New 7x14 Toy Hauler Build

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

John, I like your inside barn door lock idea. I cannot do that as I will have a false wall 18" in from the back.
But with my egress window, I am less concerned of being locked in.

Hi Bob,
I am not too worried about the second escape route, as my trailer is only 10 feet long and haven't got the rear doors finished yet. However, the cots came in and they look pretty good ... they are really not too uncomfortable as they are ... but I did order two mattresses from "Unclaimed Freight" in Milaca, MN.
http://www.milacaunclaimedfreight.com/

They are a distributor for the "Ice Castle" ice fishing trailers (awfully nice looking trailers) and sell lots of stuff from tools to trailers. The mattresses (trailer foam mattresses) were special order 77" x 28" x 4" thick (the only thickness offered) and covered for $75 ea. I laid down on one (on a board) in their trailer and did not feel the board ... so, I decided to go ahead and order them and if I feel like I need more cushion later, I'll add a mattress pad.


I am going to make a couple of quick hinges from modified gate hinges (tacky, but quick and inexpensive) and see if that will work ... I'll add pics when I start on them ...

[lrrowe]

That is not good news about the cots. If I were to get one, I was thinking of using it for a bunk. And a bunk bed does not too much head room to add a thick mattress. But kids can sleep on anything.

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

That is not good news about the cots. If I were to get one, I was thinking of using it for a bunk. And a bunk bed does not too much head room to add a thick mattress. But kids can sleep on anything.

Bob,
I could make bunks each cot is 17" legs, 1-1/4" bed, and whatever the mattress is (in my case 4") [22-1/4" x 2 = 44-1/2" for both beds from the floor] and still use the 4" thick pad or less as the cots are not too bad with the burlap base. I do not want bunks in my trailer as a 6x10, it would be pretty cramped; but who knows, I may need to add a bunk on these ... but it is not in my current plans.

[lrrowe]

In my case, I need about 18" for a cooler like the Coleman Extreme series to slide under it. Then whether it is the Coleman cot like yours or my planned plywood on, the bed platform of 1 and 1/2 " is about right. I am thinking my bedding will be 6" so that is a total height of 25 1/2". I think 36" is about the right height for an adult to sit on the lower cot and have head clearance to the upper bunk. So that puts the lower bunk up 61 1/2".

My ceiling is about 74" and that leaves 12 1/2" inches for the upper cot and the bedding. I guess that is an issue. To provide more room for a kid to sleep there will come from the allowed 36" for the adult. I think this needs some work on my part.

[zroadhouse]

Here is a close-up shot of the face frame. I really liked how the interaction between the dye and grain in the soft maple turned out.

[zroadhouse]

However, the cots came in and they look pretty good ... they are really not too uncomfortable as they are ... but I did order two mattresses from "Unclaimed Freight" in Milaca, MN.

They are a distributor for the "Ice Castle" ice fishing trailers (awfully nice looking trailers) and sell lots of stuff from tools to trailers. The mattresses (trailer foam mattresses) were special order 77" x 28" x 4" thick (the only thickness offered) and covered for $75 ea. I laid down on one (on a board) in their trailer and did not feel the board ... so, I decided to go ahead and order them and if I feel like I need more cushion later, I'll add a mattress pad.

I'm definitely looking forward to the point in my build where I get to build out the beds. For now I am going with a pair of camping cots I picked up at Dick's Sporting Goods:
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3179686

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

I'm definitely looking forward to the point in my build where I get to build out the beds. For now I am going with a pair of camping cots I picked up at Dick's Sporting Goods:
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3179686

Hi ZRoadhouse,
I used the Coleman cots (two), in the trailer for the last year and a half, similar to the add attached. I bought them at Wally World for around $50 each then, but they are a bit springy for me -- Spring suspension with a 1" mattress ... they were okay for the wife and she slept fine on them, but for me ... they were about 24" x 68 or 70" and only 14" off the floor ... They are just too narrow, too short and, too close to the floor! I'm 6' tall, weigh more than 250#, and over 60 ... Just not comfortable and too difficult for an old fat man to get out of ...

http://www.amazon.com/2000009891-Colema ... leman+cots

The Military Surplus cot are 17" tall and are much firmer ... I am expecting a better sleep with the 4" mattress ... I am starting to use the trailer more by myself and with my wife ... AND really want a good night's rest without a backache in the morning


Good luck and I would like to see what you end up building and will be using ... Happy Sleeping !!

[zroadhouse]

Time to post an update! I've made some good progress on the kitchen area in the trailer this month. The cabinet base is assembled and installed. I cut out holes in the top for the cook top and sink and hand pump.









It took me a while to figure out the plumbing for the propane (see http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=62984 for all the details). I'm very happy with the results!







While I was doing that, I had some more goodies arrive! A/C (Mach 3 Power Plus), Fantastic Fan 2250, and water cans (Scepter 20L MWC in blue and black).



Today I tested out the hand pump faucet with a little tubing to the water cans. I'm looking into a more permanent solution now.




Next steps: wire up A/C and D/C power in the cabinet, figure out shelves and drawers, power center?, install of the icebox - then wrap it up with face frames and doors! At that point I may take a break from building for a while and enjoy what I've done.

I'll be taking the trailer to the shop on Monday to have them do the A/C and fantastic fan.

[lrrowe]

Zroadhouse, that all looks great. The cabinet approach came out looking good. I think I know how you are going to finish them. Will see when you post more later.

For the yellow flexible gas pipe, how did you get it to the correct length? I have seen the pipe in Lowes, but I am not sure how the connectors go on them.

And I think I might copy your water and grey water cans approach. That size takes up less footprint then the squatty (is there such a word?) ones I have.

[zroadhouse]

Zroadhouse, that all looks great. The cabinet approach came out looking good. I think I know how you are going to finish them. Will see when you post more later.

For the yellow flexible gas pipe, how did you get it to the correct length? I have seen the pipe in Lowes, but I am not sure how the connectors go on them.

And I think I might copy your water and grey water cans approach. That size takes up less footprint then the squatty (is there such a word?) ones I have.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to finishing them as well. I have some ideas in mind for edging and black splash. The face frame will be done in the same style as the closet.

I bought the 3' length with 3/8" flare connectors. Together with the 2' black pipe coming through the floor it came out just about perfect. I measured everything quite a few times before cutting/drilling/etc.

I really like these water cans - they are very sturdy. There's a seller on eBay that makes sink fittings for them - haven't decided yet whether or not I will just buy them or build my own.

[nunrleft]

For the yellow flexible gas pipe, how did you get it to the correct length? I have seen the pipe in Lowes, but I am not sure how the connectors go on them.

He used an appliance connector with built in fittings. You're referring to CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) which is a totally different animal. You wouldn't want to use CSST in an RV. It's very susceptible to static electricity and has very strict installation requirements. In fact, the big box stores are only supposed to sell it to people who have a current "installer's certification card" issued by the CSST manufacturer.

[lrrowe]

Thanks....did not know that.

[Padilen]

It was used in my home and the only recommendation I can give it for home use is it was easy for installer.

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Zroadhouse,
The trailer is look'n good!!
I can't comment much on plastic piping except that I don't like plastic pipe and used copper tubing (Only about a 3-1/2 foot run of 3/8" tubing) and placed stainless with rubber grommet clamps at about every 12 - 16". I used a bender for all bends ... this worked in my gas system, but the tank was on the tongue and the galley on the front wall...
Looking good and keep up the good work....

[zroadhouse]

Thanks for the comments! I'm a bit frustrated at the moment as I can't work on the trailer right now. It's at the shop having the rooftop A/C and fantastic fan installed.

This has given me time to finish planning out the kitchen cabinet face frame, drawers, doors and electrical. With any luck I'm just a few days work away from completing "phase 1" of the project!