8.5x 20 Cross Trailer conversion.

[monocog]

I purchased a fifth wheel that had been in a wreck, stripped what I needed. On my cargo trailer I would like to put the fridge in front of trailer. I know the fridge needs to draft between wall vent and roof vent. What are your opinions on putting lower vent in floor, making a stainless steel vent/screen so water and rodents can't get in, and then venting out roof with either a standard roof vent or stainless vent so driven water/rain can't get in? My thoughts are if it is in floor, it should have better draft than if it were in wall.

[hankaye]

monocog, Howdy;

Most RV fridge makers have their install manuals online. As you
will be dealing with space for insulation and venting requirements
so you don't either burn your CT up or extinguish any life forms
within I'd do some reading to see what the makers recommend ...
Just get the makers name and model # and google it.

hank

PS. They work a lot better when they are set-up correctly....

[rebapuck]

Some fridges need to be really level to work well.

[monocog]

Hankeye, I have installation manual with clearances, it states use xxxxx part number side vent and roof vent. I am not set on using rv fridge at this point due to risk of fire and all the issues that they seem to have. Throwing around ideas, I would be happy with a larger marine cooler on a cart, but trying to keep the other half happy. Rebapuck, level shouldn't be an issue, I welded 4 scissor jacks/stabalizers.

[hankaye]

rebapuck, Howdy;

Some fridges need to be really level to work well.

Very true with the 'older' ones, not so much with the 'newer' ones.

Hankeye, I have installation manual with clearances, it states use xxxxx part number side vent and roof vent. I am not set on using rv fridge at this point due to risk of fire and all the issues that they seem to have. Throwing around ideas, I would be happy with a larger marine cooler on a cart, but trying to keep the other half happy. Rebapuck, level shouldn't be an issue, I welded 4 scissor jacks/stabalizers.

Been livin' in an RV and using that type of 'fridge for 6 years now. First was a used '95 that was a tad more critical about level,
present is an '08. The fires are a very rare thing, more houses burn down than RVs every year ... all depends on how one looks at it.

hank

[monocog]

Decided against rv fridge, I didn't want to cut holes in roof and wanted to mount in front of trailer. Insulated, installed flooring, painted walls, turned out out better than expected. Installed flooring, bedliner on ramp. Installed queen drop/pull down loft bed. Camping as I write this, raining like crazy.

[monocog]

[Rainier70]

I like your bed setup. With the gas assist about how heavy is it to push it up?

[wanabxtrm]

I'm curious to see more detail on your bracket/slides. I think I have mine worked out but still have some binding issues if they get out of alignment. In the end I over estimated the bed weight so I need to physically pull it down vice pushing it up. Heres a few pics of it. Also what's your range of motion on it?

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[monocog]

Cindy, when pulling down from ceiling it takes some effort the first 6 inches, after that with 2 fingers I am able to pull it down, when putting it up the first 8 or 10 inches takes a bit of effort and then it rises on its own. I would guess 50 pounds of force for initial pull down, and 40 for initial rise.

[monocog]

Wanabxtrm,
I believe I have 32 inches of range, I will measure and take pictures tomorrow. My bed frame weighs about 80 pounds, I used 84 pounds of force on all 4 gas struts. If you add unistrut parallel to your uprights, angle struts approximately 40 to 45 degrees you can get nearly full travel of the overall strut extended length. My struts only have a compression range of about 12 inches.

[wanabxtrm]

Wanabxtrm,
I will measure and take pictures tomorrow.

...poke...still curious