annealing AL or what I did today

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby madjack » Thu Jun 01, 2006 12:19 am

Wooody, I melted or scorched several pieces of trim before I got the technique figured out and it helps TREMENDOUSLY if there are 2 people participating in the bending of said trim...one to pull and one to tap...
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Postby Woody » Thu Jun 01, 2006 12:06 pm

Thanks Mad jack I hadn't made the connection yet. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Bandit » Thu Jun 01, 2006 2:25 pm

MadJack,
Great job on the annealing and trim. I am getting started on mine.
Where did you find the trim/seal for your doors. I like that it fits over the aluminum trim. I was going to do a offset frame of oak on the inside and use a compression seal, but I like this much better.
Thanks! :thinking: :thumbsup:

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Another Continuation to this post.
At $1.43 per foot and a minimum of 250ft, I'll look for another solution.
May just use your technique for the aluminum edging and find a stick on 3/8" seal.
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Postby madjack » Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:57 pm

Bandit, that trim seal can be had from Austin Hardware by the foot at around 2 bucks a foot...a little cheaper than buying 250' worth from Trim-Lok
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Postby Bandit » Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:38 pm

I kerfed then annealed and it worked great!

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Postby madjack » Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:42 pm

Bandit, just two comments...you don't need to kerf that deep and you don't need to kerf the "outside" piece at all....other than that, good job dude :thumbsup:
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Postby Bandit » Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:33 pm

Thanks for the comments. I'll leave it for know. I need to get it done by mid August. I figure it will always be a work in progress. I can correct this later. But, I will try your comments on the other door.
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Postby GPW » Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:00 am

Oops !!!
Last edited by GPW on Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby GPW » Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:02 am

MJ... I tried it with a propane torch and it didn't seem to do anything ... tried for a long time ... Nothing visible happened... But it did start to bend ... a little .... Am I just wasting time with my little p/ant torch ???? :wacky
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Postby cracker39 » Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:04 am

I don't meanto hihack this thread, but it seems the logical place to ask a question about aluminum trim.

I didn't put any corner trim on my TTT, but I'm considering doing it now, as several small hairline cracks appeared at the edge joints where the sides join the top, front, or back. These were easily filled with sealant, but I'm thinking of giving those edges more protection from future cracks. I stopped at an RV dealer and they have aluminum trip in white that looks like it will bend to my tightest curve without much trouble. The diagram below shows where I'll install the trim (in blue). I'll have to flatten it some to fit the top horizontal corners. The trim shape is also pictured. It's $38 for a 16' piece. Is that a reasonable price? It already has holes for screws and requires no plastic insert.

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Postby Ira » Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:23 am

Dale, you think that'll bend without crimping up real bad?

The other option is to use individual pieces, and just cap them off where they meet, kind of like an above-ground pool uses.
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Postby madjack » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:39 pm

G, that propane torch will doit... lightly soot the piece to be annealed with a candle...as it reaches proper temp, the soot will disappear and the flame will have a yellowish cast to it...I use a pistol grip propane torch I got at HF...it has a slightly larger flame than many of your little pi$$ant torches......

Dale, you might haveta relieve the short leg at the point of bend of the sharp breaks in your profile.....
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Postby Cary Winch » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:46 pm

Dale,

My parts catalog doesn't show that profile in white, so I am kind of guessing. The 14' mill finish version of that retails at $9.00. The 16' insert version can be had in a couple of different versions in white. One version retails for $21.55 and the other version retails for $18.05. So I would say the price they are saying is a bit off and you should check around.

You don't want to be annealing it if it is white. Have yourself some plastic faced hammers of varying hardness for working it around the shape. The sharp corners will have to be notched and bent like Jack said.

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Postby asianflava » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:48 pm

The propane torch will work, even on heavily sooted extrusions. The thing about it is, it takes a long time. I was gonna buy a MAPP torch but decided to limp along with the propane torch. I already had one so no sense buying another torch.
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Postby Bandit » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:54 pm

I already had a MAPP/Oxygen Torch, so I used it and it burns off the soot in a matter of seconds. The soot completely disappears.
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