Albuoy's Teardrop build

[Albuoy]

Any and all criticism/thoughts are welcome

I only had enough time for this this weekend. But I layed out the frame, and decided to add a box on the front to install the A/C unit, that way I can coat it with roofing tar, and let the condensation drip to the ground instead of inside the trailer and having to worry about rot and draining.

[KCStudly]

Making the decision to build and jumping in is a big step. Congratulations on that.

Suggestions: Do a lot more research before you go any further. 2x4 construction is starting off on the wrong step toward an overly heavy build. The appeal of cheap stud lumber is hard to get past at first, and we are all familiar with it, but if there is anyway that you can switch to 1x's or rip down those 2x's you will be happier in the end. The weight starts adding up from the very beginning and it is far harder to shed weight in the end than it is to start thinking lighter from the beginning. Think airplane not house (... or tank). The unity of the whole cabin assembly will provide more than enough strength to your build w/o any need to go so heavy.

Also, I don't see any sign of a trailer there. It is advisable to have the trailer in hand to confirm dimensions and fit as you go. You don't necessarily have to build on the trailer (I'm not), but it is a good idea to have it and confirm everything will fit later when the time comes.

From start to finish the amount of time, energy and money invested in these things is not trivial, so be sure you plan well and have a realistic idea of what all is involved.

[Albuoy]

Making the decision to build and jumping in is a big step. Congratulations on that.

Suggestions: Do a lot more research before you go any further. 2x4 construction is starting off on the wrong step toward an overly heavy build. The appeal of cheap stud lumber is hard to get past at first, and we are all familiar with it, but if there is anyway that you can switch to 1x's or rip down those 2x's you will be happier in the end. The weight starts adding up from the very beginning and it is far harder to shed weight in the end than it is to start thinking lighter from the beginning. Think airplane not house (... or tank). The unity of the whole cabin assembly will provide more than enough strength to your build w/o any need to go so heavy.

Also, I don't see any sign of a trailer there. It is advisable to have the trailer in hand to confirm dimensions and fit as you go. You don't necessarily have to build on the trailer (I'm not), but it is a good idea to have it and confirm everything will fit later when the time comes.

From start to finish the amount of time, energy and money invested in these things is not trivial, so be sure you plan well and have a realistic idea of what all is involved.

Thanks for the advice!! I figured a good base would support what I was liking to build, from there I was going to go smaller. The trailer it's going on, has 2 inch wide frame, and I wanted it to pair. Especially when bolting to a trailer. With the 1 inch, do you worry about it splitting?

As far as the trailer, it is on backorder at the moment, however I went and measured the trailer and all aspects of it. And put them on my blue print. So I know the measurements are correct.

But this is the exact feedback that I am looking for, and going forward I will definitely take it to heart.

[KCStudly]

Think about it this way; rather than the base supporting the cabin, the cabin stiffens the base. The cabin, being a large box section will be very rigid and stiff, even if built very lightly, because all of the fibers are connected and are spread out over a very larger space. The cabin will be the beam that stiffens the relatively flexible trailer base, not the other way around.

I bet you can lift one corner of your current wood frame and it will give quite a bit before the diagonally opposite corner shifts. This will not be the case once the cabin is formed. So the trailer frame is a relatively 2D structure lacking rigidity in the z-axis, as is your wooden frame. Only when you start building in the vertical axis (up) will you start building rigidity, so it doesn't matter how beef you go at the bottom, all of the strength comes from the depth of the cabin, and it just doesn't need to be that fat. Since the cabin will be so tall, it will have the inherent strength needed even when all of the little composite pieces are relatively light. The strength comes from the geometry of the assembled structure, not any one member.

Read the build threads, read the construction techniques, if you want tips on building lighter there is a lot of good info in the foamie build forum. Take your time, this is a big project and it is better to figure out what not to do before you have already done it. There is a huge wealth of experience here to share and plenty of people who have shared what has worked and what they would have liked to have done differently.

I'm on my first build. The only 2x4's in my build are some small blocks in the floor where the blind nuts are anchored to hold the floor to the frame, and in the doors where they are hogged out for door latches to imbed.

It would be much more efficient to add some extra 1x gusset plates for screws to 1x framing, than it is to build the whole thing from 2x. Sure, it's a few more pieces and a few more joints, but you are building an assembly, not a monolith.

[noseoil]

Have to agree with KC on this one. Lighter is better on a small trailer as far as wear & tear on tires & bearings, gas mileage & also cost in general. I work in the construction industry & have applied some of what I've learned to my trailer build.

One example is the floor decking. The usual spacing for roof joists or rafters is 2' on center. Why is this? It's because usually, 1/2" plywood or OSB is used for the deck material. This material needs to be supported every 2' to carry the load from the roofing, wind gusts, snow loads or all of the above while a rather large plumber is tromping on the roof system while carrying his tool box to work on something (apologies to large plumbers everywhere). Since hopefully you aren't having some of these loads on your build, that amount of structure isn't really necessary.

If you use 1x2's laid flat and spaced at 1' on center, you can cut the decking material down to some 1/4" underlayment on top & 1/8" on the bottom, the type sold in home center stores. The 1x2's must be clear lumber or they can break at a knot (I used 3/4" poplar ripped on a table saw), but this floor system is plenty strong enough to hold a mattress while you sleep on it without any problems. Glue up this kind of panel & it will be light & strong!

Sorry to second guess your build so early in the process, but it might save you some weight in the future. Best, tim

[Albuoy]

Don't apologize for the advice, believe me it is all being taken in. I have looked through several builds, and seen things that I would like to do, and some I've decided to stay away from.

Me personally, I am a fan of 2x4 when it comes to support. However I realize now the aspects of the cabin as a whole supporting the frame. This was the only 2x4's I had in my design bluprint. As far as lifting the frame, there is very little if any give. Believe me this is built solid. Unfortunately I am very limited on tools, so I am unable to run things through a tablesaw.

I do want the advice of the members on this board, as when it comes to the electrical, I have great ideas, but don't exactly know how to put it together.

[wyrdone]

Unfortunately I am very limited on tools, so I am unable to run things through a tablesaw.

I would highly suggest getting a table saw if you can swing the couple hundred for one. I have a Ryobi 10" that I purchased over 10 years ago for like $150 that has faithfully given me nice clean and more importantly precise cuts. (Just pickup a good 24" right angle square, never trust the little tick marks on the unit, they never account for blade kerf.)

For my build I ended up buying quite a few tools that have helped me. A $35 Krej Pocket Jig for making pocket screws has been monumental for making the cabinets for example. The right tool can mean the difference between cursing at yourself for a day and having to redo something or having a nice easy time.

And you have the right attitude. Never say "I don't know how to do this" or "I can't do it because I haven't done it before". I hadn't done any real welding before my build and had to teach myself as I went. (I spent a good week with scrap learning before starting on anything project related.)

[KCStudly]

Another option is to just by 1x's instead of 2x's.

Remember, you don't "have" to take our advice, but it is here for you if you choose to accept it.

[Albuoy]

For the outer walls, what type of Plywood have you guys used? I was thinking 1/8 luan.

[TwoFeetShorter]

I used 2x2's for my subfloor base. Gave me less height than what 2x4 would have, and still suited my needs. After building and being (ALMOST!) done with my TD, I would have used 2x3's on the long frame side laid down on the 3" side of the board. The 2x2 did not leave me a lot of play to drill the holes for the mounting bolts to the trailer frame, and an extra 1" would have made my life easier.

If your trailer is factory built, taking measurements will be fine. If it comes in a box you have to put together, wait before building further and get your trailer put together. I have found box kits are all a bit different when assembled.
When it comes to tools, I used a square, a 5" trim saw, an impact driver, and a drill driver. Of course tape measures and various strait edges. Those were the tools I had, so that is what I worked with. Job could have been done much easier with a table saw and a shop saw, but I don't have either in my garage!


I used 1/2" plywood all the way around my build, floor and all, but I covered my interior walls with acoustic carpet, not luan or similar so I could afford the weight.

Hope my input is helpful!
Neil

[Albuoy]

Mine will come in a box, so I will put this build on hold for a bit then. Thanks for the advice on that. It is a northern tools Ironton 5x8.

I have many tools to use on this, i just don't have anything fixed like a table saw. I learned early with a skill saw, and I am more comfortable with that.

Any and all input is helpful, one reason I joined this site to get the advice, and tips and tricks!