cabin weight

[KA]

Hi,
Do any of you builders out there have an idea of how much a finished teardrop trailer cabin (not counting the chassis) with cabinets, and an average amount of camping stuff weighs? Or, in other words, how can you tell if a chassis is strong enough for the built components and gear that you stuff, bolt, tile, pile, etc. on it?
I hope I haven't missed this topic already covered somewhere in the forum (which is fabulous).
Thanks.
Kris

[Ira]

Hi, Kris.

Man, that's kind of hard to answer when you consider how differently everyone builds. That's why a lot of guys are always paying attention to weight in every component of their build.

And why other guys like me just built on a Harbor Freight bolt-together trailer, and more or less followed plans that should keep the build well within the trailer's capacity. My chassis, for example, has a max load of around 1175 pounds, and I better be under that or I'm gonna die.

Don't know what you have in mind, but if you tell the guys here your trailer's capacity, they'll tell you whether you have to be worried about it all. You can build these TDs surprisngly light, but first, you want to know your trailer's load capacity.

The max tongue weight for your towing vehicle is a DIFFERENT story.

However, ANYONE on this site can give you the exact weight of their shell without the trailer. All they have to do is take their trailer weight (on the title), total weight, and look at the difference.

If I ever finish mine, I'll tell you what that is!

[Bandit]

There are many variations to a TD (Benroy, WeekEnder, 4X8, 5X8, 5X10).
But, typically most builders will use a 2,000lbs or less axle. The issues you run into in using too heavy of an axle is the unforgiving ride. The heavier axles would be such a rough ride that you would toss everything in the TD that was not tied down.
I am in the process of building a 5'X9.5' WeekEnder and I am using a 2,000 lb. axle with 3,500 lb. hubs as I wanted the stronger hubs and also the ability to add trailer brakes in the future. (Not that Trailer Brakes are necessary, but more for limiting wear on a smaller tow vehicle).

Good Luck!

[KA]

Thanks Bandit and Ira,
I'm considering several options in my teardrop adventure and you gave me some more things to ponder. The more I investigate, the more questions pop into my brain and the more I think I need to know before I make decisions.
I do hope to start within the month and really appreciate all of you folks who are willing to share experiences and advice.
Thanks a bunch.
KA

[angib]

Here's my weight estimate (only an estimate, but very detailed - each piece of wood is measured) of a Modernistic type trailer, 10ft long by 4ft wide by 4ft high.



The body construction is double-skin throughout, but reasonably light (1/4"+1/8" sides, 1/8"+1/8" roof, 3/8"+1/4" floor). The 250lb payload is just a WAG - the body and fittings weights are more accurate. Fitout includes a battery, but no water or propane tanks.

Andrew

[KA]

Thanks Andrew,
You are amazing! This is very helpful information.
Kris

[asianflava]

Your laden weight is very close to my 5X10 when I had it weighed (1220lbs). The only things I didn't have in the trailer at the time were gear (EZ-up and misc shelters) clothing, sheets, and food.

I did use 1/8"+1/8" sandwich panels throughout, including the bulkheads and shelving.

[KA]

Thank you Asianflava!
I wish to buy or build a similar size, so your info is much appreciated.
KA

[Ira]

Hey, Kris...

Are you familiar with this barbecue place in Olympia that's run by 2 women? I saw something about them on the food channel.

And guys--this ISN'T off-topic. Ribs can add to your weight too.

And if Tiki Dude ever comes back, you'll be happy to know he's from Olympia too,

[KA]

Hi Ira,
Sorry, I haven't tried that place yet. Must be good, tho.
Kris

[Ira]

Have you heard about it though?

The gals are supposed to be great rib and other smokers, having competed in competitions and either winning or being right up there.

[KA]

Hi Ira,
No, I haven't heard about it. Doesn't mean it isn't still here, tho. I'll ask around.
Kris

[Mike Spicer]

Kris

I used a 3500# axel for the heavy hubs & bearings (for pot holes and gravel roads). Used 2000# springs for a better ride. My Tear is 4x10 but is pretty heavy. 1400# unloaded. that means I could put 600# of gear in it. I could change the springs to 2500# or higher if I wanted to carry more weight.
If You plan on going off road my recomendation would be 3500# axel.
Also remember You need to add the weight of the frame, axel, cabin and camping equipment to come up with the Gross Vehical weight Restriction (GVWR). The maxium You put on Axel, springs and tires.

Check out this thread
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=9133

Mike

[KA]

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the info. I do plan to take my teardrop on bumpy roads. The information you posted is very helpful to this newbie.
I'll check out the link, too.
Kris
p.s. The picture of your teardrop trailer looks really nice.

[Woody]

I used a 3500# axle with a lighter spring package (1150#) and have had no problem with bouncing or hard ride. I did find that the weight of the load can change dramatically from one camping situation to another. When we camp closer to home you tend to bring lots of extra stuff vs. a long hual camping you tend to travel lighter to kept the cabin open the take a nap on the road or whatever else comes to mind . Well thats aleast what happens to us