7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

A little more progress today. I got in ceiling panel #3 today. Two more to try and get done during the evenings this week, then I start flooring.

I'll trim the ceiling and give it a good finish coat of paint when walls are up and etc. nearer to the end of the build.

[flboy]

I had the forum administration move this over from build journals to the cargo trailer conversion folder. Seemed more appropriate here. :-)

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[flboy]

I got one more ceiling panel in last night and managed to get the holes in the correct spot using x,y measurements. One more panel in the V-Nose and I start the flooring :-)

I still have to remove the temporary rail and finish trim; however, I will wait to trim it out until after I have the walls and cabinets framed in. That will happen within a few weeks I hope.

[aggie79]

Don,

I bet it feels good to be "closing it up". The ceiling panels turned out great.

Take care,
Tom

[m.colley]

looking good there Don. Mine's coming along decently too. I ought to have my lower cabinets finished before the end of the week.


Martin

[flboy]

Tom and Martin. . Thanks. It does feel good to be closing it up. So much work goes into getting it this far. The finish work makes me the most anxious. I am not a carpenter and have no experience building cabinets. This will be a first. I may have a lot of questions. I did buy some tools in anticipation like a good countersink drill bit set and a pocket screw jig. :-) oh.. and some good wood glue.

Edit: actually , I built some very rough cabinets in my first CTC, but I have higher "fit and finish" goals for this one.

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[m.colley]

Tom and Martin. . Thanks. It does feel good to be closing it up. So much work goes into getting it this far. The finish work makes me the most anxious. I am not a carpenter and have no experience building cabinets. This will be a first. I may have a lot of questions. I did buy some tools in anticipation like a good countersink drill bit set and a pocket screw jig. :-) oh.. and some good wood glue.

Edit: actually , I built some very rough cabinets in my first CTC, but I have higher "fit and finish" goals for this one.

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Don,
I understand completely. I'm a pretty good rough carpenter and use to be a good finish carpenter back in the day, then again I had EVERY tool I needed back then too, a rolling wood shop on wheels basically. The finish side has definitely slowed me down some.
The pocket hole jig I bought has been a lifesaver in making the cabinets for this CTC. Deciding on a door style was the hardest thing for me.

I had to make a few changes in my original cabinet design because I moved a few things around at the last minute. I went by the BBS (lowes) yesterday and picked up some more lumber last night to finish my lower doors and start the face frame for the upper cabinets. Hopefully I'll get started on them again tonight.

If pictures will help I'll post some as soon as I can, questions just ask away.

Martin

[flboy]

Yes.. please post some pics. I can use the ideas and help. Many thanks!

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[Camp Wags]

Don, it is looking good with the ceiling panels up. I am running behind you as I am just starting to reapply the wall panels after all the insulation work. Thanks for posting with pics it helps us visualize what we must do. I can't believe how many holes you have put in your trailer. I had two gull wing doors installed in mine so I can be stealth about my electrical and plumbing.

[flboy]

Don, it is looking good with the ceiling panels up. I am running behind you as I am just starting to reapply the wall panels after all the insulation work. Thanks for posting with pics it helps us visualize what we must do. I can't believe how many holes you have put in your trailer. I had two gull wing doors installed in mine so I can be stealth about my electrical and plumbing.

Thanks and you are welcome. In my case, I guess they will figure out the trailer is a camper real quick! LOL... Yes, I wasn't going for the stealth look but more for the dry camping capability, towability, maneuverability in my back yard and other tight spaces, and one of the most important requirements of being able to stop roadside and camp without removing the bike(s) and still having access to all the amenities including the bed.

A lot of my choices were around those ideas... the 60 gallons of FW, 30 gal each HW and BW holding tanks, Solar power, loft bed, the smaller adapted AC unit I can run off a quiet Honda 2000w generator when desired, and the 18ft length with 2' Vnose. I did want it to match well with my White Ford F150 Pickup also that has a lot of Chrome on it. I do plan on camping out West in the National Parks where they often require hard sides due to the grizzlies. I also may end up in Alaska and Canada at some point with it. If I wasn't planning on that... I'd have done the tip out bed thing you have done and not added the extra 1.5 Ft. in height.. maybe just 6 inches. I think that tent bed is awesome and a great use of space.

I really like what you are doing with your build. Very nice plan and unique design. The gull wings doors are a nice touch. I may have missed it in the pictures, but you mentioned you plumbing and electric in context of the gull wing doors. I am not sure what you meant by that.... maybe I missed that in the pictures? Are your hookups and venting on the porch?

[m.colley]

Yes.. please post some pics. I can use the ideas and help. Many thanks!

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Hey Don,
Here's a couple of pics of the inside of the cabinets I'm working on. Hopefully it'll give you a couple of ideas of how I put mine together.The wood strips just below the blue tape is where my counter top will sit. The vertical strip against the blue wall is a nailing strip. My cabinet face frames are pin nailed thru the face frames and into the nailer strip.

Below the PD4045 is a shelf. The shelf is sitting on top of nailer strips attached below it on the trailer wall, the divider panel to the left and a nailer strip attached to the back side of the face frame.

Just in front of the water tank is a nailer strip attached to the floor, it runs the width of the cabinet. As I told you earlier, I didn't build a toe kick space into my cabinets. The face frames sit completely on the floor. The nailer strip keeps the base from kicking in.

This side is done just like the other side

Here's a picture of the dividers. The back edge is beveled to follow the angle of the trailer wall and is nailed into the trailer wall. The front edge is pin nailed through the cabinet face frame and a stile post

I built the cabinets so that the top will be 36" up from the floor which is close to standard height. The top will rest on those nailing strips and the top edge of the face frame and be glued to those nailing strips and face frame with silicone just in case I ever have to take it up for some reason.

I hope this helps you.

Martin

[flboy]

Martin, Thanks for taking the time to provide pics and etc. This is a big help. I am putting in flooring this weekend and should start framing it all out by next weekend with the ceiling and flooring in.

[m.colley]

Martin, Thanks for taking the time to provide pics and etc. This is a big help. I am putting in flooring this weekend and should start framing it all out by next weekend with the ceiling and flooring in.

Glad I could help, its what this community is all about. Good luck with your flooring job, me I took the easy way out and just used a textured deck type paint on my floor. I may rethink it later on but it works for now.

Martin

[flboy]

Martin, Thanks for taking the time to provide pics and etc. This is a big help. I am putting in flooring this weekend and should start framing it all out by next weekend with the ceiling and flooring in.

Glad I could help, its what this community is all about. Good luck with your flooring job, me I took the easy way out and just used a textured deck type paint on my floor. I may rethink it later on but it works for now.

Martin

Thanks.. I should have pics of the floor by tomorrow evening. I am gluing down a rubber diamond plate pattern flooring used in garages over 100% of the floor. When the trailer is near completion, I have wood laminate which I will put down over the rubber floor in the front part of the camper leaving the back garage part just the rubber. The rubber floor will effectively be the underlayment for the laminate in the front living area. I need the rubber floor down so I can start building walls. :-) Tomorrow should be a productive building day.

[flboy]

I got this far today. I have the ramp done and most of the floor. I got a late start and just ran out of time and plus, it is really hot here today and especially inside the trailer rolling on flooring.

I might have said it earlier, but in the Aisle and Kitchen area, I will be installing a wood laminate over this diamond plate flooring. That is intended mostly for the Garage area. It should be a good underlay (moisture barrier) in any case. I think this will look nice once trimmed out with the etrac and tie down hooks installed in the rear floor. I am going to put 24" of Chrome Diamond plate as a kick plate on the ramp. That will all happen when I trim it out.



I have a little more to do up front. Ran out of time today.. plus it is hot and that glue is making me dizzy.