dogpound101 wrote:dogpound101 wrote:dmdc411 wrote:I used .040 refrigeration aluminum. Think it's 5052, 4 x 8, and 4 x 10 on my 5'3"wX 10 TD. Have left overs that's all. Paid $46 for 8 ftrs, $65 for the
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How did you seam your roof?
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Not to hijack the thread, but just in case the original poster finds it useful:
I just tried something new (no pictures yet). I purchased some 1/8-inch aluminum pop rivets (0.063-0.125 grip range), overlapped my aluminum sheets 1.25 inches, drilled 1/8-inch holes 1.5 inches apart in the overlapping section, and pop-riveted the whole thing. It was much faster than seaming a roof with flat insert trim (which is also a pain if your joint lands on a curve).
Some notes:
The joint is strong, but not waterproof in itself. So I laid a bead of silicone II in the lap joint and tapped the underside with roofing repair tape. It looks really good! Really clean. And it costs less than aluminum trim.
You can buy a pop riveter for $20. But if you buy a cheap one, you should use aluminum rivets and not stainless steel. You'll break the riveter.
I think both ways look good and will hold up long-term.