And so it begins.... 6x12 Pace conversion

[Donut757]

6x12 2005 Pace, picked up this trailer about a month ago, i have been posting a bit trying to get my ideas/plans together. Cant get in the driveway due to low ground clearance and steep driveway, but got the ball rolling today. This trailer will be used primarily for a dry/warm/comfortable place to stay. Itll be used every weekend from Oct-Jan and a few 3-4 night stays during that time. I would like to be able to take the soon to be Ole Lady and dog camping a weekend here or there (if she wants).

Im really excited to get this thing started and have it ready for next year this time (maybe the summer if not a zillion degrees). I have a pretty good idea in terms of layout. I will have an ATV for hunting, and i want to have a back false wall... So im thinking an insulated, hinged rear wall and will store ATV inside during the week while i am not there. This is not my first choice in set ups, but itll be easier than loading and hauling back and fourth every time i will need it. the roof does a few leaks... along the curb side of trailer and the front plastic got crushed and currently been fiberglassed, but needs cleaning up.

my plans are:

-Skid wheels on rear, more drop on ball mount, and swivel tongue jack
-Dicor/Eternabond tape roof seams and get roof right
- insulate
- rear, hinged wall with A/C mounted and small 12"x16" window. will allow for storage in rear when not storing ATV
- front shelving
- 110/12v power, all lights 12v and 3 Receptacles on 110
- folding, hinged queen bed


no plans for plumbing/holding tanks. I will likely set up an outdoor shower tent/pump if ole lady buys into it, same with bathroom duties. If we camp itll be at campground and a simple toilet will do for me for emergencies/late night situations hunting, because we do have a club house.

I will certainly be asking some questions and looking for help (especially ELECTRICAL). itll be a slow process but i am really looking forward to it.

[Donut757]

This is going to be my build buddy, Maggie. She will likely double check everything i do and hear lots of foul language if things go wrong... she is my best buddy, she doesnt judge me.




















There a a few spots like this that are on the roof. Only slow leaks if rain/wind hits it right.... or driving through Hurricane Matthew to get it back home.


I took out the Stabilizer legs, they will be cut down a bit and the Skid wheels are going to be welded onto them so i can remove them and put them on without having to get floor jack out to raise trailer.

[Hader]

You already have Maggie on your side.
The Folks on this forum are amazing. You'll have all kind of help.

Let's get rolling.

[McDave]

Hey Donut,
I gotta tell ya, I think you scored on that trailer. It looks to be in great shape overall, and used trailers are not easy to come by. Definitely a fair price.
I noticed on your roof that some of the seams have little or no lap sealant on them. Probably would be best to just commit to sealing/resealing all of the seams. Probably a half dozen tubes of Dicor self levelling lap sealant would do it. Here's a shot of my roof, they used plenty of sealant and no leaks, so far.

I would also highly recommend getting a gallon of Henry 587 reflective roof paint. It really helps keep the temp. down in the trailer. Even more than the insulation.
Also, I have seen those front plastic pieces for sale (new), so you may want to evaluate the one you have to see if it is worth trying to repair. You wouldn't want to go back and do it twice. Just commit and get the roof issues put to bed.
Just my .02,

McDave

[Donut757]

Yes sir, the price was cheaper than anything i have seen that wasnt in awful shape. You are correct about the roof, i was surprised to see some seams not sealed. I will be sealing every seam and i will be painting roof also. I will look i to front cap, price will determine that outcome.

Dicor comes in self leveling and non self leveling.... will the non self leveling work on vertical applications, or normal caulking be the best idea?

[hankaye]

Donut757, Howdy;

About Dicor products ... ask Rudy
http://dicorproducts.com/resources/rudys/

Good looking CT you found for your build. Lookin' foreword to see what you do with it.

hank

[Donut757]

Donut757, Howdy;

About Dicor products ... ask Rudy
http://dicorproducts.com/resources/rudys/

Good looking CT you found for your build. Lookin' foreword to see what you do with it.

hank

Thank you, i will send a message their way today.

[Tommy B]

Donut757 ,
Hey I just saw you private message! Sorry I just noticed it.
2x4 for framing the bed out. 3/8 plywood for deck. 3/4 would have been too heavy. I weigh about 190. It works great for me. the gel mattress is 5 inches thick. I hope this helps you Donut.
Good luck. I really miss figuring all that stuff out for the first time. Have fun and I will watch my new message indicator more closely.

If you go that way don't skimp on the cross members. Maybe 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart as the 3/8 plywood will flex and make cracking noises if you don't.

[Donut757]

Donut757 ,
Hey I just saw you private message! Sorry I just noticed it.
2x4 for framing the bed out. 3/8 plywood for deck. 3/4 would have been too heavy. I weigh about 190. It works great for me. the gel mattress is 5 inches thick. I hope this helps you Donut.
Good luck. I really miss figuring all that stuff out for the first time. Have fun and I will watch my new message indicator more closely.

If you go that way don't skimp on the cross members. Maybe 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart as the 3/8 plywood will flex and make cracking noises if you don't.

No worries man, just trying to get a game plan. I appreciate the info tho, i will likely have to put a set of hinges in the middle of platform to so i can elevate the bed off the ground a bit more and keep the queen width.

[Donut757]

Picked up a few cabinet doors today. Got them for free as person in the neighborhood. They are 18w X 32t. Should be perfect for cabinet/shelving up infront.




Still waiting on skid wheels to be welded, hoping be done one day here within week. Then onto the roof.

[Rainier70]

I think if you contact the manufacturer you can get a replacement plastic nose cap. Might be worth a try anyway.

[Ol' D]

If you would like a new nose cap, you might find something you can use here.
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/product11232.html
I like what you've got going and am looking forward to seeing what you do.

Dan

[Donut757]

Thank you for that link, it may be an option at those prices if something goes wrong. Its fixable as is... some epoxy and sanding shud take care of it just fine.

They want $230ish plus $30-40 shipping for a factory replacement.... ill pass on that unless it completely breaks i to pieces.


Really wish guy welding wheels would get it done, but im in no rush, just be nice to have it done while weather is still nice.

[McDave]

Stuff like those door can really help stretch your budget. They are perfectly useable and really quite nice. Now that effort and money can be spent somewhere else. Win!

McDave

[Donut757]

Stuff like those door can really help stretch your budget. They are perfectly useable and really quite nice. Now that effort and money can be spent somewhere else. Win!

McDave

Without a doubt... im a yard sale guy, love em, cant turn down a good deal. With this build in mind i ended up finding a foldable Coleman on the go style grill for $5 and a brand new camp stove in the box for $15 ( and guy threw in a clamp style work light). Both shouldnt take much room to store and wipl be perfect if needing to cook a meal at hunt club. They wont get used a ton, but they will come in handy.