First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

Thanks Sharon!
I have a question for you or anyone who may see: the spars must have been a bit too long and the roof width is 60.25 inches instead of 60 as was intended. My roof materials (3mm birch substrate and aluminum top cover) are 60 wide. So that will be an 1/8 inch on either side not covered. The aluminum trim molding will be 1 inch across and so will cover the gap, and I am using Rv putty under it, but is there anything else I should do to protect the exposed 1/8 inch of ply edge? I have already used the oil based primer and paint over it. I will also ensure it is covered with proline construction adhesive when I install the 3mm Baltic birch sub roof.
I could tape it over using heavy duty duct tape as well. What do you think?
Thanks in advance,
Mariann

[S. Heisley]

Thanks Sharon!
I have a question for you or anyone who may see: the spars must have been a bit too long and the roof width is 60.25 inches instead of 60 as was intended. My roof materials (3mm birch substrate and aluminum top cover) are 60 wide. So that will be an 1/8 inch on either side not covered. The aluminum trim molding will be 1 inch across and so will cover the gap, and I am using Rv putty under it, but is there anything else I should do to protect the exposed 1/8 inch of ply edge? I have already used the oil based primer and paint over it. I will also ensure it is covered with proline construction adhesive when I install the 3mm Baltic birch sub roof.
I could tape it over using heavy duty duct tape as well. What do you think?
Thanks in advance,
Mariann

First, do not use Duct tape. It doesn't do well in weather/wet conditions for the long term. I've seen it come apart.

I wasn't going to say anything because it is already done; but, the oil based primer could be "iffy", especially on the ends of the plywood. It's harder to get a good glue adherence because you are not gluing wood to wood but rather wood to paint and are depending on the paint to continue to hold to the wood. (Will you be able to cover the entire roof and that extra 1/4 inch across with your Baltic birch sub roof or will the gap still exist? Did you seal the ends of your plywood with something besides the paint, such as epoxy or Titebond II/III before the paint?) If there will still be a 1/8" gap between the sub roof and the edge of the side plywood on each side, a little extra RV putty in that 1/8 inch of "exposed" ply edge, under the trim molding could help even things out as well as help seal it. That is the only recourse that I can think of, right off hand, which might solve the problem. Please be aware that excess RV putty will squeeze out and you can just scrape off the unneeded excess. A little of that stuff always squeezes out even when you aren't putting extra on; so, play with a couple small spare scraps of wood and putty to see if maybe you'll find that it will even itself out, with the excess going into that 1/8" void and maybe you won't need any extra putty at all. (I don't know if I've written that very well....Does that make sense to you?)

Side note: I've heard that RV Putty lasts about 10 years before it needs to be replaced; but, it wouldn't hurt to do a quick check each spring or fall to see that it is all still good.

One more note: Perhaps, if it's not to late, you might be able to eliminate that 1/4" difference by using a couple pipe clamps to squeeze the sides together? If you are going to try that, put a board between the pipe clamps and the outer walls so that you are less likely to damage your walls. Only you will know if this option is possible as you know exactly what you've done to date. (I'm thinking that it's already too late for this option; but thought I'd throw it out there....)

I have no experience with Proline construction adhesive; so, maybe someone else could chime in, please?

[mariannf]

Thanks Sharon!
I have a question for you or anyone who may see: the spars must have been a bit too long and the roof width is 60.25 inches instead of 60 as was intended. My roof materials (3mm birch substrate and aluminum top cover) are 60 wide. So that will be an 1/8 inch on either side not covered. The aluminum trim molding will be 1 inch across and so will cover the gap, and I am using Rv putty under it, but is there anything else I should do to protect the exposed 1/8 inch of ply edge? I have already used the oil based primer and paint over it. I will also ensure it is covered with proline construction adhesive when I install the 3mm Baltic birch sub roof.
I could tape it over using heavy duty duct tape as well. What do you think?
Thanks in advance,
Mariann

First, do not use Duct tape. It doesn't do well in weather/wet conditions for the long term. I've seen it come apart.

I wasn't going to say anything because it is already done; but, the oil based primer could be "iffy", especially on the ends of the plywood. It's harder to get a good glue adherence because you are not gluing wood to wood but rather wood to paint and are depending on the paint to continue to hold to the wood. (Will you be able to cover the entire roof and that extra 1/4 inch across with your Baltic birch sub roof or will the gap still exist? Did you seal the ends of your plywood with something besides the paint, such as epoxy or Titebond II/III before the paint?) If there will still be a 1/8" gap between the sub roof and the edge of the side plywood on each side, a little extra RV putty in that 1/8 inch of "exposed" ply edge, under the trim molding could help even things out as well as help seal it. That is the only recourse that I can think of, right off hand, which might solve the problem. Please be aware that excess RV putty will squeeze out and you can just scrape off the unneeded excess. A little of that stuff always squeezes out even when you aren't putting extra on; so, play with a couple small spare scraps of wood and putty to see if maybe you'll find that it will even itself out, with the excess going into that 1/8" void and maybe you won't need any extra putty at all. (I don't know if I've written that very well....Does that make sense to you?)

Side note: I've heard that RV Putty lasts about 10 years before it needs to be replaced; but, it wouldn't hurt to do a quick check each spring or fall to see that it is all still good.

One more note: Perhaps, if it's not to late, you might be able to eliminate that 1/4" difference by using a couple pipe clamps to squeeze the sides together? If you are going to try that, put a board between the pipe clamps and the outer walls so that you are less likely to damage your walls. Only you will know if this option is possible as you know exactly what you've done to date. (I'm thinking that it's already too late for this option; but thought I'd throw it out there....)

I have no experience with Proline construction adhesive; so, maybe someone else could chime in, please?

Thanks Sharon and got it, not duct tape. I can just sand down the top edge to remove the paint....it will only take a few minutes. Then i will seal it with epoxy. that should do it. It is less than a 1/4 inch total so it will be less than 1/8 inch on either side. I will measure out all of my baltic birch boards, i think there are a couple that are a bit larger than 60x60 so I think this will be fine.
many thanks!

[mariannf]

Hi all,
I posted this question to the general construction board but report it here;
what sealnt should I sue to seal the overlap in the aluminum that will be at my roof seam? the total length of the build required that I use two sheets of aluminum so their will be a seam across the width (from side to side).
I have seen folks on this site use OSI gutter sealant, 3m 4200 and 5200, silicone, sikaflex, poly caulk.
what do you think of this one (it actually mentions "travel trailer construction" in its description of applications) https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... COYQrRIIRQ

what do you recommend?
Mariann

[mariannf]

Over the weekend I finished the roof insulation, outer skin attachment, and sealed it with thompson's clear water seal.
I used 1.5 inch hard foam insulation cut to fit between the spars. I used a jigsaw to cut the insulation just for speed. Any gaps from uneven cuts were filled with spray foam insulation.
Attaching the outer skin (which is the substrate for the aluminum roof) was quite difficult. I use 3mm baltic birch, and had 3 panels that are 60x60. it was very hard to get the pieces that went over the curve at the front and rear to lay completely flat. I used PL adhesive over all wood surfaces (spars and the first few inches of the front and rear bulkhead walls) then first laid the top center piece of birch. it laid down flat and no problems. then I attached the rear and front pieces. in order to get the birch to lay flat and align as best as i could i had to screw the birch in (at about an inch in from the edge so I screwed into the framing material rather than the plywood walls). I went down the sides alternating from side to side to get things aligned as i could. This took a few hours.
I then covered each screw hole and the seem between the birch sheets with caulking. Then i sanded all and sealed with thompon's water seal. I used the router to cut out the front bulkhead window and the ceiling vent fan holes in the birch.

[mariannf]

done! Over the past two weeks I was able to finish the camper. The first work was to apply the aluminum roof. I used .040 sheets one that was 60x120 for top and two 60x60 for the front and rear. I had these pieces sized so I would not have a seam in the center where the vent fan is placed. As some others suggested I used Henrys urethane based flexible adhesive along the perimeter and to join the aluminum at the seams. I toon a lot of time to plan so that I was placing the seams over a spar so that the molding over the seam could be screwed into the spar. This took a lot of measuring and remeasuring but it worked! I also have bottom edge and side trim molding. All molding was bought from vintage technologies. Putting on the aluminum and getting it to lag flat over the curves was difficult ad a two person job. I used two long ratcheting tie downs (27 foot each) to go from front to rear to help hold the aluminum down over the curve. I kept just enough slack to get the molding under it at the seams. all molding has rv putty under it. Then I put a bead of silicone caulk along the length of both sides of the molding. I worked my way from bottom front to the rear screwing in the molding. The screws also have a drop of silicone caulk to waterproof around them. Without question the hardest part of this build for me was the skinning. Getting it right just took a lot of time and small corrections, it was also a challenge to work with the large sheets of material.
Anyway it got done. After the aluminum and molding was on I cut out the whole for the vent fan on the roof and the front window. I first drilled holes large enough for the 1/4 flush trim router bit to go through. I drilled from inside to out. The router didn't work. Either It heated too much or the aluminum wore down the blade to quickly. A jigsaw with a blade for metal cutting did the job very well. This phase was pretty easy. The fan and window fit perfectly. Each has rv putty and silicone caulk as with the molding and is screwed in.
Then I put in the doors. All doors and windows are from vintage technologies. The door went in with no problem.
Following are some pics. My next step is to go to the dmv and then take it out! I will post pics of our first adventure with it.
Many thanks to everyone who helped and especially Sharon and KC...this camper belongs to you a little bit too!

[mariannf]

Some exterior pics.

[mariannf]

Interior pics.

[mariannf]

12v DC electrical. Fuse block with pos and neg bars, housing on shelf with dual USB port and rocker on/off switch, and seperate cig lighter style socket. Installed a 1x6 board in the tongue for the battery which has its own box drilled into the board. I installed the board so that it is placed inside the c-Chanel's of the tongue and held with 6 heavy duty zip ties . I'll post more detailed pics.

[S. Heisley]

Congratulations on completing your build, Mariann! You still have about 3-1/2 good weather months to camp this year, with September/October probably being the best camping weather.

Best Wishes and I look forward to seeing your maiden voyage pictures!

[KCStudly]

We knew you could do it!

I would keep an eye on those zip ties. The white ones generally aren't UV resistant (the black ones are) so they can degrade or be cut by the drilled holes over time; I'd rather see bolts securing the battery tray.

[mariannf]

Thanks Sharon and KC as always!
KC, yes thanks for the advice. I bought a couple of U-bolts with squared shoulders and will install that to secure the wood plank into the tongue.
I'll add pics when done.
m

[mariannf]

I put in the air conditioner for our first night sleeping in the camper. See my previous posts about the window and ac I bought. I installed molding around the window frame cut out and to add support for the ac. I cut 1x4 down to about 1and 7/8ths for the bottom lip of the window frame. The width of the window allowed for the ac unit and just enough space for an extension cord to run through. It would look better if I did the super simple electrical or even cut out mouse hole extension cord port, but this is as easy as it gets. I sealed off the sides of the ac unit with foam. Also I put in the folding foam sofa bed. It is queen size and fits at 58wide with just a little compression here is the one I bought http://milliardbedding.com/product/mill ... en-78x58x4½-removable-cover/

[mariannf]

Ac installed

[Dusty Mark]

I think you'll be pleased with your sofa. Nice build!