notre larme - Modified Gruman 2

[Sheddie]

Rather than bog, what about laminating a strip of wood/ply along the top edge before you put the roof ply on?

[dales133]

Rather than bog, what about laminating a strip of wood/ply along the top edge before you put the roof ply on?

Beat ya to it!

[Sheddie]

Rather than bog, what about laminating a strip of wood/ply along the top edge before you put the roof ply on?

Beat ya to it!

Pipped at the post. Great minds think alike

[dales133]

I ended up sikaflxing and stapling masonite to bowed spars,no reason it wont work for him

[Sheddie]

As long as it is well sealed so no moisture can get to it.

[Strop]

Thanks guys,

Sorry for the delay was having the Sunday family meal. Stewed Wallaby. By the time I get around to the BBQ Kiwi it will be well and truly freezer burnt.

Anyway, masonite sounds a lot cheaper than steel. Glue and staple a piece on each side of the pine spars to give them some laminated strength. I could perhaps even keep my spars to 25mm doing that. Thoughts?

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Laurie

[Strop]

2052 x 25 x 3mm Masonite Hardboard Packer $.75 each x 16 = $12
Masonite 1830 x 1220 x 4.8mm Standard Hardboard $32
Structural CD Plywood 2400 x 1200mm 7mm $32

Was thinking that the ply might have more strength.

Laurie

[dales133]

Yea glue and staple to the top of the wall edge so it gives you increased spar thickness.
Ply would be my preference as it dosnt delaminate but as long as your screwing trim through it later it isnt an issue.
Id waterproof it before you skin it tbough and theres a bunch of ways to do that

[Strop]

I have misunderstood you. I was thinking of putting some masonite on the spars to strengthen them against bowing.

Laurie

[dales133]

No.
Use it to increase your wall hight so you can install thicker spars.
You can flush trim it back along with your roof sheet.
Its a verry cheap and easy fix for your issue and you dont have to compromise your spar stenth

[KCStudly]

Did I miss something? Why not just cut the step in the wall tops deeper?

[dales133]

Did I miss something? Why not just cut the step in the wall tops deeper?

That had crossed my mind but id assumed for some reason he couldnt now because it seemed to obvious

[Sheddie]

Hi Laurie, personally I would not go that thin with the spars. You get the most strength across a span with the spars on their edge, not on their side. That is with the bigger measurement vertical not horizontal making them wider won't add much support. I have 42mm x 20mm, the 42mm being the vertical dimension.
If you don't want to drop the ceiling height down, you could look at laminating a strip along the top of the walls to build them up to level with the top of the spars. Unfortunately this may mean a redesign of the hatch.
Keep up the good work it is looking nice.

Did I miss something? Why not just cut the step in the wall tops deeper?

That had crossed my mind but id assumed for some reason he couldnt now because it seemed to obvious

That had been my thoughts as well but i assume that the cabinets are in the way to stop dropping the ceiling.

[Strop]

Sheddie, correct. Cabinets all made and fitted.

[Strop]

After much thought and research I have decided that I am going for a 25mmx38mm wide spar over the cupboards. Made from 2 pieces of pine laminated together and trimmed down. The cupboards are substantial and will prevent any sagging. That leaves me with the centre mass - laminating 3 pieces of pine together 25mmx57mm when cut down. The centre is filled with styrofoam glued to ceiling, spars and roof. Hoping, or I should say, it will all sandwich up strong. The 25mm will be the vertical dimension of the timber, it will not be laying flat.



Laurie