Progressive Dynamics PD4045 install

[noseoil]

Here's what we have.

[blentz]

Thanks, you just finished up some design issues I was having. I'm thinking my galley will look a lot like this.

[David Olson]

Thanks for all the great info in this thread.
I flipped the switch today on my PD4135 and bingo all is good.

[pirijodonny]

This thread has helped me a ton! Thank you! I am just about done wiring my AC and DC lines in my Cargo Trailer conversion and ready to connect them to the PD4045. I have taken the walls down and want to make sure I have everything wired right and it works before I insulate and put the walls up. What have you all been doing to test? I don't have a 30 amp source, only 15 amp to plug into at home. I don't want to move it before I put the walls back up (just paranoia on my part). I have a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter. I was going to plug in and just test one circuit at a time. What do you experts say?

Thanks again.

[noseoil]

That's really the best way to do it. Check each circuit individually. You don't need 30 amps (we use 15 only & we're fine with what we have) available for just the testing part. If each branch is good, then you did it right & it works.

I did the same thing for the 12 volt stuff. A small alarm panel battery (1.3 amp hours) with 2 alligator clips is my "test equipment" for each circuit. If it works, just hook it to the panel.

It's still just one at a time stuff for electrical. I wouldn't want to wire everything up to see if it works when it's done!

[antalog]

Yeah, this was an amazing thread. Thanks to everyone who posted helpful info in it! It looks like H.A. opted to remove some of his info. Bummer cause every bit helps I reckon, but I understand (Ive read some of the electricity 'conflicts' here )

Either way, thank you for this!

...Sticky?

[Mel's Way]

Why install the black pos. from the inverter to the non-supplied bus bar? As shown in the colored diagram. Why not directly to the 15 amp. breaker? (Red circle shows the non-supplied bus bar.) Is the bus bar needed for other necessary applications? I will also supply a photo of my actual new product still in the box showing there is no bus bar installed. Thank you for clarification; I don't want to do this incorrectly. MEL

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[absolutsnwbrdr]

That's interesting that they no longer supply a hot bus bar. At the time I made the wiring diagram, the black, white, and green wires to the converter were already terminated at their respective bus bars, so I just made a short jumper wire from that hot bus bar to the breaker.

Since it appears Progressive Dynamics is cutting back and trying to save $0.31 cents per unit and no longer supplying the hot buss bar, your black wire from your converter will go directly to the breaker, as you described. This will be good information if other people discover the same scenario.

[Boreal]

All of your 12V accessories & lights then get their negative wires tied to the ground bar.

Where is the DC ground bar? I see the AC gound bar, but where is the ground for DC?

[GuitarPhotog]

All of your 12V accessories & lights then get their negative wires tied to the ground bar.

Where is the DC ground bar? I see the AC gound bar, but where is the ground for DC?

You need to provide it.

<Chas>

[absolutsnwbrdr]

All of your 12V accessories & lights then get their negative wires tied to the ground bar.

Where is the DC ground bar? I see the AC gound bar, but where is the ground for DC?

You need to provide it.

<Chas>

Yup. I have this one... https://www.amazon.com/Common-Ground-Br ... 06X9ZGY2W/

[Boreal]

Yup. I have this one... https://www.amazon.com/Common-Ground-Br ... 06X9ZGY2W/

Plastic base. So I'll screw it onto a wood bulkhead, run my white wires of my DC circuits to it, and also run a line back from my PD unit, from the Black negative to the bus.

Question: Is it absolutely necessary to lay out a line from negative battery/Black to my metal trailer frame?