JmsCaverly wrote:I did change both sides, I figured I would just start fresh and have another go at it and this way if they need to be changed in the future I'll just change them all and not worry about which ones are good and bad.
JmsCaverly wrote:Elm are you going to make it to the Shasta event?
noseoil wrote:I think it would be safer to install it in a flat area of the roof. Too many problems on a curve for a good fit over time. The only other way I can see would be to make a "curb" or spigot in the curve that provides a flat mounting surface on the outside, a box made to fit the curve which has a flat mounting area on the outside & seals along the curve.
ELM wrote:The star gazer windows I've seen put on a the curved part of the roof look like a leak waiting to happen to me. And if it's put on the flat part of the roof I would think the window would have water sitting or trapped on the glass. That's my 2 cents for what it's worth. Did you make it to Shasta lake.
KCStudly wrote:I would call that raised box thing a "church" or a "chase". You might get away with having the church go to almost zero thickness near the tangent point of the radius just to try and keep it somewhat streamlined looking, assuming that the window clamp rings are of similar thickness to your walls. Another thing to look out for is creating a ledge on the top lip where water might tend to settle. If you shape the perimeter of the church so that the top is peaked, the water will run to the sides and off.
Regardless, go to the effort to make a template of the church profile to give you an idea of how much the window will stick out above the surface, and whether you like what that will do to the lines of your profile. I think at least one builder reversed this, by creating a flat spot between two points on the curve and recessing the sides near the ends of the window frame.
You did install framing for this window before skinning, didn't you?
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