Tounge box connection points/design.

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Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby dales133 » Sun Oct 18, 2015 5:00 pm

As the title suggests im looking at making a tall box that isnt to deep to fit to my draw bar ho house batteries,solar panels ect.
The top will be curved to mimic the benroys front curve all beit smaller.
The top section will have a liftup lid to house battery cut off switch and waterpump switch ect ,like a control panel with solar controler amp meter ect.
I discussed this once with kc a long time ago and he was concerned that flex in the dtawbar might be an issue if i conected it directly to the front wall of the drop.

Any suggestions and hopefuly pictures apreciated.
Not sure if the front or sides will open on the lower section at this point.
Cheers dale
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby Kaz » Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:06 pm

I just got started on my tongue box. Small, but just for my battery and chock blocks. same construction method as my trailer. Very light weight. I plan on having the bottom section under the battery be 3/4" plywood held to the trailer with two 2" square u-bolts right to the tongue rail and the battery tie down strap under the u-bolts inside the tongue box. I'll leave about 1/4" between box and trailer. I'm am sot securing anything to the front of the trailer. No rubbing, binding and no means of attachment that can become a leak.136644136645
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby dales133 » Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:13 pm

Looks good,thanks for the response
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby lrrowe » Mon Oct 19, 2015 6:30 am

I will be watching this post for ideas. I want to include two 20 lb propane tanks in the same concept.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby Kaz » Wed Oct 21, 2015 4:12 pm

lrrowe wrote:I will be watching this post for ideas. I want to include two 20 lb propane tanks in the same concept.


Just an example of what I have started. Can be built to any size to accommodate propane bottles or whatever.
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby lrrowe » Wed Oct 21, 2015 4:34 pm

:thumbsup:
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby drhill » Thu Oct 22, 2015 9:47 am

Dale - I built a tongue box with a curve similar to the front of the Benroy. My wife suggested putting the doors on the ends and that made it easier to build and also I don't have to remove bikes from the bike rack to get into the tongue box. It holds the screen canopy, 20 lb propane tank, BBQ and a few odds and ends. It is mounted about 1-1/4" from the front of the teardrop pod. I have allot of weight on the tongue when fully loaded and there is a bit of flex. I'll try to post a couple pictures.

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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby lrrowe » Thu Oct 22, 2015 10:22 am

drhill wrote:Dale - I built a tongue box with a curve similar to the front of the Benroy. My wife suggested putting the doors on the ends and that made it easier to build and also I don't have to remove bikes from the bike rack to get into the tongue box. It holds the screen canopy, 20 lb propane tank, BBQ and a few odds and ends. It is mounted about 1-1/4" from the front of the teardrop pod. I have allot of weight on the tongue when fully loaded and there is a bit of flex. I'll try to post a couple pictures.

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drhill, I like this design, In my case, I think I like the top opening lid.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby Kharn » Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:23 pm

If you don't anchor the two together, you'll need a space between them to prevent rubbing and then fill the gap with something flexible to make it look right. I decided it was easier to just anchor the box to the body in multiple places and rely on the drawbar extension to stiffen it.


If you need to get electricity between the body and the box, put two exterior electrical boxes underneath, drill ~2" holes through the floors/boxes and run flexible water-tight conduit between them. I would run several conduits so you're not pressed for space and have room to grow, and that's much easier to do before everything is screwed and caulked in place. It also makes an easy way to get your trailer connection into the box, just knock out another plug and use a liquid tight connector around the harness (if you're doing 7-pin, it's a little harder for a 4-pin since they're not round).
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby dales133 » Tue Nov 03, 2015 12:50 am

Thanks!
I was looking at a lift up top and either ope ing sides or a opening front.
Still havnt decided exactly yet
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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby noseoil » Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:58 am

On mine it came with a metal tongue box already attached, a 50# steel box with lots of space inside. The trailer was made originally to haul go carts to a race track, so the tongue box was turned with the lock on the back & the hinge in front. Great for security & working on a flat deck trailer, but not too easy to open with the trailer in place.

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It got turned around so the hinge was facing the back side & it opened from the front. Here's the final resting place & how the front all goes together.

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The "gap" which remains now, the amount of clearance at the air conditioning box with the lid open. The space between the box & the cabin with the lid closed is about an inch, which allows the lid to swing into the upright position. Just sayin' to be careful how you mount the box & what clearance you have when it's in place. Mine would need a feeler gauge to measure the gap at this point, but it's there & it works. The box is welded to the frame, not attached to the cabin. The lid has a piano hinge welded in place.

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Build log: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60248
The time you spend planning is more important than the time you spend building.........

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Re: Tounge box connection points/design.

Postby booyah » Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:29 am

my tongue box was the 99 dollar northern tool one. Been really nice.

Had to mount it about 2" away from the front wall of the camper though so the top could open without rubbing on the wall. looks a little odd at first glance, but not bad
My build, 5x8 modified benroy "Smiles to go". Started April 2nd 2015, first trip August 2nd 2015.

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