Blue Ridge Spirit, Bob and Lynn's 6x14 CT

[lrrowe]

Thanks McDave,
I have one issue to solve with them. The rail that attaches to the CT wall is bowed a little following the waviness of the trailer. As a result, it is difficult to snap the mating piece into place. I have to ise a rubber mallet. Next time I am in Lowes, I will look for a strip of aluminum bar that is thick, say 1/4" thick and 1" wide. And I will secure the trailer mating piece to it and then the whole assembly to the trailer with the expectation that it will bridge the wavy sections and give me a straight piece to snap the table onto. I have finished the second table which gives me 6' of very usable outside counter space.

I am ready to order my Carefree of Colorado Pioneer Lite awning off of eBay for less then MSRP. Shipping charges are high though, but still the best price I can find. And I am waiting for the right color to become available. I am a little hesitant to order the black striped one that is available right now.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

https://youtu.be/Ro4HYLXoWqM

[lrrowe]

Very nice. Is this the model for your next build?

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Looks like he copied 1/2 of mine , he only has 1" foam and flashlight batteries to run his ac, but they are starting to copy me. Guess he did not read my directions completely, his ac won't vent properly with that set up.
But it's still a nice build.

I just got my 5 brand new LG 320 panels - only 60 cells, giving me 1620 watts on the roof, each is 37lb vs 50lb before and 1180 watts on the sides. Combined 2800 watts....

I just got a brand new 2016 grid tie 3800 watt Fronius inverter so cheap that if I tell you I'll have kill myself, before I kill you LOL

Cheers ottct

[m.colley]

Hey Bob,
How's your AC working now that you moved it? Just curious. I've got the hole for mine cut, should have the support plate done within a few days. I'm trying to hurry and get mine done. Archery season starts in about 3 weeks.


Martin

[lrrowe]

Martin, it is working great for a very low end unit. It is much quieter this way and takes the inside temp down to at least 20 degress lower then the outside on 90 degree days. So far the only con I am trying to resolve is having to make a cover for the back door which has to remain open about 6". I have ideas which I have not tried yet.

I have added two fans to pull outside air in and across the AC unit.

One word of caution. Do not run the unit with the door closed. I forgot to open it one time and it got quite hot in the housing.

[hankaye]

lrrowe, Howdy;

Bob, Have you considered installing 1 or 2 of these RV refer side wall vents to help your AC
breath or perhaps one for in and a roof vent like Don (flboy), did for his??? Would allow you to
maintain your security, and all you'd need to do is run a drain tube out the bottom.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-3109492- ... B004MEB6KS

hank

[lrrowe]

Hank,
Yes I have considered them from the beginning. But that required cutting more holes then I wanted to at the time (and now too). That is probably the main reason I tried the AC hacking approach. My idea with my long duct did not work in my case and then when my wife developed lung bronchitis, I trashed the hack idea. I am going to wrestle with the security issue for the time being and then as another (not last) straw, I can consider the slide out idea or one like MtnDon's.

Of course, if I forgot about the value of money, I can look at a high seer inside/outside unit like OTTCT and at least one other poster has done. I like the concept and have the right layout to retrofit one to my current interior, but am just not ready for that expense considering I only spent $25 for it used. Today, an 89 degree day, I moved my trailer which has been sitting in the sun for days and therefore hot and stuffy and got the inside trailer temp down to 70 in the afternoon.

[Hader]

Bob,

Have you considered going through the floor?

My plan is to try the floor for my AC setup.

[Id10t]

Hank,
Yes I have considered them from the beginning. But that required cutting more holes then I wanted to at the time (and now too). That is probably the main reason I tried the AC hacking approach. My idea with my long duct did not work in my case and then when my wife developed lung bronchitis, I trashed the hack idea. I am going to wrestle with the security issue for the time being and then as another (not last) straw, I can consider the slide out idea or one like MtnDon's.

Of course, if I forgot about the value of money, I can look at a high seer inside/outside unit like OTTCT and at least one other poster has done. I like the concept and have the right layout to retrofit one to my current interior, but am just not ready for that expense considering I only spent $25 for it used. Today, an 89 degree day, I moved my trailer which has been sitting in the sun for days and therefore hot and stuffy and got the inside trailer temp down to 70 in the afternoon.

Have you thought about reversing your box hack. If I remember correctly the hot air goes out the back the unit and the cooler fresh air comes in from the top and side vents. If you had your box on the back side extending to the door opening and vented it on the top the hot air would escape naturally. The gaps in the door should provide enough air for the intake if its separated from the hot air escaping. You use some coreplast with slots cut in it to hide the gap between the open and closed door. If security is a big concern you could build an expanded metal door that would swing out from the open door and lock benind the closed door and still leave plenty of venting.

[Spotman]

My single hose floor unit is through the floor, on a black 7x12 v nose. Tested several hours at 90° outside and stayed 70° inside. They work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Spotman]

My single hose floor unit is through the floor, on a black 7x14 v nose. Tested several hours at 90° outside and stayed 70° inside. They work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Spotman]

Sorry for double post. Thought I was correcting my size from 7x12 to 7x14.[ASTONISHED FACE]

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[lrrowe]

Bob,

Have you considered going through the floor?

My plan is to try the floor for my AC setup.

Going through the floor is not a possibility for me. If you go to my early posts, you will see why. I have radiant tubes in my subfloor.

But I see others have done it including Spotman as posted above.

[lrrowe]

Hank,
Yes I have considered them from the beginning. But that required cutting more holes then I wanted to at the time (and now too). That is probably the main reason I tried the AC hacking approach. My idea with my long duct did not work in my case and then when my wife developed lung bronchitis, I trashed the hack idea. I am going to wrestle with the security issue for the time being and then as another (not last) straw, I can consider the slide out idea or one like MtnDon's.

Of course, if I forgot about the value of money, I can look at a high seer inside/outside unit like OTTCT and at least one other poster has done. I like the concept and have the right layout to retrofit one to my current interior, but am just not ready for that expense considering I only spent $25 for it used. Today, an 89 degree day, I moved my trailer which has been sitting in the sun for days and therefore hot and stuffy and got the inside trailer temp down to 70 in the afternoon.

Have you thought about reversing your box hack. If I remember correctly the hot air goes out the back the unit and the cooler fresh air comes in from the top and side vents. If you had your box on the back side extending to the door opening and vented it on the top the hot air would escape naturally. The gaps in the door should provide enough air for the intake if its separated from the hot air escaping. You use some coreplast with slots cut in it to hide the gap between the open and closed door. If security is a big concern you could build an expanded metal door that would swing out from the open door and lock benind the closed door and still leave plenty of venting.

I am not sure I need to to take that approach at this time. My set up works. It cools the trailer and for now is not creating a condensation problem. For now I am going to made a simple awning over the door for rain protection. The right door will be locked with the installed, typical CT latches and a lock. The left side will have some sort of extended lock bar that is connected to the locked right side and only unlockable after the riight side is opened. I will also add a second simple door over the lower shelves below the AC section. And this approach does not require any new holes in the siding or door. Hope this makes sense.