

Al Swope wrote:Do you have a 7 pin or 4 pin connector to your truck? 7 pin would have constant power available but you would have to stay hooked up. The 4 pin trailer set up gets the 12v for interior lights typically from the tail lights (brown wire), so you have to have the trucks lights on to have power in the trailer. What to you mean by "plugged into the power source"? Do you mean Shore power or the truck?
pokefrog wrote:Thanks for the reply. I.have a electric cable that come out of the camper and I can plug it up at the campground. I want the just the lights inside the trailer to come on when I'm plugged in to the campground. I have a 7 pin connector for my truck and trailer. But I would still love for the lights to work while plugged into truck also. Is this possible? Im not very experienced with electric if you can tell.
McDave wrote:Hello pokefrog and welcome.
First let me just say that is a beautiful trailer! That thing is sexier than my '57 Nomad!
OK, Do you have an owners manual? Might come in handy at some point, so see if you can get one from your dealer or the manufacturer. To run 12v LED lites from shore power, (probably 120vac, 30 amp in your case, I see you have a rooftop A/C, hence the power cord) you will need at the least a 120vac to 12vdc converter, and a fuse box (12v). Also the converter will need to have a fuse or breaker. You could make the LEDs work with an onboard 12v battery, that is charged from the tow vehicle, but the useable time between charges will be limited. LEDs typically draw 3amps each (per hour).
The "right" solution for you depends on your intended use for the RV. If you are going to "camp" 3-4 weekends a year. in a KOA type setting, all you need is a converter. If you plan to be self sufficient in the "boonies" for weeks at a time, well that's a whole different ball of wax. Like I said, that is a beautiful rig, and if you are going to convert it, do it right.
I would suggest a "power center" made for RVs. Progressive Dynamics (PD4045) or WFCO (8955) also Atwood makes one.
These will give the best all around power options and protection to start with. These will get you a 120ac and 12vdc capability, and fused DC circuts and AC breakers. They will convert shore power(120ac) to 12vdc as well as charge batteries.
This gives you the option to expand in the future, refrig, TVs, heaters, pumps, microwave, onboard battery bank, etc. etc.
This site is the place to get all your questions answered, Just hang around and you could learn something new everyday.
I would suggest to gain a solid base of knowledge, make a list of wants/needs, draw up a floor plan, (or 2, or 3) and a realistic budget before going in whole hog. These conversions can be as complex or simple as you want, but a good plan is always a good place to start.
Welcome to the madness! Good luck and have fun.
McDave
OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:Hello pokefrog
Let me keep it simple. The exact same plug that is on the back of your truck you can buy at Kragen or Grand Auto or walmart for $10.
Now wire that 7 way plug into your trailer & you will have 7 wires, one wire will be a ground and the other six will be for your interior lights, your running lights, a battery charge wire, a elec brake wire, your right and left blinkers / stop lights etc.
I have this set up exactly and can control all 6 trailer functions without my truck. These wires are then run through switches & fuses to your 12 volt power source , battery, converter , solar etc.
You can choose to just wire up your interior lights, or wire up all six functions. If you install a flasher circuit / relay for example your trailer can park without your truck and flash warning emergency lights, you could also lock up the breaks if your inside & someone trys to tow your trailer off. I have mine also wired for a back up alarm, horns & other flashing lights - but you can keep it as simple as you like.
When you leave the camp ground you unplug the trailer cord & plug into your truck , easy peasy. .....
Cheers ottct
http://overthetopcargotrailer.blogspot.com/
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