5x10 renovation and build

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5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:27 am

With the fan installed, the next thing on the list was the marker lights for the trailer. Crawling around under the finished trailer running wire and drilling holes through the frame was not fun at all but I needed the lights so it was a necessary evil. The lights add just a nice little touch of style to the trailer and help make it legal to the road rules. :)
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Last edited by inthewoods on Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:39 am

The table mount was cut in half and then mounted to the right side of the trailer.

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The mating half of the rail was installed on the side of the table top I made last summer. I also trimmed out the table top with some Maple strips to finish the edges nice.

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The table support leg is an as-is find from Ikea. It's not my ideal choice but I had it laying around so I figured why not. I also made a small carrier to hold the leg in place when the table is stowed in the galley. here is the table with the leg stowed.

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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:42 am

The table stows on top of the cooler in the galley.

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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:42 am

Looking good. I looked up that stove and it seems to be a very nice piece of kit! :thumbsup:

This one? http://partnersteel.com/LG05.htm
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:00 am

Next I finished off the trim on the fold out table that will hold our camp stove. I used the same maple trim as the last table. It finished up nice and holds the stove well.

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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:01 am

KC yea that looks like the stove. Just posted a photo of it.
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:14 am

I'm pretty much caught up now in progress of the build. Last night I was trimming, sanding, rounding over edges and gluing up the joints on the last of the galley cabinets and drawers. I decided on making a cabinet that is raised from the counter top so I would have a place to stow the camp stove under it when it is not being used. The cabinet will have two doors when it is complete. The cabinet is about 24" wide x 12" deep and 11" of interior height.

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Like the rest of the build so far it is 3/4" and 1/2" birch plywood.
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:21 am

Between the cabinet and the cooler will be a set of three 12" deep drawers. I finally bought a small table saw a month ago and it made building the drawers and cabinets so so so much easier. Here is a quick unrelated pic of the table saw and workbench setup. As well as the drawer photos.

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The drawer fronts will have the matching finger pull hole that my other drawers have.
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Sat Jun 06, 2015 10:13 pm

Yesterday I finished up the three drawers and the cabinet and gave them some nice shine with glossy poly. I also had the time to get the cabinet doors cut and hung on the hinges. The doors are now hung and it's all installed in the galley. Tonight and tomorrow I'm finishing the doors with some glossy shine.

I'm really happy with the results and I think the storage will work well for my wife and I.

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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby KCStudly » Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:44 pm

Looks great! :thumbsup:
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:31 pm

I feel like today I was able to cross a threshold. Perhaps it was because I tackled the last task that really prevents us from using the teardrop. Yesterday evening I began the process of sealing the galley hatch hinge. The original builder of this teardrop used a large aluminum piano hinge and covered it with a small strip of PVC tarp material. The strip of material was too small though and he couldn't secure it well. Here is a picture of the before..

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5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:49 pm

This evening I covered over the old pvc with a new much larger strip of pvc. I picked up a strip of white 18oz pvc tarp material from a heavy duty tarp manufacturer. Bought some 1" x 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar and a tube of sealant. After 4 or 5 hours of slow work I now have the new PVC in place and strapped down with the aluminum and the edges nicely sealed up with sealant. I still need to trim back the flaps that hang off the sides of the roof. Here's the current way she sits now. ...
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I'm not sure yet how long to leave the excess PVC. I've read a few people in these forums suggest it should be long but I'm not sure how far to leave it. Right now there is about 5in overhanging.

I wondered about getting some sticky backed Velcro and velcro'ing the flaps down while driving to keep spray and water out preventing them from tearing in the wind.

Anyone have any suggestions on that front? How long should I leave them and should I worry about the flapping while driving?
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby noseoil » Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:41 am

Not sure what the "right" answer is on this one, but here's what I think. It needs to be bigger than the side panels to shed water. If it's too big, it will look like Dumbo in flight while driving down the road & could shred & tear loose at freeway speeds.

I would trim it into a curve so there's enough of a flap to stick out past the side and make some type of attachment point on the side while driving. You could use velcro, or maybe an upholstery shop could give you a few snaps like they use for tonneau covers on the back of a pickup truck. The snaps could work to hold things in place while driving & give you a (mostly) waterproof edge. The cloth could be renewed if necessary from time to time, depending on how well it holds up to the sun & wind.
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby KCStudly » Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:30 am

I plan on using this very same method with EPDM rubber. My roof will have a 3/4 radius to the wall face, so no corner trim. I am planing to leave the forward cap strip (that holds the rubber strip to the hinge) long and form that to the radius so that it extends down the wall enough to cover the front edge of the hatch. At the rear of the flap I plan to trim that on a radius like Noseoil suggests and leave the rear cap trim shorter, just on the flat part of the hatch, not wrapping the corner radius. I am hopeful that the rubber will pent up when the hatch is open to direct runoff off the sides, and that when closed the excess material will be taut enough not to flap.

The Velcro on the trailing edge would be a good solution if needed to prevent flapping.

In your application (square corner roof to wall) what happens if you hold the front edge of the flap against the wall and open the hatch? If there is no added tension or strange buckles, maybe you could add a permanent piece of trim to fix the leading edge to the side wall.
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Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
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Re: 5x10 renovation and build

Postby inthewoods » Tue Jun 09, 2015 9:03 am

Thanks for the suggestions... I hadn't thought of snaps before. I've got a couple long days at work coming up so I won't get a chance to look at how the fabric moves when the hatch is opened till later this week. It would be nice to fix it down permanently with trim.... Thinking....
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