What kind of sticks would you build with?

[fm-usa]

When I was (much) younger I worked at several different lumber yards.
Several times I've noticed when a new mfg of lumber is ordered from, the first several shipments are pristine and look like the pix above. After a while the usual grade (lower quality) filters in.

Back in the 70's a bundle of 1x6x12 ft cedar came in. As I was stocking it nearly every board looked cloned. The "Fire Grain" looked like it was photo'd onto every board also that "Fire Grain" had 5 distinctly different reds! On top of that every board was much lighter than the usual stock. Thinking on it now, I wonder if we got someone else's shipment, it was that odd.

Well, at that time I had no use for it but wondered if I should buy that stack for future use.
(40 years later) Now that I'm building up a Teardrop style trailer.... OH MAN, if only...

[Big Pavel]

All good day!
  I have two questions before you start to build a tear drop.
  1. What is the thickness of the plywood you normally use for the side walls.
  2. Have you tried to use heat-treated tree for sticks?
I work with a terrace board and now often build terraces of heat-treated wood. It is reliable, stable, very light tree.

[fm-usa]

All good day!
  I have two questions before you start to build a tear drop.
  1. What is the thickness of the plywood you normally use for the side walls.
  2. Have you tried to use heat-treated tree for sticks?
I work with a terrace board and now often build terraces of heat-treated wood. It is reliable, stable, very light tree.

heat-treated tree ???
Never heard that phrase before.
What is it?
Pix?

OH! You mean Kiln Dried?

[Big Pavel]

It's hard to say how it will be in English. Second name "thermomodified" tree.
Here is a Finnish company with which I work. Perhaps the description on their website will help you understand what I'm saying.
http://www.suomenlampopuu.com/en/slp-thermowood/#

[fm-usa]

That process appears to be a different kind of Kiln Dried Wood.
It's very odd they use steam to dry out wood to 4%.

OK, I get it now. They're shortening the time to 'partly petrify' or an early stage of petrified wood.
Interesting but the wood will still be heavy.

[Big Pavel]

During the heat treatment of wood properties vary under the influence of high temperatures (about 160-215 ° C). During the heat treatment process the wood is heated to temperatures above auto-ignition temperatures, while protective gas is steam. Wood becomes durable to moisture, bark beetles and is not subject to torsion. My firm is engaged in construction of swimming pools and we use heat-treated decking around the pool. This is a very good choice.

[fm-usa]

Thanks, that was interesting.

[Big Pavel]

1. What is the thickness of the plywood you normally use for the side walls.

But the question remained unanswered.

[tony.latham]

1. What is the thickness of the plywood you normally use for the side walls.

But the question remained unanswered.

I've used 3/4" and 1/2". I build with the Steve Fredrick's inside-out method (leaving a lip for the ceiling) and find the 1/2" surface is a bit thin for attaching to that area. You can remove more wood from 3/4" skeleton to meet the same weight as a skeleton made from 1/2".

Tony

[Big Pavel]

Thank you!

[pchast]

It depends on their use.... of course.

I used:
Western red cedar, very light for the strength- rafters and door edge, window support.
(cut with a vertical grain, quarter sawn, and no run-out.)
Old Douglas Fir, very hard and 'not heavy'' - some of the blocking for attachments.
Oak, hard and heavy for hinge attachment to the doors.

I likely used more wood, weight, than I needed in the foamy.

[fm-usa]

It depends on their use.... of course.

I used:
Western red cedar, very light for the strength- rafters and door edge, window support.
(cut with a vertical grain, quarter sawn, and no run-out.)
Old Douglas Fir, very hard and 'not heavy'' - some of the blocking for attachments.
Oak, hard and heavy for hinge attachment to the doors.

I likely used more wood, weight, than I needed in the foamy.

AHHhhh, bet it feels solid.

[tony.latham]

I've built sandwiched walls using 1x4" pine, 3/4" AC, and 1/2" AC for the skeleton.









I'll lay it right out on the carpet: Building a skeleton frame is much easier and quicker using plywood than "sticks". At least for me.

Tony

[fm-usa]

I've built sandwiched walls using 1x4" pine, 3/4" AC, and 1/2" AC for the skeleton.
I'll lay it right out on the carpet: Building a skeleton frame is much easier and quicker using plywood than "sticks". At least for me. Tony

Looks good. But I need as ultra light as possible... towing behind a GoldWing.
I wonder... 3/4 ply and router out the frame and leave 2 plys for the skin and fill with spray-foam? Interior skin will be PMF. LOT of waste for sure and probably several router bits. Even Carbide don't stand up well to glue joints.

I see your using TB and it has it's places. But on open surfaces, I'm a fan of 2 coats min. Sanding Sealer brush/roll.

[tony.latham]

I see your using TB and it has it's places. But on open surfaces, I'm a fan of 2 coats min. Sanding Sealer brush/roll.

I've been using PVA glues for 45 years and have yet to have a failure. What are you using sanding sealer for in a glue up?

And what size trailer are you building if you're pulling it from a goldwing?

Tony