I spent most of the weekend wiring the teardrop and made good progress. All that remains is to run the 8 gauge wire to the car, wire the hatch after I build it, and wire the running lights under the trailer.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142145)
PD 4045, a 12-volt outlet, and a 110-volt GFCI outlet are located under the dog kennel. I ran an extension of this 110 circuit to the storage area under the air conditioner. This is where I'll plug in the A/C.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142146)
The battery is stored behind the door. I'll tidy this up when I remove shore power and the PD 4045 to install the aluminum skin. The grounding bus is in view. I also wired in a 30-amp fuse between the PD 4045 and the battery.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142147)
A 110-volt GFCI outlet and a 12-volt outlet service the galley. The wires run up the left side wall into the ceiling.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142148)
We're quite pleased with this marine LED dome light with touch control.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142149)
The dome light also switches between white and red. We're installing one of these in the galley lid. Supposedly bugs are less attracted to red light.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142150)
The LED reading lights cast just the right amount of light and are cool to the touch. This picture also shows my mistake on the walls. I didn't smooth the curve prior to routing the ledge. This created small gaps where the ceiling meets the wall. I'm going to experiment with a narrow, colored caulk bead throughout the camper to mask imperfections and seal things up better.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142155)
View from galley. I ran a ground line to each circuit. The two porch lamps share a circuit and the reading lamps/cabin dome light also share a circuit. Junctions are soldered, secured with a wire nut, and taped. Splices are soldered, heat shrinked, and taped.
I ops checked the exhaust fan and discovered the remote doesn't work to increase the fan speed. That' a non-starter since the manual controls are located above and behind the air conditioner and almost impossible to reach. We'll see how timely warranty support is with these Max Fans...
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142151)
Porch light junction.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142152)
Cabin dome light junction. I pocket screwed a piece of 1/2" plywood to support the light on this flat span.
I had this wired last night and realized that I had no slack for future light repair/replacement. I removed the wiring and fixture, cut a bigger access hole, rewired, and coiled the extra slack in the larger hole. Now I can make any future repairs without having to remove the roof!
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142154)
View of reading light junction.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142153)
Wired with repair slack.
![Image](https://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=4277&image_id=142156)
Slack tucked into fixture. Notice how I reinforced the area for mounting the light. I cut two layers of 1/8" plywood, applied polyurethane glue from a caulk tube, and held things in place over night with clamps set on the edge of the roof spar. It worked well.