7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[msnglinc]

Thanks Martin! I am getting some stuff done. Slow but sure!


I got the shower walls up to the point I just have trim work, some caulking, glue cleanup, and to hang the adjustable shower pole that you can see setting on the corner. After I wrap the bathroom up this week and get the electrical mostly hooked up, I will start on the kitchen. We'll see how far I get this week. Not a lot of time i nthe evenings. Just an hour here and there.

How did you seal the corners of the FRP? Looks like the corner trim made for this but not sure. If so, how confident are you that it won't leak?

[flboy]

How did you seal the corners of the FRP? Looks like the corner trim made for this but not sure. If so, how confident are you that it won't leak?

I did use corner trim on the 90 degree corner which I put a good bead of high quality white silicone sealer on first. On the angle that is not 90 deg. , I put painter's tape either side of the joint and then put a heavy bead of the same silicone. Once applied, I pulled the tape off for a nice clean line. I am highly confident this will not leak. They joint was very tight to start with and the silicone will finish the seal and is flexible to handle the vibrations and will not shrink up with age. It is good stuff will last for many years.

[flboy]

I installed the adjustable shower bar tonight and did some electrical work. I have ordered an aluminum corner shelf that will go into the shower. It will have a soap dish, washcloth hooks and a shelf for shampoo. It will look nice in the corner.



The switches by the door. These control the porch light, rear floods (also have a relay and isolation diode that will light them up when the truck in in reverse), the Maxxair Fan, and main ceiling lighting. I'll remove the bezel when I paint, but I needed them in for the wiring I am doing at this time.

[flboy]

I have a problem to solve. The 1/2" fitting for the shower faucet connection will stick out past the paneling. The walls are 1.5" thick and these extend out about 1.75" . I can't make the wall thicker by standing off the paneling as it will go into the stove which cannot move any further. I have some ideas how I can disguise an access panel by building a small spice rack. I also am exploring getting some different (thinner) hardware for the faucet and trimming the pipe down some. I don't want to mess it up though. I'll have to sleep on it.

[warnmar10]

I have a problem to solve. ...

What is the white threaded material? Could you trim it back and would a PVC/CPVC street elbow fit inside it?
Failing that, what is the I.D. of the white piece? Maybe tap it NPT and use a brass street elbow?
Or how about cut a piece of Corian or similar material and make a spacer to go inside the shower stall? I believe Corian is 1/2" thick so one layer should do the trick.

[flboy]

I have a problem to solve. ...

What is the white threaded material? Could you trim it back and would a PVC/CPVC street elbow fit inside it?
Failing that, what is the I.D. of the white piece? Maybe tap it NPT and use a brass street elbow?
Or how about cut a piece of Corian or similar material and make a spacer to go inside the shower stall? I believe Corian is 1/2" thick so one layer should do the trick.

Some really good ideas! Thanks. The spacer is a great idea if I can find the material.

[warnmar10]

Some really good ideas! Thanks. The spacer is a great idea if I can find the material.

You can buy remnants on eBay or you can buy kitchen cutting boards made of the stuff, also on eBay.

[m.colley]

Some really good ideas! Thanks. The spacer is a great idea if I can find the material.

Don,
Go to your local Wally World and buy a telfon/hdpe cutting board. Most are somewhere around 3/8 to 1/2" thick, use your faucet as a template, make your spacer slightly larger, use a palm sander to smooth out the outside edge of the spacer. It works great. Don't ask how I know, its a trade secret

Martin

[flboy]

Some really good ideas! Thanks. The spacer is a great idea if I can find the material.

Don,
Go to your local Wally World and buy a telfon/hdpe cutting board. Most are somewhere around 3/8 to 1/2" thick, use your faucet as a template, make your spacer slightly larger, use a palm sander to smooth out the outside edge of the spacer. It works great. Don't ask how I know, its a trade secret

Martin

That's what I'll do. Thanks guys!


Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

[flboy]

I've been thinking about this way too much, but at the end of the day, all the spacer does is reduce the length of the white pipe on the other side of the wall. I may just mark the pipe length I need and get my belt sander out and grind it down to length. Any issues with doing that do you think? The main thing is to have enough pipe protruding to seat well in the connector so it does not leak... that appears to be the real constraint.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Absolutely no way to re-position the stove???? Can't build any kind of extended counter
for it to slide over a 1/2 a foot??? Then you could build out so the fittings would fit.
Have you searched for other fittings that could fit in the shallow space?
Just throwing some suggestions out ...

hank

[Hader]

Do you think something like this would work take less room? http://www.pchemlabs.com/product.asp?pid=3519

[m.colley]

I've been thinking about this way too much, but at the end of the day, all the spacer does is reduce the length of the white pipe on the other side of the wall. I may just mark the pipe length I need and get my belt sander out and grind it down to length. Any issues with doing that do you think? The main thing is to have enough pipe protruding to seat well in the connector so it does not leak... that appears to be the real constraint.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Hey Don,
the only I see is like most any pipe to pipe fitting the threads have a taper to them to help create a seal. Also the starting thread at the very end of the pipe could be a issue. If you look at the beginning thread you'll see what I'm talking about. Its like having to shorten a bolt and having to put your nut on first to help re-create the thread when backing the nut off.

Martin

[McDave]

I've been thinking about this way too much, but at the end of the day, all the spacer does is reduce the length of the white pipe on the other side of the wall. I may just mark the pipe length I need and get my belt sander out and grind it down to length. Any issues with doing that do you think? The main thing is to have enough pipe protruding to seat well in the connector so it does not leak... that appears to be the real constraint.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Hey Don,
the only I see is like most any pipe to pipe fitting the threads have a taper to them to help create a seal. Also the starting thread at the very end of the pipe could be a issue. If you look at the beginning thread you'll see what I'm talking about. Its like having to shorten a bolt and having to put your nut on first to help re-create the thread when backing the nut off.

Martin

Bingo!
What Martin said. See if you can get a nut far enough on there, I'd probably just use a hacksaw. Might be more control? Don't rush it, put the saw in a groove and let it do the work. At some point you'll have to cut across a thread so try to get a shallow angle on it similar to orig start thread. Also maybe a tubing cutter like used for pvc/abs? The kind that looks like pruning shears w/ blade? I dunno..maybe
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-PVC-P ... lsrc=aw.ds

McDave

[Iconfabul8]

Shim the front side like has been mentioned, then leave off the black nut and instead, use the elbow connectors and washers so it tightens up in the wall at the same time the elbow connectors tighten on the pipe. Might work?