Ok here we go...PMF!

[dales133]

I got a handle on it.
When I belt sanded the ribs I put a flat spot on the outside of the right hand profile but the inside was ok so I cut the rebate both inside and outside.
Where they met I didnt cut far enough and when I changed the the top bearing flush trim it took off on me.
Least it didn't damage the inside of the galley.
Recon I should prime the filler or smear spack over it before the pmf?
I'm concerned about it sticking to the bog (bondo)

[dales133]

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I got that far before I pulled the pin last night

[dales133]

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I got that far before I pulled the pin last night

Used some fiber reinforced bog aswell as some standard stuff and pared it back with a chisel between coats

[tony.latham]

I had a friend that had a router slip... ended up running around on his thigh. They didn't use bondo to fix it.

Dunno if TB2 glues to bondo, I bet it will but you might want to do a test first. Giving it some tooth with 80 grit, will help of course.

Looking good, as usual. Glad that accident was easily fixed.

T

[dales133]

Thanks mate.
Yea routers arnt very forgiving when they get away from you,I've wounded myself enough times to have a healthy respect for power tools.

[KCStudly]

TB2 does not stick well to polyester filler (first hand experience). If you scuff it and coat, and repeat several times it will eventually catch, but you may have better luck hitting it with some spray bomb primer first. Maybe.

[dales133]

Ive got some super primer that sticks to anything and ab g nothing sticks to it supposedly.
Might have to try tbat

[dales133]

Didn't have alot of time after work today but made use of daylight savings starting and went over the ply skin with a straight edge and pencil to mark any high spots then belt sanded them back.
I blocked back the repair on my opps moment,primed and spack filled it.
I also spack filled an area at the front that had a bit of a concave thing going on.
Esentialy the drivers side is pretty much ready for canvas other than a few small things.
I'm at the point ive been dreading more than building the hatch. ...getting it off the trailer and back on again in one piece.
While it's off I need to clean up the glue ooze under the floor so I can wrap the canvas under and then reseal the underside of the floor.

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So any ideas on how to make a cradle that allows me as much access to the underside particularly the side perimeters and getting it on and off again is apreciated

[KCStudly]

4x4's (long enough to clear the wheels) propped up on jack stands or dunnage/blocking, then a couple of smaller 2x blocks on top of the 4x4's at the side walls to space the floor up a bit?

If your cabin is structurally intact (roof on) then you probably don't need a special cradle. The main reason I built mine on a cradle is to have something to rig from while tipping it down thru the floor hatch in the loft.

[Sheddie]

As KC said. I sat my one on a couple of planks on a stack of concrete blocks. This was before the roof went on and it was rigid as.

[dales133]

Ive got the top of a tradesmans trailer and a couple or sleepers organised to put it on.
Shes coming off tomorrow!
Got a couple of mates giving me a hand and shes all sanded and read for p.f on the sides.
The trailers going to get a few slight additions/alterations ,paint;sub floor ;draw system in then shes all going back together
Not sure how long all that will take but im hoping not to long!

[dales133]

Got it off the trailer in one piece.
Was easier than expected, shes all sanded and ready for canvas other than a couple of spots on the passenger side.
Im pre shrinking the canvas and hope to get it on today

[dales133]

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[Sheddie]

Well done, nice and quick.

[dales133]

Cheers frank.
Just come in from outside,trimmed it up and glued the edge down after fixing a few bubbles.

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