Propane regulator

[Mary C]

What you explained is probably what I need but I thought it would be a little easier. I will take it by the RV dealer to see what they come up with My propane dealer here in Ga may be able to help me too. Don to be honest I thought I could get a different regulator and all would be fine. I guess I will go by the Rv dealer maybe they can suggest something to confuse me even more. Thanks for your input along with everyone else. I guess my confusion is really growing. I am going to a campout this weekend so maybe someone can look at it and help too. Thanks to everyone I will wait till next week to finish up my "stove problem".

Mary C.

[noseoil]

I'm wondering about the Camp Chef stove/oven setup I bought. Would a 30# regulator supply enough pressure to run this combo unit & an extra gas appliance (water heater, lamp, etc.) if I'm using 1/2" iron pipe for the supply line? The 30# regulator is only 1/4" in and out.

Still confused about the regulator for a camp stove & the pressure it needs to supply enough volume & pressure at the inlet regulator which comes with the stove for the 1# bottles.

[capnTelescope]

Here's another possibility. I had this experience last weekend. Your 20# tank has a auto shutoff that works if propane flows out of the tank too fast. If you have a length of piping, it needs to fill with propane until it reaches tank pressure. You might be tripping the shutoff when you first open the tank valve.

Here's how to tell if that's the problem: shut the tank valve and wait half a minute. Slowly open the valve while you listen to the tank. (You can't do this in a noisy place.) You'll hear some gas hissing. If you also hear a small "tink" from the tank, you tripped the shutoff. Turn the valve off, and you will hear another "tink" when the shutoff resets. Slowly open the valve and try again. Repeat until you don't trip the shutoff. Now you can open the valve all the way. Then try to light your stove. If this has been the problem, the stove should light & work OK.

I had tested my setup at home, without all the piping, and everything worked just fine. Then I took the trailer out for its second trip. Hooked up through the trailer piping, went to make my morning coffee, and ... nothing. Not even a hiss from the stove. No coffee? No hot breakfast? Thought I was gonna die. It turned out to be the shutoff. I went from "oh what a beautiful morning" to utter despair and back again, all in ten minutes.

I hope your problem is something this simple. Good luck!

[capnTelescope]

Would a 30# regulator supply enough pressure to run this combo unit & an extra gas appliance (water heater, lamp, etc.) if I'm using 1/2" iron pipe for the supply line? The 30# regulator is only 1/4" in and out.

Yes. That's how I'm set up, and it works just fine. 20#tank -> 30psi adjustable regulator -> 3' hose -> 10 ft 1/2" pipe -> 3' hose -> 1/4" copper tubing -> stove & oven. filling up that 1/2" pipe was tripping my shutoff (See my other post above).

[capnTelescope]

Still confused about the regulator for a camp stove & the pressure it needs to supply enough volume & pressure at the inlet regulator which comes with the stove for the 1# bottles.

The 1# and the 20# both have propane in them at the same pressure, roughly 200 psi. Anything that runs off the 1# bottles has a regulator built into the part that screws into the bottle.

For fire safety, home and RV appliances run at a very low pressure, a fraction of 1 psi. These must have a pressure regulator at the tank to take things down to (IIRC) 11" water column (wc). that's where those appliances work.

I'd be willing to bet a dollar that our camp stoves would run at the low pressure if we could just plumb around the bottle regulator.

HTH!

[S. Heisley]

If an RV supply store's personnel is worth their pound o' salt, they should be able to fix you right up with exactly what you need.

[MtnDon]

The easiest off the shelf method for someone using both higher and low pressure devices would be to use an Extend-a-stay.



Screw onto cylinder. The standard RV regulator fits to the brass Acme threaded end and a camp stove hose attaches to the brass capped tee fitting and goes to the camp stove regulator. As I see it, MaryC's issue is she has the black pipe plumbed front to rear and is using only the devices that are meant for running off 1 lb. bottles. That would have to be adapted to the high pressure fitting and have to be gas tite upto the full pressure of an unregulated tank. FYI, the safety pressure release on a 20# cylinder is around 300 PSI.

For someone not running any std RV appliances, none of those 11" WC things, this is handy as it provides two of the higher pressure "camp stove" type of connections with unregulated pressure.



Both of those retain the safety features of the Acme nut.


If trying to make a campstove work on the 11" WC pressure of a standard RV propane regulator the jet(s) in the stove would need replacing. As they come the orifice is very small as the pressure is higher. It is the high pressure through that small orifice that makes our camp stoves roar while the burners in an RV or at home hiss very quietly if at all (low pressure big orifice). I think a conversion could be done if a simple and safe method of eliminating the camp stove regulator could be found. And new jet(s) installed.

[capnTelescope]

I think Mary should first find out it the auto shutoff thing I described is the problem. If it is, then it's just a matter of technique and doesn't cost a cent to work around.

The auto shutoff would give a low flame like she described.

$0.02

Those are some interesting goodies you showed us, MtnDon. I'm going to check them out.

[MtnDon]

I think Mary should first find out it the auto shutoff thing I described is the problem

Very true. It is easy to have that happen if there is a length of pipe to fill.

Those adapters can be very handy at times.

[Mary C]

I did not get a lot of information at camp out but will have an opportunity to talk to a propane guy next week. Now to the question no it didn't cut off we left it barely on while we checked it out and we tried to boil some water. My propane friend suggested the adjustable one or one that will allow more pressure.

[noseoil]

Mary, I wrote to Coleman about the regulators they use on their propane stove/oven combos, to see what the regulator needs for the pressure inlet. Also asked about the actual input at the stove (after the regulator) and what the pressure is to run the burners.

At this point I just have their standard reply that they got my email, but no answer yet about my questions. Seems like a simple enough question to ask of them, but I'm not sure they will touch it due to liability issues & the way things are in consumer law now. Will post their reply if it comes to me.

[noseoil]

Mary, here's their reply. As you can see, they offer no information on their products. Sorry, tim

"Hello Tim

Thank you for contacting Coleman. I would be more than happy to assist you today.
Coleman appliances are not designed to be hooked to the low-pressure propane systems found on RVs. Coleman appliances require higher pressure than is put out by RV systems. Unfortunately, we cannot recommend making any alterations to our products and would not be able to give out information on how to do so. Our propane appliances can be hooked up to 20 lb tanks using a hose and adapter, but that is all we would offer."

[Mary C]

I have had no chance to work on this problem but ........You were right on about product information and the answer being led by product liability and basically Money. I will be getting to the RV dealer later this month, it is 50 miles away and I will plan some other things Side shopping trips too. the hose and adapter that coleman mentions has some type of regulator too. I will come up with the right ideas!! I now feel that I am more informed and and will be able to get the job done.

Mary C.