foamie wall to floor attachment options ?

[Andrew Herrick]

One more thing that may or may not have made the wall to floor joint stronger and less prone to splitting the cedar; I staggered the row of screws. Rather than putting them all in a straight line down the center of my 2x2 sill board, I staggered every other screw in or out about 1/2 inch so as to broaden the footprint of the clamping effect and lengthen any potential interruption between individual wood fibers. IIRC I spaced the screws every 6 to 8 inches or so along the length of the wall; probably a little overkill but it made for a nice solid joint that pulled the PLP down nicely.

Glad to hear somebody else does this I also staggered my screws to keep the wall cleat (sill board) from trying to pivot about its axis when torqued by the wall. I didn't do any math to figure out how effective it was ... but in theory, it's a good idea. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.

[rustytoolss]

...did you experience any splitting with the cedar?

None that I can recall, and none for sure at the floor to wall joints. I did do a dry fit; pilot drilled all of the screws with a countersinking pilot bit up thru from underneath; and then opened the holes thru the floor up for the shanks of the coated deck screws.

For the floor and bulkhead internal frames, door surrounds and door frames I mostly used plate (biscuit) joinery, but wherever I did screw I pilot drilled. Anywhere critical that I felt I might be doing multiple assembly/disassembly cycles during dry fits, specifically with the small #6 screws, after pulling the screw out I put a drop of CA glue in the hole and let that soak in to strengthen the "wooden threads". There weren't too many spots where I felt this was needed, but it is a good trick to know for soft woods.

CA glue. ??

[KCStudly]

Cyanoacrylate, same as crazy glue.