Bread-loaf build thread

[Fred Trout]

Got annoyed at the chocks I was using and decided to make 2 sets myself. Someone out there may find these useful & they were cheap & quick to build. 4x4, Chain & turnbuckle on one side and a bungee on the back side, so goes on quick and stays put. Gorilla taped the turnbuckle after the chocks were setup tight.

[pchast]

Good idea!

Thanks for sharing.

[Fred Trout]

Welcome. Neglected to say, the bungee cord is a standard one with hooks & connects to a protruding screw on each backside wood block -- placed so the cord is somewhat tight. There is almost zero wiggle room so the trailer is solid.

Edit: couple of pix of the work on the roof. Decided to route out a drip edge channel that can be canvassed over & tried the fill with a piece of foam strip technique suggested by KCStudly, which works great.

[Fred Trout]

Best of my Bloopers Chapter One
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[KCStudly]

Don't even get me started. To paraphrase: "My magnifying glass is bigger than yours."

Did you see the one where the wind blew up thru the eaves of the loft, ruffled my plastic drape wall, knocked my side wall core over, which fell and just barely caught the caster on the shop vac, cracking the top of the wall foam like a twig over your knee? Not a difficult repair, but sobering none the less to think that all of our efforts can turn south as quickly as a gust of wind.

Have you designed yourself into a corner yet? How about painted yourself into a corner?

[Fred Trout]

Heh, but the wind is not user error - unless you left the door open or some such. So far, no acts of nature have interfered with my capacity to generate errors. But I am only one month into the build so it's early days still.

Nope, there is no corner, everything is round, like a spoon. And there is no spoon !!

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In other news, summer has come in like a lion. From lows in the low 40's and highs in the 50's last week, we hit 85+ degrees today and BIG blue sky as you may have noticed from the earlier pictures. If the monsoons stop, the lawn will burn out & I can stop mowing hopefully.

Been designing the front angles and the rear barn doors in my head while sitting in the temp assembled TD last weekend. Will be standing up the walls permanently sometime in the next few days after I get everything (wiring, roof fan cutout & prep, bulkhead re-fitted, etc) ready. Then it's time to inner-canvas the roof and do the inner-wall overlap with latex paint on the flat and assemble. Major opportunity for out-of-square and crooked in my future !!

[Fred Trout]

Would like some help / suggestions on how to build my rear swinging door(s).

Total inside width is 49+", and I was thinking of putting a few inches of foam, then gluing a routed 2x2 frame around the opening and covering with canvas overlapping the wood.

Door(s) was going to be built from wood framed foam all around the perimeter (w/wood block lock inset) 1.75" thick to allow room for gasket. So, one door or two ? (was going to do two). If two doors should I put in a central post for more positive pressure on gasket & easier lock setup ? Was planning on normal SS entry door hinges applied on outside surface or mortised. Have no clue which would be better.

Thanks for any help at all - never built anything like this before.

[GPW]

Maybe just some toggle bolts on one door to keep it shut, to close the other door against , no center post needed , or likely wanted...

[KCStudly]

Yeah, just a backer on the inside edge of the door that you would always have to open last and close first. Maybe over toggle clamps or draw latches to securely pull that closed into the seal, yet still allow easy adjustment of the seal compression.

We have that style of cabinet doors in our home kitchen and it takes a little getting used to. You can't just open the left hand door. When you want something in the left hand side you have to open both doors, and then you have to close the left door first; so make sure that you prioritize the things you will want most often in to the side that opens easiest.

On the hinges, although a little more complicated to do with the canvas skin (you probably won't be able to get the canvas to flow into a hinge mortise), I like the idea of mortising the hinges because it goes a long way toward maintaining alignment and supports the hinge from twisting on the screws. This may not be an issue for such a light door, but you never know who's going to hang on them like a big ape. In theory at least...

[GPW]

just FYI , here’s a pic(s) of the doors on our All steel cargo trailer ( now being used for storage ) ... Really simple and it works Fine ...

Note . on our FS door we didn’t mortise the hinges , but did have to put a strip of thin foam sealer along the hinge line to keep the weather out ..... No problems so far ... and it’s been through some torrential rain storms already , no leaks ...
On Foamie #1 ( Now “Nookery”) , the door hinge is on the outside , works fine ...

[GPW]

FS door pic ...

[Fred Trout]

Thanks for the great ideas. OK, two doors, put on canvas first, SS piano or knuckle hinged applied on top of canvas (might get a mortise underneath canvas to work with depression passing thru - will test), no center post needed, Toggle bolts to hold inside door, some swivel lever action lock to hold outside door, inside positive stops with gasket are ok, including one on lock side of toggle closed door.

"Garage" Lock perhaps like this one that can compress as it turns



What do you call that outside edge molding, GPW ? gotta know what to look/ask for

[GPW]

You know , that’s a good question... But here’s what it looks like up close (see pic ) ... seems a simple combination of things, looks homemade The middle seam is just a piece of AL flat bar stock .. .... the "old man" (somebody’s Dad as we heard it) that made the All Steel Cargo Trailer was pretty ingenious ... Clever fellow ...  it’s a STOUT trailer (built like Army Tank) , and a bit heavy ( all steel eh ? )


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkyVQTX9CbU We thought this was pretty “close” .... just sub foam for the inner door and skin the outside , everything else is pretty applicable ...

[Fred Trout]

Thanks for the closeup, helps tremendously; I was planning on snorkeling the trailer sales showrooms & co-opting all their experience. Looks like he used typical interlocking "J"-molding for the seal, and "L" or "T" molding on top of an end cap and bar/flat stock for the doors overlap. Yeah, overbuilt same as all of use seem to do.

Just got back from HD & local lumber yard with 1/2 depth electrical boxes, paper-corner molding for outside foam edges and 2" flashing for Fantastic fan cutout, j-molding for door stop if I decide to use that there or could use it someplace else. Oh, AND last piece of 2" foam for front construction and or back doors area - not quite enough scraps for all.

Back to the salt mine

[Fred Trout]

Got the roof panels closer to completion:
- panels cut to finished size
- roof support spline completed (hot wire cut)
- electrical box for fan & LED light drilled & glued in place
- fan cutout completed & flashing support roughed in - still needs to be final fitted, secured in place w rivets & gripper
- sides ready for final fitting & dry-wall guide screws roughed in

Lots of Pix: