BEULA - a foam Winter Warrior with aero front

[Wobbly Wheels]

Two ways:
1. Look below the bottom right corner of the last post on a page and click on the page number you want to go to.
2. Look at the url for this page in the address bar above:
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=63179&start=90
The "90" at the end is the post number the page starts at. Changing that number will let you jump a lot of pages at once.

[Fred Trout]

A 3rd way: On the "Foamies" page (or any other index page), each thread shows the latest post with a postee name and a little turned edge page at the right. If you hover the cursor over that turned page icon, it will say "View the latest post" --- click it and it takes you to the last post shown there of the thread. You can then go back a page using the page number, previous, etc. as needed.

[cpowell243]

Maybe it's my browser settings, but I can only move 4 pages at a time. How do I long in and go directly to page 66 of a 187 page thread? Not seeing the url at the top of the page. Limited skills in this area (and others). But I'm good at cutting styrofoam into little pieces.

[Wobbly Wheels]

Not seeing the url at the top of the page.

If you're going to type in a web address manually (google, etc), it's where you would type it.
It's the red outline and may be a little different depending on your browser

[KCStudly]

Re: wooden interior panels. I did mine mostly for the traditional look and warm feeling, but the added strength is welcome, too. I split my wall foam at the top corner of the door simply because it was easier to handle and get the two pieces to fit around the door surround frame.

Re: Going to a specific pg of a thread. Click on the "Pg x of x", over write the page that you want to go to and hit enter.

[cpowell243]

Thanks KC - that did it - so much for that excuse.
Ch

[cpowell243]

I am traveling and away from the BEULA project for a few days - physcaiily but not mentally, as I'm sure you all can understand.

When I return my plan is to glue the walls and door frames to the pillars, then temporarily attach walls to the nose to get an accurate read on where the wheel wells need to be cut out of the walls. After cutting the wheel wells I can then re-attach walls permanently to the nose and begin covering with canvas (I think).

Before going further,I am wrestling with the wall attachment at the wheels wells. Glen and Foamstream avoided this problem via smaller wheels and higher clearance, but I have about 10" of fender above the floor.

My metal fenders have metal plate welded down to the frame on the inside of the fender to create a weather-proof seal. If I can attach the wall to the top of the fender I can cover the portion of the metal fender that is exposed to the interior. Hope that makes sense. Challenge is then to create a weather-tight seal where the fender meets the wall. Would it work to fold the canvas under the foam, then glue the wall directly to the metal fender using construction adhesive (or something better)? Would it work better to glue 1X2 to the bottom of the 2" polystyrene than canvas and glue to the fender? Other options?
Th - Ch

[KCStudly]

If you are building the cabin separately to be married to the trailer later (recommended), my suggestion would be to build out and cover the fender well in the cabin/floor assembly independently from the existing metal fender. The metal will grow and shrink at a different thermal rate than the canvas, wood and foam, and there may also be flexing between the cabin and fender; all of which could compromise whatever weather proofing or adhesive that you would use to try and bond to the steel.

If you fit the boxed section of the cabin fender recess closely to the metal fender (just allowing for the thickness of your canvas and some sealer) you can still seal between them to try and keep moisture and debris from collecting in between, but at least you won't have to worry about moisture finding a way thru a chink into the cabin.

[cpowell243]

KC,
If I'm getting this - cut pieces - maybe 1" polystyrene - to create a box slightly larger than the wheel well, then glue the pieces together, then glue to the box directly to the floor and the inside of the wall (at bottom of wheel well cut), then canvas, then seal the gap with caulk? Would I need canvas cover for all of the outside surfaces of the polystyrene box? Any thoughts on how I could make the box strong enough to sit on? Glue ply to the top?
Th

[GPW]

Do we need a drawing? Just a foam box over the metal fender... and you probably do want to skin both sides ... and No , we wouldn’t sit on it ...

ps. if you seal the box to the fender then it’s no longer “removable” ...

[cpowell243]

Glen,
All helpful. Makes sense to avoid attaching directly to the metal fender. Since the fender cover will need to double as a bench in our changing room, I think I'll have to build a box with 3/4" ply and cover inside with 1" styrofoam, attach exterior wall to the edge of the 1", then cover styrofoam with canvas. Entire structure will then be removable.
Ch

[cpowell243]

Back to work.
Decide to build wheel well covers since I need to have accurate measurement for cutting of wheel well notch in walls. Since I want a bench on both sides, I used 3/4" plywood to create a bench and then lined the ply with polystyrene to insulate and create glue surface for canvas.

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Outside view:

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[cpowell243]

Decided to add my hard points since goal is to add wire and cover interior with canvas before adding ceiling.



Since handles with need to support full weight, I decided to bolt through the polystyrene rather than rely only on the Great Stuff. I added 2" wood washers cut with a hole saw and recessed T-nuts into the hard points on the inside. Will use flat head bolts 1/4" bolts that sit flush with end of T-nuts and cover all with spackle before covering interior.

[cpowell243]

Next comes the pillars, which will stabilize the trailer laterally. Pillars have 5/16" dowels sticking out of both sides to secure door frame and rear boy. Metal brackets are screwed to the top on each side for attachment of the main horizontal piece that will also hinge the hatch.

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Next step will involve gluing the bottom and top pieces together with GS, cutting channels for wiring, then attaching to the pillars.

Comments welcome.

[cpowell243]

It was finally time to glue the three wall pieces on each side together. I decided to add a 3/4" x 1" strip to the "nest" where the hatch will sit. Wanted a solid surface that I could screw an 1" wide aluminum strip to where the hatch meets the main body. This aluminum strip will receive a D-channel rubber molding strip to creat waterproof barrier (I hope).

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