7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

I ordered a 6000BTU Air Conditioner tonight. Hopefully will get that installed in the next few weeks so I'll be able to work inside the trailer in cool air. The fun will be starting on the inside in a few weeks. 6000 BTU should cool 250sq ft well and 18*7 Vnose is slightly less than 140sq ft... albeit not as well insulated as a home should be. I think it will do fine. A 5000 BTU may do it just fine... but there was not really any difference in the price and the size was only a few inches different and only required 100mA less current (4.9A vs 4.8A)

I need the air conditioner on hand in any case to fit the shelf and necessary fittings. I am going to try to make the fittings/seals adjustable so when the AC breaks, I can toss it for a new one which may vary slightly in Length, Width, or Height.

[Iconfabul8]

Did you keep the Honda 2000? Or are you upgrading the generator to run the bigger AC? My trailer is on order and the only thing I haven't decided on, is the AC placement. So i am watching with interest. Has anyone else that you know of done an AC install similar to this?

[flboy]

I am keeping the Honda. It will run this fine. The AC I selected only draws 4.9amps when on.

The method I am using to install this AC is done in smaller RVs alot. I am not sure what materials they use since I have not taken one apart. I'll take some detailed pics when I install the AC in a few weeks. Good luck with yours.

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[flboy]

I didn't have much time tonight, but I did get the Hot Water tank mostly insulated. I need to get a small piece of fiberglass insulation and some cardboard , and some packing tape to seal this all up and then cut an access for the thermostat and thermal breaker I installed for the electric element. I am letting the expanding foam set up tonight. This tank will be better insulated than the original thin layer of fiberglass and cardboard I took off when I removed it from the donor camper. That will definitely help with the propane, and/or electric consumption.

[McDave]

Keeps hot water hot, keeps heat out of cabin. Win/Win.
Davey likey!



McDave

[flboy]

Yes... that is the general idea.Thanks.

I just hope I never have to remove this tank. If so, will have to destroy the insulation and do it again. When I got done spraying in the foam, I realized the insulation and foam is wider than the installation hole. Odds are slim in any case, all the stuff that breaks on these are on the outside. The tank itself would have to fail to actually remove it. In that case, I'd be replacing it anyhow.

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[flboy]

Gave the AC a dry run with the Honda EU2000i today. It powers the 6000BTU fine in normal mode; however, the inductive current inrush on the compressor motor causes it to kick out when the Generator is in Eco Mode.The Generator can't react and throttle up quick enough. The the AC sees a voltage sag and assumes low voltage and kicks the low voltage relay and turns the compressor back off. It is built in brown out protection. When the compressor is running, I can put the generator back in Eco Mode and the Generator runs slightly above idle. The AC only draws 500 watts running, but the initial/start up current draw can be as high as 3 to 5 times the running current.

There are some "soft start" capacitors in the aftermarket you can add to the Air conditioners. I may buy one and see if it works. It would really be nice to leave the generator in Eco mode. It will use probably only about a third of the fuel. We'll see. I guess it is worth a try. I will have to cut some wires and modify the circuitry inline with the compressor motor which I am sure will void the warranty. That being the case, I may give it some use before I mess with it.

[flboy]

I started the insulation in the ceiling. When I get this part done, I will be putting in furring strips to attach the Luan plywood to later and then adding another layer of insulation between the strips for ~R10 total in the ceiling. The hot Florida sun is not forgiving. I will only do one R5 layer on the sides. The door side will have an awning to keep the sun off... In any case.. It should be well insulated and sealed.

You may notice the black paint up front. The trailer builders do not really treat the bare metal carefully and every trailer I have ever opened up or saw opened up, had rust on the studs. They just don't paint them well. While it is all apart, it is easy to spray them with Rustoleum Rust Stop Primer. The front took two cans, so I may need about 8 more for the sides. I'll also be removing the floor wood and brushing on a thick coat of rustoleum all over the chassis and also sealing the wood on the bottom with marine varnish before re-installing. They did not treat that well either and I don't want my floor rotting out over time. This stuff is easy while it is deconstructed..... and relatively cheap, even though time consuming. Hope I am not over doing it.

More pics to come as I progress.

[lrrowe]

If you are like me, there is no such thing as over doing it. I just built a small drywall false wall in our lower level and my wife Says I over built it as usual. I think I will copy your lead and test my AC using my new Yamaha 2000. What the heck.

[flboy]

If you are like me, there is no such thing as over doing it. I just built a small drywall false wall in our lower level and my wife Says I over built it as usual. I think I will copy your lead and test my AC using my new Yamaha 2000. What the heck.

I do tend to overbuild things. But that is one reason I decided to build this camper myself... I really want it to last aside from the fact I get exactly what I want.

[flboy]

I added another panel or so to the ceiling tonight, painted some more studs with rustoleum, and finished putting additional Dicor sealer over all the seams along the outside perimeter of the roof. My goal is to get the ceiling finished with furring strips by the weekend and start on the walls and wiring.

I had a thought and would like to get a few opinions:

The plywood that came on the walls is only 3/8 in thick. My understanding is that it is part of the structure to "hold things" together, but I need to put paneling up over it in any case. 3/8 in plywood provides virtually no insulation benefit and all that plywood is heavy. I was thinking of welding 3" wide by 1/8" thick metal bands (2 on each side, front to back) with equal distance between the bands and roof and floor for structural strength and then just putting up the paneling with no plywood backing. The main reason is to save the weight. Anyone have any thoughts on whether that is a bad idea? I will have the R5 insulation in the wall between the studs and then the Paneling.

Really, the plywood seems like junk being 3/8" and the countersunk screws into it which many time completely penetrated the plywood. Just poor workmanship.


A view with poor lighting. :-)

[lrrowe]

My instincts say that just one band, even if welded, 1/2 the way up the height of the uprights make not be as effective as the not so great factory 3/8" panels in preventing what I call "racking" of the sides (meaning twisting the 90 degree parallelogram into a non 90 degree trazepoid). But two bands, each 1/3 and 2/3's the way up the uprights just might work. Does this make sense?

[flboy]

My instincts say that just one band, even if welded, 1/2 the way up the height of the uprights make not be as effective as the not so great factory 3/8" panels in preventing what I call "racking" of the sides (meaning twisting the 90 degree parallelogram into a non 90 degree trazepoid). But two bands, each 1/3 and 2/3's the way up the uprights just might work. Does this make sense?

I think that makes sense. I was thinking two bands also as noted... but I am not sure how much the the "racking" or "twisting" stress is on the trailer. The bands should help... That wood seems like it would loosen up over time, whereas the welded metal bands make is all one solid piece.

[Iconfabul8]

Diagonally would give the most strength. A cross from corner to corner of even 3/4 X 1/8 would be amazingly strong.

[KCStudly]

The thing is you would be giving up the diaphragm and shear effect of the panel with all of its mounting points.

It is always difficult to re-engineer a thing when you don't understand the criteria on which it was designed in the first place. What were the loads and directions of the loads that were considered in the original design? How have those loads changed based on the changes in configuration that have been made and the intended usage?

A thin metal strap will buckle much more readily than a 3/8 thk plywood panel. The strap will only be good in tension, whereas the ply is good in tension, compression, torsion, bending, shear and diaphragm effect.