Esteban wrote:haha49, It is a little hard to clearly understand what you wrote. It seems you want to use your teardrop for winter time camping in Canada. If I were in your shoes I'd do my best to insulate your teardrop as best as you can to help keep heat inside and to reduce condensation on cold surfaces.
Readily available rigid foam board insulation varies from about R 3.5 per inch of thickness up to about R 8 per inch.
Foam Board Insulation R Values By Todd Fratzel on Insulation will provide you more information to choose what type of foam board to best meet your needs.
Expanded Polystyrene Foam has an R value of 3.6 to 4.0 per inch of thickness.
Extruded Polystyrene Foam (XPS) has an R value of 4.5 to 5.0 per inch of thickness.
Polyisocyanurate and Polyurethane (Polyiso) has an R value of 7.0 to 8.0 per inch of thickness. It often has a foil face too.
You also might choose to use the more efficient
Model 7350 13 speed Fantastic (Fan) Vent that uses much less power than all the other 3 speed Fantastic Vents.
cellphone typing sucks... Hate auto correct auto fill in crap.
I'm just going to use the hard pink foam at the store It's not much R valve but some is better then none. I plan od using plywood on the bottom foam then rasing the bed for storage and putting the heating under the bed. It also makes running lines for propane or diesel easyier. Debating between propane and diesel up north both are a pain to get but do able. I wanted a toaster over to cook thinks like a small pizza but I could do that in a dutch oven wanted to save on fuel by doing it that way instead of the dutch oven. It seems that you can get some nice diesel stoves for cooking I might go that route it takes more space then propane but you can haul more fuel for the space and weight for diesel. I'll just end up installing the tank under the bed if I go that route. For propane it would be on the hitch up front.
So really my power demands have shrunk abit. I still want a 12v fridge/freezer (car one) Cellphone, laptop, and cameras. I can do that all in the car just one at a time while it's running. So what 12v fridge freezer works well and has low power demands for the size? Still unsure on how much power I need it seems like it might be a simple 300w system. Wont be running everything at once anyways. I want the battery to be charged up so I can run the freezer all night the lights power draw is tiny 7w each don't use lights allot so that's like nothing. It's hard to figure out if you haven't picked the gear.
Now diesel or propane for heating and cooking. I don't plan on heating water I'm going with a simple jug of water from the store with a manual pump that clips on top. simple cheap and easy. For shower I'm going with a backpacking shower I can just heat water up and hang the bag. Extra water will be hauled in the car. The sink is going to be a plastic container because I don't want to waste the space putting a sink in. So next question would be how many amp hours for a standard 12v fridge freezer (car one) to run 24hours none stop. As well as how much solar to make up for cloudy/rainy days.
found this info
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http://www.australiandirect.com.au/buying/portable-fridges/portable-fridge-power-consumption-guide/10
For an example: Estimating an average from just the current draw of your Evakool portable fridge, and not taking into account any of the above factors. If the current draw of your Evakool Fibreglass 110L fridge/freezer is 5 Amps (60 Watts) while the compressor is running, then on a average day cycling 50% of the time you would be consuming approx 60 amps (720 Watts). ((5A x 50%) x 24hrs = 60 amps)