Guess and check

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Re: Guess and check

Postby hpuckett4 » Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:46 am

I need to crawl underneath the trailer and coat the exterior floor with a sealant. What would work better, oil based paint and primer or Thompson's water seal?
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Re: Guess and check

Postby KCStudly » Wed Oct 14, 2015 7:40 pm

Several years ago when my mom and Bill were refinishing their deck, she mentioned that Thompson's water seal was rated lowest in a Consumer Reports test. Sorry, I don't have any more info than that.

I think they are a well known brand based on the fact that they spend a lot of money on advertising. YMMV.
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Re: Guess and check

Postby Woodbutcher » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:06 pm

I use Elastomeric roof coating. It is a white rubber coating that you can brush on. It holds up well and can be bought at Menards, in the roofing department.
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Re: Guess and check

Postby tony.latham » Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:32 pm

Several years ago when my mom and Bill were refinishing their deck, she mentioned that Thompson's water seal was rated lowest in a Consumer Reports test. Sorry, I don't have any more info than that.

I think they are a well known brand based on the fact that they spend a lot of money on advertising. YMMV.


I bought a gallon of that stuff back in 1977 and wasn't impressed. Looking a the MSD sheet, it's basically paint thinner with paraffin oil in it.
http://archpdfs.lps.org/Chemicals/Thomp ... r-Seal.pdf

Henry's roofing tar is a favorite. You might also consider "the mix" which is a thinned polyurethane. Here's how I did #2:

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But grab a friend! :frightened:

Tony :beer:
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Re: Guess and check

Postby noseoil » Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:21 am

I got a gallon of white elastomeric roof coat for mine. Easy, cheap & you can see what's going on underneath easier than with the black asphalt emulsion later on. Here's the deck prior to coating with the sealant. I did 2 coats of urethane, then 2 coats of the roof coat prior to flipping it over.

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I figured it was easier to coat the panel first, then flip it over for the build to start. Once the sides are screwed down, the holes along the bottom edge just need to be touched up & sealed with a paint brush. Since I'm doing the build on the frame, this was the simple method (KISS). I screwed in the sides from the bottom of the deck & up into the sides with pilot holes, 2 1/2" drywall screws & Titebond II.

I pre-finished the top the same way, as well as the side panels. Easier to coat things when they're laying flat, no runs to deal with this way.

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A slot is milled into the edge to set the side panel in place. Keeps it where it needs to be when the glue is setting up & the screws are run in to hold it all together. Simple & very solid joint with the glue when it sets up.

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Re: Guess and check

Postby booyah » Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:10 am

I used black beauty fence post paint. Its an aspahlt based paint that brushed and rolled right on. 3 coats for mine seems to be perfect
My build, 5x8 modified benroy "Smiles to go". Started April 2nd 2015, first trip August 2nd 2015.

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Re: Guess and check

Postby hpuckett4 » Thu Oct 15, 2015 11:52 am

Thanks guys! I've heard a lot about the elastomeric, I think I'll go to menards and check it out.
Here is an update of where I'm at, kitchen is just about done and i have one coat of oil based paint/primer on the roof.
Thinking about insulating the roof, what have you guys found is the best way to cut that pink board stuff?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444927727.139505.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444927727.139505.jpg (228.11 KiB) Viewed 2357 times


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444927716.671107.jpg
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Re: Guess and check

Postby pchast » Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:34 pm

I used blue( it is similar ). I used a hot wire, hand saw, circular saw
to break down the large size and occasionally the table saw.
Depending on your thickness you could use a box cutter or steak knife.
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Re: Guess and check

Postby noseoil » Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:51 pm

A saw is way too messy. Straight edge & knife is all you need. I use a Japanese Kiridashi veneer knife. It's flat on one side, laminated steel & very nice for fine cuts in foam.

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Re: Guess and check

Postby KCStudly » Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:12 am

The table saw is best for accuracy, but can be messy if not equipped with a good dust collection system.

For hand cutting I prefer a stiff straight edged steak knife or small boning knife (not a cheap flimsy serrated steak knife). Follow a metal straight edge in long dragging strokes with the blade laid very close to parallel to the surface. Drag the knife a couple or three times for a nice clean cut. The stiffer blade helps the knife track straight and plumb.

If you hold the knife straight up and down you end up either sawing thru the foam (messy) or plowing through making chunks and tears.

On the thicker sizes it takes a little time to learn to make nice plumb cut lines, so in the beginning leave yourself a little margin, as you may have to sand the edge true.
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Re: Guess and check

Postby lincolnlerner » Fri Oct 16, 2015 12:07 pm

Took me a second to understand what you meant by parallel to the work surface. Got it now. So holding the knife low to the surface/foam, handle and drawing it across. At first I was confused with the knife edge parallel to the foam, as in sideways. My fault.
In other words do not hold the knife handle straight up and down, perpendicular to the surface.
Yes excellent advice. I should of known since I have done lots of similar stuff. Your tips on how to avoid sawing and chunking are spot on. Thanks! I can always count on you to know every step and the correct ways.
Again,

Thanks
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Re: Guess and check

Postby dales133 » Fri Oct 16, 2015 12:46 pm

If it dosnt require a perfectly straight edge a quick easy way to deal with it is use a thin straight edge (i use a plasterboard cutting t square) and keeping a stanly knife (box cutter i think you guys call them) perpendicular to the foam cut in several strokes until youve gone the entire blade depth then snap it.
The table saw was invaluable for ripping it but its messy and it can grab on the blade so do it with caution.
Keep new blades at hand as it makes life way easier if they are sharp.
Your doing a great job,keep up the good work
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Re: Guess and check

Postby booyah » Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:45 pm

I did a utility knife and and straight edge on 3/4" foam board. Worked pretty well.

Are those 2x4s as roof spars? seems overkill
My build, 5x8 modified benroy "Smiles to go". Started April 2nd 2015, first trip August 2nd 2015.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63145
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Re: Guess and check

Postby hpuckett4 » Sat Oct 17, 2015 10:39 pm

They are 2x4 stud boards that I ripped in half, they are pretty light.

Thanks for the input, I'll let you know what I find works for me!
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Re: Guess and check

Postby hpuckett4 » Thu Oct 22, 2015 2:14 pm

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I just got my final cost of oil based paint/primer on the outer side of the inner skin. Technically, I have no idea the purpose of this step, but water protection always sounds like a good idea.

My dilemma is that before me are three daunting tasks: the doors, the hatch, and the exterior skins. I'm not sure what to tackle first.

My current and hesitant plan of attack is to put in room insulation, skin the front part of the roof, glue on the aesthetic side skins (3/16" ply" then do the hatch, then doors, then trim. Sounds good, right? Let's see how it works out.
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