BEULA - a foam Winter Warrior with aero front

[GPW]

No reason to feel embarrassed around here.... It’s all about Camping and Not a beauty pageant ...

[RAYVILLIAN]

I know what you mean on the sheet rock I'm currently doing some for my son and it always seems like I need one more swipe with the knife, then, "OH CRAP i JUST SCREWED IT UP". oh well smooth it out next time. But like GPW says we ain't gona be critical, heck I rebuilt the tongue box on my trailer last spring and now the poor things nose is crooked on one side.

Gary

[cpowell243]

The support is great, but I still think I'm gonna push the envelope on this ugly business. Tomorrow I tuck thecanvas under the floor. I also plan to throw the hatch pieces on the floor and see how much it weighs.

[GPW]

We don’t make “ugly trailers “ .... those are made by the large manufacturers (boxes) ... We make “interesting” trailers ...

[starleen2]

ya know - I used to worry about getting it just perfect, glossy paint, no runs,sharp defined edges - THEN WHAPPPP, big squishy bugs hit the camper without mercy - or - the Highway department decides it's a good time to resurface the road, and you get that wonderful black road goo on you nice shiny camper. The last time someone criticized my trailer, I replied," give me $4,000.00 and you can make it look however you want!". You are doing just fine

[cpowell243]

K. Managed to rebuild the fan opening:
[img][/img]

and

[img][/img].

Next added a junction box - battery in back and 12v feed to box up the wire chase, then split in box to dome light, fan, and reading light above the bed. Lights will have 3-way switches by each side door.

[img][/img]

Then finished covering the nose with canvas:

[img][/img]


Then primed with Gripper:

[img][/img]

and

[img][/img]

This weekend cover with exterior latex - light gold (Wyoming Cowboy colors are brown and gold)

Think it passes the 15 foot test. Hopefully better with a few finish coats.

[OP827]

Yes it does pass and will be only better with more coats, it's great, nice work! I am sure it was not easy to glue down the canvas on this 3D curve surface

[GPW]

Looking GOOD !!!

[cpowell243]

Will post pics with better lighting Sunday night after 1st coat of light gold.

[cpowell243]

Here she is - painted. Sorry about shadows - will take a few more and post as I build hatch.Think i passed the 15 foot test - barely. The lower half of nose has more irregularities but will be covered with diamond plate. Hatch is temporarily in place to check on height when raised - think it will be about 73" - fine for us at 5'7" and 5'6".
Now I lower the body onto the frame and bolt in place. Then the hatch.
Ch

[img][/img]

[img][/img]

[img][/img]

[GPW]

JMHO, I think now painted it has a distinctive Pioneer “wagon" look to it .... and that’s really kinda’ COOL eh !!!

[cpowell243]

Pioneer look _ I'll take it. As long as it rolls and sheds water...
Decide to hold off on the hatch until the rear wall is in place.
One goal is to have a galley that will stand 36" high inside trailer along the wall, then have the same galley pivot around to use outside from ground level.
I have attached a sketch but may not be decipherable. Galley is on the left side with three drawers attached to the underside of a 2X4 table. All three upper sections will fold up and be secured to the ceiling when in travel mode. Battery will sit behind the drawers along the left wall. Two more permanent drawers will be attached to the floor to add 12" height when in use inside, again to create a 36' galley table height.
The lower section will have three hinged panels to allow the two right panels to fold around the wall, thus making room for the drawers when the galley swings around to be accessed from outside. Several hinges and possible entry points for water...
Does this make any sense? Doable?
Th

[img][/img]

[starleen2]

First – how is your rear wall attached? Will it hinge from the top or in the center? The lady bug had the hinge in the center which made the door two pieces with a center hinge in the middle, basically making the door one piece when the wall was extended. Hinges were on the inside and a strip of aluminum was on the outside to keep out rain and cover the gap. If the top is hinged at the top then the door will have to be in two pieces (like a barn door).



As long as you seal each hatch, it should be much of a problem. I put metal trim around each hatch hole to keep the rubber gasket from sticking to the paint.


I didn’t have a side door, but wished I did! I would have to raise the hatch every time I needed in the camper. However, with your side entry you have easy access to bedding and storage for a quick overnighter without a complete set up. Take this into consideration when building the back wall that you still have access to lower cabinets, drawers, A/C just in case you might need a quickie sleep over without extending the hatch

[cpowell243]

Starleen,
My top sections will need to be hinged at the top and fold up, since they would prevent access to the galley if they fold down. I'm hoping that the use of polystyrene framed with 1X2 will make the upper wall sections (including the top half of the door) light enough to fold up without much effort. Was thinking of using a catch of some kind - like a broom holder catch - to hold the three pieces in place when they are stored in the up position. The idea is to fold the wall down at night or in bad weather to create an enclosed camper, but fold the walls up and the swing galley around (90 degrees) for open access when we are outside. I have three latches formerly used to hold a tent camper top in place that I was planning to use to secure the top and bottom sections together. I know my sketch was pretty lame - could you make it out?
???

[RAYVILLIAN]

Hi Charlie
I haven't been on the forum for a while. I see the idea of having the top back wall swing up when the hatch is up but I got a quick question what will hold the hatch up with the back wall up. I think all of the WW so far use the back top wall to support the hatch when it is up. Just wonderin. I agree you need to build the back lower wall before the hatch. that will keep the side walls stable. On mine even with a 2x3 tube across the bottom of the back wall I get a slight bit of flex in my back wall. Not much just enough to make the bottom half of the door catch at times.

Gary