"Jackal" 5x10 TD Running water.

[Gettin Started]

While I'm not an electrical expert, I believe the proper answer is that running the 110V black wire into the 30 amp breaker energizes the metal rail that the circuit breakers plug into. That is why the 30 amp breaker is the "master breaker". Switch it off and it cuts all 110V power to the other breakers.

So when you add the 15 amp breaker (or any other for that matter), it is getting "hot" power from its contact with the rail. When you run a black wire from the 15 amp breaker to the hot bus, it is providing a hot connection from the breaker rail to the hot bus which already has a wire connected into it (or should from the factory) that flows that hot connection to the converter.

Like you, it took me a lot of thinking to work this all out as it wasn't intuitive given my lack of electrical experience. Hope this helps.

[Gettin Started]

Another thing I'm confused about is the use of both red & black wires for the 12 volt power. What's up with that one, why?

I think the reasoning behind that was that the #1,#2 positions are for 30 amp max and everything else is a max of 20 amp. That could really only be my best guess.

Agree, only reason seems to be to differentiate the 30 amp max positions (red) versus 20 amp (black).

[Padilen]

This is for a house but explains what a main is.
So, what is a main breaker anyway? You'd think that it is something special having a name like that. Actually, the main breaker is the breaker that the feeder wire connects to. This breaker is a two-pole breaker that is connected to 240 volts to power your home. The main breaker acts as the disconnecting means to the entire power load of your breaker box. With it off, there is no power being fed to the buss bar that feeds the branch circuit breakers.
I didn't understand your question until the others answered. Sorry, I made an assumption that everyone knew what a main did. I forget not everyone pokes around in their panels.
As for the red 12v yes more amps. If it you look at them you can tell its also heavier gage wire. Mine are not used I only need/have 2-10's one for water pump and one for 12 volt outlet. All my lights are 12v they're on 3's all bulbs are LED's. I have only 1 thing wired to each fuse and breaker. Since I used dual breakers I have an unused slot. So I did put a dual 15 in the slot shut off as a spare. Or if I add more wiring later. I/
You can wire more than one thing to each breaker or fuse. As long as they do not exceed the amps of the fuse/breaker. I could wire all my lights to one fuse- 7.5 or 10. Or I could wire my 2 receptacles (outlets)to one breaker. Again as long as what I plug in to them doesn't exceed the breaker. I did one on one so if I need to add more outlets I can just add a wire and outlet to the load terminals of my GFI outlets and they'll be GFI protected.

[JmsCaverly]

Padilen thanks for that explanation, I'm slowly starting to get ahold of this. I had my "ah ha" moment tonight while my wife was looking at that I was doing. After talking with Gettin Started and Noseoil today I ran to Lowes after work and grabbed a few more breakers. I got the 15 amp I was missing to run my charger/converter. ....... "Well had happened was" lol I had everything hooked up and running, dome light in the cabin was on so I knew that I was getting good power. I checked all my voltages everything looked good 110v were needed and 12v where needed but as I was explaining things to my wife, I killed the breaker to the main shore to show her that even without the 110v shore power the batteries would kick in and keep the lights on. WELLLLL that didnt happen the power was cut and the lights would go out...... lovingly she laughs!!! I was getting mad but I knew something had to be up because I checked everything. Well as I was going over the panel shes asked why the battery switch was "OFF" and thats when it clicked. I knew that with the batteries "OFF" the shore power was the only thing supplying power. Which is GOOD!!!! not a bad thing. I was still getting my 12v power where I needed it and everything was good.

I am still far from being "done" with the electrical but I think it's safe to say that the main get up of the panel in done I can add and remove things as needed and move on to the next part of the build which mean sealing up the walls and roof.

I want to get all the AC outlets set up for the TV/DVD and fridge.

But again you guys need a huge THANK YOU to Padilen, Gettin Started and Noseoil. without your help I would still be fighting with this thing.

And for anyone else thats reading along I hope this discussion over the last few days can help you.

[Gettin Started]

Glad it worked out. It's a nice feeling getting it to work and understanding how it works. The first 3 12V circuits I hooked up, I didn't have power to the circuit then remembered to add the fuse for that circuit. By the 4th circuit, I remembered to add the fuse before testing it Fun learning process.

[JmsCaverly]

I've had a productive weekend I almost feel like a pro at this PD 4045. I got all the wiring done, I still might add in a few add charging outlets and an AC in the galley but those can wait a few weeks. I even spent a couple hours taking my time to label all the wires at the back of the box and inside, the last thing I want to do is chase wires if an issue pops up.



I got myself a fancy little outlet box and gfi for the fridge just in case plus this area will be near the water pump and if water hits it this should kill the issue quick ( it's also an outdoor gfi).



I also had time to get the tv and entertainment center built and installed. I'm quite happy with how it looks, I forgot to take a picture of the back I'll do that tomorrow and post it but basically it's just and outlet and a cable line for the shore cable or the satellite.

"OFF"



"ON"



I'm happy to say they we both powered through the control center which makes me really happy.

[Gettin Started]

Looks great!

[JmsCaverly]

This last week was a busy one I got send out on a mission to "southeast asia" hahaha ...... But it opened up some money for the build. So if we build it they will come!

I have started the galley cabinetry Which I'm excited about I'm a cabinet maker at heart, I'm going to do all the face work in Cherry and then leave the birch ply unstained which should give a nice contrast.

On the the pics, I started the support structure of the galley cabinets.



When I started to look at the upper cabinets I realized the top of the cabinet wouldnt have lined up witht e lower section so I had to make a step so that they will sit plumb.





I finally picked up the mini fridge, due to the space lost in the galley from the bunk beds were going with a mini fridge, which still fits nicely tucked away in the corner. Something I found pretty funny when reading to see how long it takes to cool I found this. I specifically like the part about not for use in an RV, and other outside installations. I have plans for the ventilation issues I can already see heat being an issue but I'm thinking of a few small exhaust fans at the back to help with the heat disipation.

[Vedette]

A fridge is a wonderful thing to have while teardrop camping.
But why did you not go with a 110 / 12V unit?
We have an old Koolatron and just love it.
Car charge keeps it running all day while travelling, runs off the TD battery while camping overnight without power, and runs via 110 thru the converter when plugged into shoreline power.
It produces very little heat and the fan is in the top lid, so sides and back can be a snug fit in the hole.
Lid opens from the top, the way we use it (because it sits down in a hole. But it is designed to stand on end with the door opening to the front like your configuration.
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi

[JmsCaverly]

To be honest with you I didnt even think about it. I knew I wanted a refrigerator over a cooler just for the fact that I know I dont have to refill with ice. But I guess the high note would be that I got the mini fridge so cheap I had a few left over dollars on a Home Depot gift card and they were on sale on black friday, I only paid $30 cash for it. So I guess it was just an impusive buy and I knew I needed one. I tested it out the other day to see how quickly it would cool and it go down to 36 degrees in just under 2 hours not too bad for a park, set up and it will be ready. Thanks for the info Vedette, I'm going to look into them tonight.

Can anyone else chime in and tell me what their using and how they like their set up?

[ibbowhunting]

what is the inside height of your trailer looks roomie, nice build

[JmsCaverly]

The interior high is 48", I give you the rest of them too 108" long -28" for the bunk beds and 57" wide that leaves the main sleeping area plenty large enough for a queen size foam mattress.

It feels really roomy when my whole family is inside, it doesnt feel cramped at all.

Thanks for checking out my build!

[noseoil]

Hi James, just wondering about the hatch to fridge top corner clearance. Is there enough room to mount the hatch & miss the corner with the depth of the ribs & skin? It just looks very close to me.

The build is looking good now & wiring looks like it should be there for the duration. Loads of fun, isn't it? Glad progress is moving forward, as once in a while my progress goes in the other direction, but it's all good. Just keep plugging away at it!

[KCStudly]

Noseoil, I thought the same thing about the hatch rib clearance, until I realized all of the roof spars are sitting on top of the walls; so I assume the hatch ribs will also be over the edges of the galley walls.

I guess that means that there will be blocking in between the tail ends of the spars and whatever exterior skin is used will have to be about 49-1/2 or 50 inches tall/wide. (?)

[Vedette]

You woodworking guys just amaze me with your talents!
Brian