#1

[S. Heisley]

The next foamie? You're going to build another? (This one is looking very good, by the way.)

[OP827]

...
I agree. Next foamie will have canvas applied before installation. The only problem I can see is if you have a curve. No way to make kerfs unless you go with the two sheets with kerfs sandwiched in between. Still might be a problem on bigger builds though.

I was just thinking if you apply canvas while your internal roof piece is cut to size but still flat, then cut your kerfs as you did in your build on the other foam side before you glue two pieces together in a curve, then this should work fine, right?

[ghcoe]

...
I agree. Next foamie will have canvas applied before installation. The only problem I can see is if you have a curve. No way to make kerfs unless you go with the two sheets with kerfs sandwiched in between. Still might be a problem on bigger builds though.

I was just thinking if you apply canvas while your internal roof piece is cut to size but still flat, then cut your kerfs as you did in your build on the other foam side before you glue two pieces together in a curve, then this should work fine, right?

I think so .

[GPW]

WP...

[ghcoe]

The next foamie? You're going to build another? (This one is looking very good, by the way.)

Yes and thanks.
A build idea on the next build. http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=65033

[ghcoe]

Finished the ceiling and got most of the wall canvas on this weekend.

I think I have found the perfect way to install interior canvas.

Anyway if you remember last week I glued the ceiling canvas on using my support method, but I did not glue all the way to the edges. I figured with the canvas shrinking while it was drying that it would pull the canvas away from the corners. It was also difficult to work in the tight area so I just left about a 2" glue free zone next to the walls. This week it was time to finish this zone. First I pulled all the push pins. Then I sprayed the canvas along this area with water to get it to relax. This allowed me to easily pull back the canvas. I pulled the canvas back enough so that there was no unstuck canvas even if I had to pull some stuck canvas back to get there. I did not want any issues with unstuck canvas bubbling later. Once I got it pulled back I applied full strength TBII just to the ceiling and not to the wall. If some glue got on the wall that was OK.

Gluing

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Once I got the TBII all along the ceiling I pushed the canvas back up. I then dampened with water again and took a putty knife and "pushed" the new glued area towards the wall. The idea was to push just hard enough to push the canvas into the glue and the excess glue towards the wall. With the canvas dampened it makes a nice corner.

Cornering

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Not done at this time, but at a later time,I found that I needed to apply a sizing to this cornered edge. This also helped with the edges sticking easier too.

Drying

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[ghcoe]

While the edges where drying I went ahead and started to cut out the vent and ceiling light boxes.

Lines drawn

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Cut

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I used full strength TBII to glue the tabs down around the vent area.

Cut outs

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[ghcoe]

Once the edges where dry it was time for the next steps. I at first wanted a corner overlap similar to the outside. The more I though about this the more I realized what a pain it was going to be. So I then decided just to cut at the corner.

I took a sharpie and marked a line along the corner and then took a box cutter and made the cut. I found that the box cutter worked great for this application. Mainly because it keeps a nice cut depth and allows some leverage on the canvas as you cut. I cut at a 45* angle to the edges.

Box cutter

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Cutting the edges

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Then it was just pulling the cut canvas off. This canvas came off pretty easily.

Clean corner

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With the walls I used these methods, but it was way more refined. (root beer). Knowing what I know now I think I can do a quicker and better job on the ceiling. I will do a more refined step by step posting on how I did the walls once I get some extra time.

[Tempest]

Very nice build! Questions: @ around 500lbs, how much of that would be only the trailer without the camper body? With applying the canvas, does the shrinkage have the strength to bow a large flat piece of the 2" foam if applied BEFORE that particular piece is assembled into the camper body?

[ghcoe]

Very nice build! Questions: @ around 500lbs, how much of that would be only the trailer without the camper body?

The HF trailer has a product weight of 253LBS.

With applying the canvas, does the shrinkage have the strength to bow a large flat piece of the 2" foam if applied BEFORE that particular piece is assembled into the camper body?

That I am not sure. It could I would suspect. I think if there was a question to that you could preshrink the canvas before gluing it the foam. Although I like the shrinking process of the canvas to pull out the wrinkles and make a drum tight skin.

[ghcoe]

Now that I got a bit of time I will explain the interior canvasing method.

First the tools I used.

Square
Small scissors
Sharpie
exacto blade
Box cutter
Putty knifes

Tools #1

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Bucket with water(for storing brushes when not in use).
Styrofoam cup for holding glue. Other cups could be used.
Spray bottle with water.
Small paint roller.
2" and 1" wide brushes.

Tools #2

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One item that did not get into these pictures, but will be in the following pictures, are push pins.

I use the bucket with water in it to store brushes in when not in use. I fill the water level to just below the metal portion of the brushes. That way the metal does not rust with time. I have used these brushes for both paint and glue and back and have stored the brushers for weeks this way with no hardening of the bristles. This cuts down on cost of brushes. I purchase my brushes at the dollar store and I find these particular brushes quite good.

The paint roller pad can be used for some time to. Eventually it will get hard with glue, but all we are doing with it is "pushing" the canvas down into the glue and "pushing" extra glue towards the edges. It is not necessary to have a new pad each time you use the roller. I have used the same roller for weeks.

I guess the main I idea I am trying to get across is don't sweat it. (root beer).

[ghcoe]

OK, So now we are going to canvas a wall. This method is a improvement to my earlier ceiling method. I would use this method on my next ceiling installation.

I thin the TBII down a little. Just enough to get the brush to "slide" the glue on. Not sure how to explain that any better. Full strength glue does not like to spread well. If you want to use full strength that would be good too. Thinned glue just works better for me.

I am using Harbor Freight Drop Cloths. They seem to be in the 10-12oz range. I do not preshrink the canvas and use "as is" out of the bag. Other canvas may have different results.

There is no need to cut the canvas to the "right" size with this method. Just remember that the canvas can or will shrink, so allow enough extra canvas for this issue.

1. Starting at the top of the wall apply the glue. Allow a 2"-3" "glue free zone" along all wall, ceiling and floor areas. Try and make the glue line along these areas as straight as possible. This will make it easier for a later step. I work in small sections at a time, in this case I applied glue down to the top of the window and door.

2. Center the canvas on the wall. Allow at least 1" extra canvas at the top, that means at least enough canvas to reach the ceiling plus 1" overlap. This way we know we have enough canvas to cut off later. Take a push pin and "pin" the canvas in place in the "glue free zone". I started in the middle and worked out to each end, making sure that the canvas was held straight and draped nicely down the wall.

Glue and pins

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3. Let the canvas drape down the wall. Now take the spray bottle and dampen the canvas. This will "relax" the canvas so that it will be easier to work with. I think it also helps "pull" the glue into the canvas.

Spray

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4. Now take the roller and roll the canvas down into the glue. This is the time to work on wrinkles too. Most wrinkles with this canvas and method roll right out. If there is a stubborn wrinkle I will hit it with a bit more water and work the roller across it until it fades away. I really do not have much trouble with wrinkles with this method. Usually a couple roller strokes and they disappear.

Roll

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This is the basic method that will be repeated as we move down. Really the only difference is that the canvas needs to be moved out of the way to apply the next section of glue.

[ghcoe]

5. So we got the first section glued. Now we need to get the draped canvas out of the way so we can get the glue on the next section of the wall. Take the bottom of the canvas and pull it up to the ceiling. Use push pins to hold in place.

Rolled once

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6. Now take the new bottom of the canvas and fold again. Use push pins to hold in place. In this case I only needed to fold the canvas twice, other applications may need more folding. Just be careful once you get to the glue line. You do not want to lift all the canvas off the glue. I usually pull the canvas back far enough to expose 1"-2" of the previous glued area. This way I know that I am not leaving a dry area under the canvas.

Rolled twice

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7. Apply glue, this time only allowing a 2" "glue free zone" next to the wall.

8. Unfold the canvas and let it "drape" down the wall again. Now apply water and roll out like described above.

9. Now fold the canvas "up" again. In this case I needed to only fold up once to expose the next section of wall to apply glue to. Remember we also want a 1"-2" "glue free zone" along the floor too.

Last section

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So now you should have a good idea of how this process works. Remember that we do not apply glue all the way to the ceiling, walls and floor. We want to leave a 1"-2" "glue free zone". The reasoning is that the canvas is unpredictable and could shrink. If we cut the canvas to the wall size it would be difficult to get it positioned exactly right once we started to glue. Also, the canvas can shrink as it gets wet and begins to dry which would pull the canvas away from the edges. Leaving this "glue free zone" allows us to use a large enough piece of canvas to overlap the ceiling, walls and floor that we can cut off later to make a nice clean joint.

[ghcoe]

10. Before everything dries we need to hit the outlet boxes. If your outlet boxes are flush or recessed into the wall you can skip this step. This step would also work for other small lifted areas you might have in your build too. first I take the small scissors and cut the canvas to the corner edges of the outlet box. I also cut the canvas across the box and connect all the cuts. This is important for it will help keep the canvas from stretching tight across the box and lift the canvas off the wall around the outlet box. I then use a plastic putty knife to push the canvas down around the outlet box. I start about 1"-2" away from the box and lightly push the canvas down and push excess glue toward the edges of the outlet box.

Outlet details #1

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11. Then I apply sizing, TBII thinned 50/50, to the edges of the box. These edges will be cut later. The sizing helps make a nicer and easier cut once dried.

Sizing

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[ghcoe]

12. Ok, we have waited for the canvas to dry. This large section of canvas has shrunk and is not going to shrink anymore. We are now working with a 2"-3" section of canvas that will not shrink much, at least not enough to matter for what we are doing now. I spray the canvas with water first to relax the fibers and then pull back the canvas to the glue line. It is important that we do not leave a "dry" area so go ahead and pull the stuck canvas back if you have to reach non stuck sections of canvas. If you kept a nice straight glue line this should be easy.

Pulling back canvas

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13. Now I use a 1" wide brush to apply full strength TBII to the wall that we just exposed by pulling the canvas back. Making sure to get glue all the way back to the already stuck canvas to the wall edge. Try not to get any glue on the other wall surface if possible.

Gluing

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14. Spray the canvas again with water if it is getting dry. Now I take the plastic putty knife and push the canvas from the previous glued area to the corner. The wetted canvas should make a nice crisp corner.

Putty knife

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