BEULA - a foam Winter Warrior with aero front

[Wobbly Wheels]

I think skylights are a great idea. I built up a curb for mine (like a residential skylight) so that I'm not relying on sealant to keep the water out.

[cpowell243]

Decided against the skylights after talking to the parts guys about cabover window problems. Mine would've taken the 70mph force since slightly facing front.
Started creating 3/4" ceiling panels and installed the panels up to the hinge point. Covered the panels with bedsheet - seemed like an easy way to get foam covered. I'm using two layers of 3/4" to make for easier bending and avoid kerfing.

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Next comes wiring for the b\cabin light and fan, then top layer, then canvas over the entire front/top. Then the dreaded hatch.

[GPW]

Pre-covering those panels sure makes it easy ... and I secretly think that the canvas to foam join is better than a straight foam to foam join .... can't prove that , but it sure is a good excuse to do all the inner covering before assembly ... especially the ceiling .... Anyone who's done overhead covering can attest to the difficulty of that task .

[S. Heisley]

Decided against the skylights after talking to the parts guys about cabover window problems. Mine would've taken the 70mph force since slightly facing front.
Started creating 3/4" ceiling panels and installed the panels up to the hinge point. Covered the panels with bedsheet - seemed like an easy way to get foam covered. I'm using two layers of 3/4" to make for easier bending and avoid kerfing.

Great idea!

[mikeschn]

Are you planning on going back and covering the spars with bedsheet too?

How did that foam bend once you put the bedsheet on it?

Mike...

[RAYVILLIAN]

Aahh yes the dread hatch. I built my first on the trailer. Just make the sides clamp them to the trailer and build the top. the second was done on a table with alot of measuring and worrying but both times it worked. Just take your time. When you get your sides built it's time to check to see if your back wall geometry works though. Your doing great Charlie.

Mike I've put canvass on 1/2 inch foam and bent into a 8 inch radius but I've never tried it with 3/4 inch. Should work about the same just not as tight a radius.

Gary

[cpowell243]

The spars will stay white. The ceiling panels only needed to bend n the corners where the first panel met the nose. Others just liad flar in the gap. Today I installed wiring in grooves cut into the top of the first layer, then glued another layer of 3/4" on top of the first layer with GS. Tomorrow I trim the corners and start adding canvas.
So far so good - seems very solid with the pillar, spars, and ceiling panels.
Charlie

[GPW]

Yep, so far, so good !!! It will get even more solid as it all comes together.

[cpowell243]

Several hours of filling and sanding on the nose-wall curve - 5 layers of beaded/poly butting up against 2" poly. GS sanding... Finishing off with vinyl spackle and sanding today, then canvas. I'm more of function guy so a few indentations or rough spots won't matter to me. It'll look good from 15 feet. Main goal is reduced wind resistance.
Q - since I am installing a Fantastic Fan in front of the hinge point, does the flange go in top of the canvas or under the canvas?
Th - Ch

[starleen2]

Several hours of filling and sanding on the nose-wall curve - 5 layers of beaded/poly butting up against 2" poly. GS sanding... Finishing off with vinyl spackle and sanding today, then canvas. I'm more of function guy so a few indentations or rough spots won't matter to me. It'll look good from 15 feet. Main goal is reduced wind resistance.
Q - since I am installing a Fantastic Fan in front of the hinge point, does the flange go in top of the canvas or under the canvas?
Th - Ch

The placement of the fan has me worried a bit - it is right after the hinge area. I've had the ladybug in quite a few rain showers and the water that pours off the hatch will come to the hinge area and need to drain somewhere - usually off to sides. My hope is that you take that into consideration now. A simple moving of the opening to the next spar placement might avoid a lot of unnecessary "engineering". To waterproof a flexible hinge next to hole in roof (basically) might be asking for trouble down the line

[cpowell243]

Unfortunately, the hole is already cut and wired. Since my hatch will be much lighter than the plywood version, I'm planning to use a living hinge (i.e., solid plastic) that should be watertight as long as the silicone be under each side holds (??).

[starleen2]

The hinge part does not worry me - just make sure you put extra sealant around the fan shroud - maybe Gary (RAYVILLAN)will chime in about how he did his vent / fan - I remember it being really close to the hinge area with some sort of rain deflector.

[cpowell243]

I hope those of you following my porgress an appreaicte that it takes some gutsto post pics like these. Surfaces actually smooth to touch despite horrid looks. You'll be the only ones who know once it's covered.
Ch
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[cpowell243]

Meant to add that the bottom half will be covered with 1/16" aluminum diamond plate.

[GPW]

They all look like that till they’re primed or covered... Then they become beautiful !!!