Propane Lines & Fittings

[Vedette]

I have been reading all I can under the plumbing and propane to find out what will be my best avenue for plumbing propane lines in Kermit.
Please share what you are proud of, if you think yours is the best way to go?
I would like to hear from Shadow Catcher.......as you seemed to do the most homework on this subject while building CR.
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi

[MtnDon]

What devices do you want to operate?

[Vedette]

My thoughts are as follows:
5lb propane tank in the front compartment c/w a flex hose to a fitting that would have a quick connect for a propane fire (normally hooked directly to the propane bottle) Ting off to the pipe that will run full length to the rear of the TD.
At that point I would like another T fitting with two outlets(quick connects), one to plug in my Coleman Stove, and the other to plug in the Fire pit at the Galley end of the teardrop.
That's it.
Brian

[noseoil]

Brian, not sure mine is the best, but at least it works. You'll need to run higher line pressures since the common regulators don't provide enough pressure with an 11" WC output for a regular (1# bottle-fed type of Coleman stove). I just went to an industrial hose supplier near us (hydraulic & LPG lines, fork lifts) for mine, in front at the bottle & at the stove. Had them make up the fittings & swage ends for the lengths I needed to use. I have a Q.D. "T" fitting in the line at the back, for an extra tap if necessary. I just told them what I wanted to hook up & they did the work so it was easy to install (fixed ends, swivel ends, etc.) and the setup was very simple.

I run with 30 PSI in my line, but only when stopped & set up. Otherwise, everything is off & there's no pressure on anything except the bottle when moving around. Here's the hard line done with 1/2" black pipe & regular pipe hangers welded in place for support.

Rough-in



The "T" under the frame at the galley



With a bracket to keep off the road debris.

[lrrowe]

Noseoil, I did mine on my own similar to yours. But I am going to finish off many of the to be added connectors like yours. I will try your mounting methods also. I think it looks great and professional.

[Shadow Catcher]

Ours came with "black iron" but the drop below the axle was just waiting to catch a rock. RVIA standards call for black iron but allow copper and in looking for examples came on the fact that Airstream's used copper. On top of this I ordered an external gas point from Bulfinch in the UK which came with a copper compression fitting which EU standards allow.
Standards are often driven by, 'we have done it this way forever' and it is cheap and...
I switched to copper using flared fittings and each year I bubble test for leaks. All of the unions are underneath the trailer so I can inspect them and any leak will dissipate downward, propane unlike natural gas is heavier than air.
We travel with the gas off, and one test, if I hear a gas flow when turned back on I know I have a leak. There is a certain amount of "effusion" of propane through the hose which is only notable over a long time, when first opening the valve after winter storage. I will need to replace the rubber hoses, transition from regulator to pipe and pipe to stove top. The life span is about five to ten years depending on who you listen to.

[Dale M.]

Probably been noted elsewhere before, but if using quick disconnects be sure they are for natural gas/propane type.... NOT compresses air fittings. There is a big difference is quality...

Dale

[lrrowe]

Thanks Dale. I did not know that.

[Vedette]

Thanks guys.
As I have weight concerns (thinking about weight reduction at every step of this build) I am leaning toward 3/8" copper for my main supply line, front to rear. Flared fittings. 3 Quick connects in total. One up front on a T where my main tank supply comes in, a two at the galley end (one for my stove and one for our Gas Fire Pit).
Note:
My old Coleman stove has a regulator in the hose that hooks directly to a 1lb bottle, and I have a short adaptor hose that I use when I hook onto the 5lb bottle.
At the front I plan to have a short flex hose from the T in the hard line to the 5lb bottle so it can be detached right at the bottle for filling.
It id the HP & LP & line thickness, and floe requirements that I want to get right, before I purchase and install.
Thanks
Brian

[capnTelescope]

Here's my propane system from tank to stove:

Tank and regulator:

The regulator takes pressure down to 30 psi. Ratchet strap through 4 D-rings holds the tank down. The tank sits in a plastic base. Disconnect propane before towing!

From there, the regulator hose tees into the piping:

It's half-inch black iron pipe.

One end of the tee heads aft. :


The other end plumbs to an exterior quick disconnect that juts out of the tongue box:


In the galley, the pipe comes up through the floor:


Into a rubber hose...


That connects at the back end of the stove slideout...

... to the appliance's regulators.

The stove and oven work just fine with the 30psi propane feed. You can probably run most propane appliances that don't have the big regulatormy Little Red Campfire wants to be hooked direct to the tank.

[capnTelescope]

As I have weight concerns (thinking about weight reduction at every step of this build) I am leaning toward 3/8" copper for my main supply line, front to rear.

The iron pipe has the greater weight. 3/8" copper should work fine for the high pressure lines. For short connections to your appliances, regular rubber propane hose should work just fine. Flared fittings are the way to go.

[Vedette]

Thanks Brad
Your set up confirms what I was thinking.
Glad to hear it works for you!
Merry Christmas
Brian & Sandi