Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[ElmerCamps]

I think you misunderstood my post bro. Once I take the aluminum off the trailer the 2x2 frame is already there. I am wondering if glueing 4`x8`x1" rigid blue or pink insulation on the 2x2 framing then skinning over it with titebond 2 canvas and exterior paint will work? We want a leakfree trailer. This is a 1978 19ft nomad travel trailer.

Mary, you can't drop a post like that and expect us to wait for the big reveal. I agree you're definitely due for a win, but....
I'm sure I'm not the only one who's eagerly awaiting the follow up

Welcome Elmer, good to see another BC'er on the board. I'm on the coast where it's sunny and and warm: hang in there bro !!
Your plan sounds, well...sound. Personally I've found that the coarse-thread drywall screws (meant for wood rather than steel studs) hold foam really well. They will rust out though so they need to be sealed in. If you go back and read the whole thread (that's like trying to eat an elephant, I know) that has been kicked around.

The first and biggest thing I'd suggest is to ditch the 2X framing idea. IMNSHO it's more weight and no benefit.
On my next one, I'll get A or B grade 2X4 and rip it to 1X2 and use that for framing. If you buy 1X2 at the local yard it will have been cut from the skins left over after cutting out the 2X4. To call it #2 1X2, all it needs is one true face and one true corner which is not enough for what we're doing.

FWIW, I'm using 1.5" thick foam insulated walls since my 'haunts' include X/C skiing and spring fishing around 100 Mile, willy's puddle, etc. I'm looking to be able to pre-heat the thing with a propane lantern at dinner so it's warm at bedtime.
In my 40-odd years, I've never found a greater pleasure than climbing into a real bed after a day in the bush.

OK.....besides nailing a 10lb steelhead on a 4wt flyrod on the Coldwater...

At the risk of going political (not my intent in any way), I can see why lodges are such a moneymaker - too bad they're getting such a big share of the allowable hunt next year
It's great for all of our southern friends and cousins but for many of us it's meat taken out of our freezer for folks who won't eat it.

[GPW]

EC, you have a picture f that bad boy ... 19' Nomad... It "should" work fine and likely wil be stronger than the Aluminum if done right .... and you can re use the Aluminum in some places ..over the foam/canvas...sell the rest ...

Once the Aluminum is off , you can soak the wood (all the wood ) in " the Mix" to waterproof it ...

[ElmerCamps]

Yes def won't forget the 75% ms 25% poly mix bro. Aluminum is paneled and not solid sheet. Here's a link to a guy restoring a 78 nomad so you you can see the aluminum panels. www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/1978- ... ain.23717/ I'm thinking the canvas skinned rigid insulation will be stronger less drafty and definitely much warmer then aluminum. But you folks know best so that's why I ask questions here.

PS gold digging on my claim for me begins soon so its high time I get the rig done.
PSS wishing I had a foamstream.

EC, you have a picture f that bad boy ... 19' Nomad... It "should" work fine and likely wil be stronger than the Aluminum if done right .... and you can re use the Aluminum in some places ..over the foam/canvas...sell the rest ...

Once the Aluminum is off , you can soak the wood (all the wood ) in " the Mix" to waterproof it ...

[GPW]

EC, we've been through all that before ... 88gmc had a handful but typical of commercial trailer repairs caused by leaks ... Makes you wonder why the manufacturers are incapable of making a trailer that doesn't Rot ... We humble Foamlings worked all that out quick enough long ago (except for some British fella who kept saying it would all "blow up" ... )
I think your idea will work Great, (JMHO) and even better if you can spray foam between the framing especially in the corners and around windows /doors too... That makes for some rigid structures and helps insulate ... You can't have enough insulation where you are... the more foam the better

How far do you want to take it ? .... I assume you're on a budget ...unless things "pan" out ...

[GPW]

Ps. Thinking you could change all those windows out for some double pane insulated... and less of em ... and then there's that 3M marine sealant to seal them up with .... forever... no leaks

[ElmerCamps]

Ya I was thinking about losing a few windows lol. I've got a grand to sink into this project. Got it for a song and a dance. Propane fridge n stove work. Furnace works also but it will be removed and I will heat it with a small rocket stove. I've found 3 restorations on this year trailer and all leaks in same places.

Stuff is designed to rot IMHO. The inside is immaculate so not much will be done in there just washed up n polished. Gonna put a bigger shower in and remove the sink. 2 sinks is overkill and rather extra room in shower to shampoo my bald head he he.

I never heard of the 3m marine sealant but if it sets so I gets no window leaks I will for sure use it. The gold prospecting basically pays for the trips out it fun to pass time while in the rocky mountains camping. I will post some pics of my outings.

Appreciating the help more then you know bro.

[Mary C]

Elmer, when I got to Texas my brother could not understand why I wanted to do the mix on some of the wood trim well after the third coat he was delighted that I was doing a great job. he is a sea bee, construction battalion with the Navy retired chief. he knows construction but when I got a picture of the cells of wood and then cut my picture and how it left the wood cells said there would probably be vulnerable to water. he was amazed. His attitude changed. His little sister did her homework learned some new stuff.he was very impressed with my work and the glued on canvas. Ok seal your wood at least three coats then sand and fill any little places with vinyl spackling and Great Stuff (use original it will sand for the bigger gaps ),then sand and sand, glue the canvas over the foam and wood with TBII. and paint, use a thick base coat maybe two coats then a good coat of exterior house paint. That is how I would finish it,

Mary C.

[Wobbly Wheels]

I think you misunderstood my post bro

Yep, I'll blame the wobbly pops.

What you want to do sounds good. There will definitely be some rotten framing to replace - the question is how far you want to take it. I did a few 70's RVs myself and the more I dug into them, the more bad wood I had to replace. Don't get discouraged by that though: it all goes into creating a solid foundation for the rest of your build.

With the foam stuck to the framing with some PL300 and a canvas 'sock' over the outside, I expect it'll be a pretty solid rig though probably not much lighter vs the aluminum. GPW's idea to use some aluminum sounds good, especially the 'abuse' areas like where it gets hit with road spray. There have been some issues with the canvas covering bubbling (also GPW, I think?) but, if memory serves, they settled down with no long term damage.

As for the marine sealant, 3M 5200 is definitely good stuff but I prefer Sikaflex 291 myself, especially for bedding things like windows. Since you're in BC, I can get it for you if you can't find it locally. That holds for anything marine, PM me your shopping list. Beware of buying it in a hardware store since it does have a shelf life.

[Jst83]

I think you misunderstood my post bro. Once I take the aluminum off the trailer the 2x2 frame is already there. I am wondering if glueing 4`x8`x1" rigid blue or pink insulation on the 2x2 framing then skinning over it with titebond 2 canvas and exterior paint will work? We want a leakfree trailer. This is a 1978 19ft nomad travel trailer.

That's a pretty cool idea

[Mary C]

GPW I am posting my question to you on here because others may decide to do this after their TD is built and painted. first let me say thankyou for giving me the idea and I know I should have added it before now but things got in the way. I have glued canvas to the sides, painted 3 coats of gripper and one coat of exterior house paint to the TD. I now want to add a water or rain guard or rain deflector, or rain hood or the thing over the door to keep the rain from comming into the door. I will connect it with small dowles. my question is :

Should I cut through the canvas paint? or should I just drill holes for the dowles and glue on the foam directally to the painted surface?

Mary C.

[RRJR]

I have downloaded 2 downsize programs already and I cant seem to get either of them to work my son is looking for a very very very very simple drag and drop program for me. someone on the forum gave me the old program, was on sto;em computer and I spent about 40 hours reading everyone of my post looking for it but no, I think it must have been on one of the threads that got erased at sometime. any how ...............I will find one but I can't down load pics anyway right now I don't have my cord with meI'm under 5 inches of snow at my brothers ranch right now and cant go any where I was suppose to leave Tomorrow.I can't go yet I still have a few things I want to get done............

Mary C.

Mary,
A simple way to resize and post pictures is to go to PhotoBucket and open an account. It's a free program. Upload your photos from your computer to PhotoBucket(simple drag & drop) then click on the resize button. Resize to 800 x 640 click on the save button.
On the right side of screen there is a box that says "image" click that button and it will say "image copied". Then come back here to your post and right click and paste your image directly into your post. There is no need to use the image tag at the top of this page.

Hope that helps

[GPW]

Mary , just the dowels and glue directly will be fine .... You could rough up the painted surface a bit with some sandpaper to give it some "tooth" ...

[Mary C]

Thanks GPW I plan to cover the little "addition" with canvas and paint but just thought I would fine out what you thought..


Hey RRJR I just got back from Texas and since I was broken into I can't find my cord. I will buy one soon. but thank you anyway.

Mary C.

[KCStudly]

Mary, If I understand you correctly you plan to drill a hole in the side wall for the dowel to fit into, either to hold a screw that will hold your rain diverter, or to hold the dowel that is also inserted into your diverter.

I haven't actually tried it yet, but I know from experience that the drill bit can snag fabrics. Just in case, I would use a utility knife to cut an "x" a little bigger than the dowel, then trim off the four little flaps before drilling.

[Mary C]

KC, thanks I hadn't thought of that you are right thanks for the reminder. ai will be just drilling about a half inch into the side and the same on the diverter I'm using the dowles to strenghten the contact point.

Mary C.