by KA » Fri Jun 16, 2006 3:17 pm
Hi All,
Thanks for the weight information. You all have been very generous and knowledgeable. Your teardrops all look really great, too.
The information you have provided is starting percolate into my not-so-mechanical, teardrop-novice mind, and I actually am beginning to understand the issues involved with this part of a build. I like the idea of buying an axle big enough to go on bumpy roads and a spring light enough to keep the trailer from driving me. Since I might want to add a bike rack and maybe a kayak rack, it seems like a 3500 pound axle would be the right choice for me.
If a person made the wrong choice in spring size and found the trailer to be too bouncy or too rigid, is it difficult to switch out once the build is complete (assuming you survive the bouncing)?
If I were to finish a generic Benroy 5x10, with an aluminum top(insulated), marine canvas sides on plywood (not insulated), plywood floor with tar or other bottom coat (insulated), wood doors, a bike rack for 2 bikes, and a kayak rack for 2 kayaks (I could put the kayaks on the car), and plan to go on bumpy roads, does anyone have an idea if I should use a 2000 or 1150 spring (or something inbetween if available) with a 3500 axle? I'll tow it either with my Subaru Outback (this might be iffy due to weight), or with my Jeep Cherokee.
Also, if I want to put a top carrier on the trailer cabin, should I weld some vertical steel supports to the trailer chassis or is the plywood construction with cabinet bulkhead enough. ..maybe an extra cross-brace or two?
Thanks again for the advice. You folks are greatly appeciated.
Kris