water proofing your wood

[DrewsBrews]

I think I got the 'mix' down, and using multiple coats and even extra on the ends. Using oil based poly instead of water based. My question: with multiple coats, does one allow the coats to dry in between coats? I wouldn't imagine having to sand in between coats either. Oh, btw, you'll see more of my questions as we go. Another newbie here and I"ve decided to do the foamie route with my first teardrop build. I'll introduce myself later in the appropriate folder. Hi from Virginia and Semper Fi folks!

Sanding affects the surface only... Since the mix soaks in deeper I don't see the need until you are finished with the mix and ready to coat it with something else.

[Chello]

Does anyone have experience treating the underside of the trailer with the mix and then canvasing the sides and around the bottom? How does the TB2 adhere to the underside with the mix? I"d like to avoid the black stuff, but also don't want to compromise my foamies strength.

[GPW]

Good question ???

[lthomas987]

I did it. Treated 5/8" OSB. Rough side down, sanded some near the edges for better glue grip. So far it seems stuck pretty well, but we're talking about a not finished camper that's still living in the garage. So I have no idea how it will hold up in the long run. I considered but didn't treating another strip of wood or aluminum (now even more appealing considering the drip edge talk going round) and screwing it up into the floor for extra clamping.

[rustytoolss]

well, ok, I'm sold! I've been mixing 50/50 poly/mineral spirits and hitting anything but metal with it. (Mostly just wood anything. old(er) yard tools, hand tools with wood, Bar-BQ tools with wood handles, plywood, chip, particle and fiber board "wood" even the stuff already damaged by a bit of water. Love that stuff. I now bought a gallon of the mineral spirits and next is a gallon of the poly (oil based). The water damaged stuff hardens up just like that new plastic wood stuff, which is plastic and sawdust, mostly. I bet that's how they discovered it. Stuff I could dig and tear apart with my finger from water damage becomes hard as a thick piece of plastic. YOU are a genius!

FYI: I use water based poly on metal, even rusty metal (after cleaning). Why water based? This is great. Any liquid has a solvent and the medium to it. When the solvent dries the medium hardens. The outside hardens first and the formula for the medium lets the lower layers pass out the solvent after the outer layer gets hard. So oil base poly passes the oil solvent out to the outer layers to dry and harden, BUT would trap any existing moisture like water in the lower layers. Anything beginning to rust is stuck with the water trapped inside. But with water based, the water existing in the rust could get passed out and would dry and be extracted. Water based would always be drying throughout its lifetime. And when the poly dries, just as with the particle wood, it would be as hard as plastic. (not as hard as metal, but at least harder that flaking rust, and it would seal out any additional water.) So steel in tools (garden, camping, work) get cleaned then water based poly. I think I'll do my under frame that way too. Definitely steel wheel wells, the rims. Then a coat of oil based poly (oil over water for paint) then an enamel...
(sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread, but we WERE talking about repair/prevention of water damage AND poly's... :-)

[rustytoolss]

Oil based Polyurethane varnish , 25% , Mineral Spirits , 75% ... paint on till it won’t take any more (multiple coats ) ... let dry well, then prime and paint as normal ...

[rustytoolss]

:)

Oil based Polyurethane varnish , 25% , Mineral Spirits , 75% ... paint on till it won’t take any more (multiple coats ) ... let dry well, then prime and paint as normal ...

I've got a question, If I were to use "the mix, Chuck's mix" on my plywood floor material. And pay special attention to the edges. Making sure to get several coats to soak into the edges. Would I have problems gluing two pieces of my 4x6 plywood flooring together ? To have a well glued solid plywood floor ?

[tony.latham]

To have a well glued solid plywood floor ?

I assume you are joining your plywood using a scarf, spline, or some other tried and true method?

Wood adhesives are best used on bare wood. Join your plywood first and then slather The Mix on.

Tony

[GPW]

What Tony said , once glued up , THEN you use the Mix !!!

[rustytoolss]

Got a question about the paint thinner to use in the "MIX". I bought some cheap thinner a walmart called Klean Strip "GREEN" Safer paint thinner. I opened it today. It's a milky white color , and does not smell much like paint thinner. I bought it because it was the cheapest that they had. Has anyone use this for their waterproofing mix ? Is it OK to use ?

[rustytoolss]

To have a well glued solid plywood floor ?

I assume you are joining your plywood using a scarf, spline, or some other tried and true method?

Wood adhesives are best used on bare wood. Join your plywood first and then slather The Mix on.

Tony

Please explain scarf, spline

[tony.latham]

To have a well glued solid plywood floor ?

I assume you are joining your plywood using a scarf, spline, or some other tried and true method?

Wood adhesives are best used on bare wood. Join your plywood first and then slather The Mix on.

Tony

Please explain scarf, spline

Spline:


Scarf:


I use a router with a 1/8" bit for a spline joint and some 1/8" plywood. It's a weak joint but works depending on what the application is. A sharp block plane does a great job of cutting scarf joints using the laminations as contour lines. You have to think about the glue-up with both joints.

Tony

[KCStudly]

Got a question about the paint thinner to use in the "MIX". I bought some cheap thinner a walmart called Klean Strip "GREEN" Safer paint thinner. I opened it today. It's a milky white color , and does not smell much like paint thinner. I bought it because it was the cheapest that they had. Has anyone use this for their waterproofing mix ? Is it OK to use ?

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/green-safer-paint-thinner
http://www.kleanstrip.com/uploads/documents/GKGP75011_SDS-1691.7E.pdf
http://www.shell.com/business-customers/global-solutions/refinery-technology-licensing/hydrotreating.html

Looks to me like mineral spirits that have been "hydrotreated" (a hydrogen catalyst refining process that gets out more of the "dirty" stuff). The thing that gets me is that they only claim 15-40/ct "light distillate (petroleum)" (edit: naptha, gasoline, etc.). The exact amount is "trade secret". So what is the other 60-85/ct?

Compare that to their regular mineral spirits which is 100/ct.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/uploads/documents/GKSP94006_SDS-GL251.pdf

[GPW]

Gosh !!! That’s a good question ... We got some of that and didn’t even want to use it for my Oil Painting .... It was more Soapy’ to me ... Maybe keep that for soaking paintbrushes in ??? I’d stick with the Old Mineral Spirits ... It’s probably cheaper and we know it Works !!! The milky stuff needs some "testing” before we try it again ...

[rustytoolss]

OK I bought a 1 gallon jug of paint thinner from walmart called Klean Strip (to replace the eco friendly green stuff, that I bought by mistake). The label says cleans and thins oil based paints. What kind of cheap Polyurethane varnish should I buy ? who sells it the cheapest ? How much should I buy (my Plywood floor id 116"x76")
Also are you guy painting the top and bottom of the floor with "The Mix"? and of course the edges get special attention.