Exterior Options

[dakippen]

I have a design drawn out, tons of ideas but still undecided on the exterior. I've gone from pallet type wood (way too heavy), some type of a vinyl image wrap over wood (way out of the budget), to recently using aluminum (nice, but meh...). But I LOVE the look of wood. Last night, I thought I had finally made a decision - use maybe 1/2" wood and seal the crap out of it. Now I hear this may not be possible. What's a girl to do? Do I go with a marine grade plywood, should I be looking at some other water resistant wood or just go back to aluminum? I've gotten what I'm going to be using for the roof - so that's not part of the equation. And I really have no desire to use canvas or foam.

Thoughts/ideas??

Oh - and still waiting on the trailer.

Debbie

[edgeau]

I am using marine ply and a nice dark stain (Jarrah) with UV stable sealer included.

Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk

[QueticoBill]

Ditto. Woody with spar varnish to pmf with paint. Only seem further away from deciding.

[Esteban]

You have some initial choices to decide.

1) How will the walls be constructed?
a) Solid Plywood
b) Plywood shell with inner framework
c) Foam(y)

2) How will the outside of the walls be protected and weatherproofed?
a) Aluminum sheets
b) PMF (poor man's fiberglass) i.e. fabric, glue and paint
c) Fiberglass (epoxy and fiberglass cloth) that is either painted or varnished
d) Paint
e) Varnish
f) something else

[yrock87]

If properly sealed you don't need exterior grade wood. I am using 3mm birch and other have used a veneer over plywood. Just seal it properly with epoxy, varnish, the mix, urethane, fiberglass, whatever you want. Each sealing method has its plusses and minuses . You can have the woody look you want. Plenty of threads on how to seal wood with good resuktd.

Just make sure that you are willing to spend the time on prep to make that wood really look it's best.

[QueticoBill]

You have some initial choices to decide.

1) How will the walls be constructed?
a) Solid Plywood
b) Plywood shell with inner framework
c) Foam(y)

2) How will the outside of the walls be protected and weatherproofed?
a) Aluminum sheets
b) PMF (poor man's fiberglass) i.e. fabric, glue and paint
c) Fiberglass (epoxy and fiberglass cloth) that is either painted or varnished
d) Paint
e) Varnish
f) something else

Exactly, except I look at the choices of 2 first, appearance, and let that guide the choices of 1, after looking at 3 - budget - of course.

[dakippen]

You have some initial choices to decide.

1) How will the walls be constructed?
a) Solid Plywood - Outside wall - Wood?? Inner - Foam for insulation - Interior - Birch that will be covered with maps - sides only
b) Plywood shell with inner framework - Most likely
c) Foam(y) - NO

2) How will the outside of the walls be protected and weatherproofed?
a) Aluminum sheets - Meh..
b) PMF (poor man's fiberglass) i.e. fabric, glue and paint - NO
c) Fiberglass (epoxy and fiberglass cloth) that is either painted or varnished - NO
d) Paint - Not really
e) Varnish - Stained/sealed with appropriate weather resistant product???
f) something else

So after doing some reading and more looking, here is my thought. 1/8" birch which will be covered with maps as my wallpaper; 1/4" (??) foam or insulating material; exterior I'm thinking of splurging on this and go with mahogany. So I would use a clear varnish then along with other weather resistant material?? I'm looking at making the doors as well and possibly use a lighter color than mahogany - just to give some character.

And thank you for your input!

[yrock87]

May I ask why you are dismissing the epoxy/ glass? Epoxy has a lot of benefits compares to varnish. Cost is really quite comparable because 80% of a gallon of varnish evaporates where epoxy is 100% material, none evaporates. Epoxy also applies much quicker. 3-4 coats of epoxy is equal to 10-12 coats of varnish.

Epoxy sounds intimidating, but the learning curve is really quite easy. My first use was my trailer and I enjoyed using it. I recommend it for

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[yrock87]

You have some initial choices to decide.

1) How will the walls be constructed?
a) Solid Plywood - Outside wall - Wood?? Inner - Foam for insulation - Interior - Birch that will be covered with maps - sides only
b) Plywood shell with inner framework - Most likely
c) Foam(y) - NO

2) How will the outside of the walls be protected and weatherproofed?
a) Aluminum sheets - Meh..
b) PMF (poor man's fiberglass) i.e. fabric, glue and paint - NO
c) Fiberglass (epoxy and fiberglass cloth) that is either painted or varnished - NO
d) Paint - Not really
e) Varnish - Stained/sealed with appropriate weather resistant product???
f) something else

So after doing some reading and more looking, here is my thought. 1/8" birch which will be covered with maps as my wallpaper; 1/4" (??) foam or insulating material; exterior I'm thinking of splurging on this and go with mahogany. So I would use a clear varnish then along with other weather resistant material?? I'm looking at making the doors as well and possibly use a lighter color than mahogany - just to give some character.

And thank you for your input!

Also, you may consider thicker foam. 1/4 inch won't provide much in the way of insulation, won't enhance the strength of the wall system much, and will be just as difficult/ time consuming to make as a thicker wall. 3/4 inch or 1 inch will make a much bigger difference to both wall strength and insulation considering the extra work involved. My 3 cents

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[dakippen]

[quote="yrock87"]May I ask why you are dismissing the epoxy/ glass? Epoxy has a lot of benefits compares to varnish. Cost is really quite comparable because 80% of a gallon of varnish evaporates where epoxy is 100% material, none evaporates. Epoxy also applies much quicker. 3-4 coats of epoxy is equal to 10-12 coats of varnish.

Epoxy sounds intimidating, but the learning curve is really quite easy. My first use was my trailer and I enjoyed using it. I recommend it for

^^^^^^^^^^^This....I think I saw something somewhere that I had to use epoxy AND glass, and I just don't want mess with both. If I can get by with just epoxy, I'd be okay with that...

[dakippen]

You have some initial choices to decide.

1) How will the walls be constructed?
a) Solid Plywood - Outside wall - Wood?? Inner - Foam for insulation - Interior - Birch that will be covered with maps - sides only
b) Plywood shell with inner framework - Most likely
c) Foam(y) - NO

2) How will the outside of the walls be protected and weatherproofed?
a) Aluminum sheets - Meh..
b) PMF (poor man's fiberglass) i.e. fabric, glue and paint - NO
c) Fiberglass (epoxy and fiberglass cloth) that is either painted or varnished - NO
d) Paint - Not really
e) Varnish - Stained/sealed with appropriate weather resistant product???
f) something else

So after doing some reading and more looking, here is my thought. 1/8" birch which will be covered with maps as my wallpaper; 1/4" (??) foam or insulating material; exterior I'm thinking of splurging on this and go with mahogany. So I would use a clear varnish then along with other weather resistant material?? I'm looking at making the doors as well and possibly use a lighter color than mahogany - just to give some character.

And thank you for your input!

Also, you may consider thicker foam. 1/4 inch won't provide much in the way of insulation, won't enhance the strength of the wall system much, and will be just as difficult/ time consuming to make as a thicker wall. 3/4 inch or 1 inch will make a much bigger difference to both wall strength and insulation considering the extra work involved. My 3 cents

I wasn't looking at my notes and couldn't remember what thickness on the foam - but 3/4" does make more sense.

[yrock87]

Epoxy will seal on its own. Fiberglass adds strength. I epoxied alll exterior on my build, bottom ,top & sides but only glasses thr corners. It was easy to add extra strength with a little glass. But you can just epoxy if you want. It just won't add strength, only water proofing. Actually,I also makes it harder. Pick though of 3 mm Birch is pretty easy with a Philips driver bit in a drill gun. (Ask me how I know). The epoxy really made that birch harder and more resistant to dings and rocks and such.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[swoody126]

if WOOD is what you love do it in WOOD

she'll be your baby not someone elses

the look of WOOD is WARM & FRIENDLY

WESTERN RED CEDAR fencing material comes in 4" & 6" widths and is typically 5/8" thick w/ one smooth side & one rough side

WRC is light in physical weight, quite rot resistant, takes stain beautifully, then varnished for a natural wood finished product

many racing sailboats up to and thru the late 1960's were planked w/ WRC and finished natural

there is almost nothing any more beautiful than a yacht finished sailboat that is planked w/ WRC

if you have access to a thickness planer & a table saw or router, you can thin the planks down to 1/2" and cut the edges similar to LAP SIDING

over a 1/4" plywood(BCX-YP @ under $20/sheet) outer skin you can then add the WRC to achieve your desired look, whether in a horizontal or diagonal pattern

a combination of PL-PREMIUM adhesive and some carefully placed metalic fasteners(RINGSHANKED BRONZE BOAT NAILS would look KILLER, IMHO) for applicatiln of the WRC should do the trick

i agree w/ the suggestion to use thicker framing, which can be ripped out of virtually any species of "1 by" materials, to accomodate 3/4" foam insulating layer and ultimately skin the interior w/ 1/8" door skin ply(very common and inexpensive) for a smooth attractive finishable surface that you can "paper" w/ maps to your heart'z content...

the above suggestion to use EPOXY as a coating on the outside is not wrong, the folks who suggested it just forgot to tell you that most EPOXIES DON'T HAVE UV INHIBITORS in them and will eventually dull and go away, therefore EPOXY must be coated w/ a UV inhibiting coating like varnish...

1/4" marine plywood of miranti or okoume would, either one, look great finished w/ stain a/o varnish and would run you between $50 & $100/sheet depending on where you get it, if you pick it up or if you have to have it shipped to you

IF YOU LIKE/WANT WOOD BUILD IT W/ WOOD

sw

[dakippen]

if WOOD is what you love do it in WOOD

she'll be your baby not someone elses

the look of WOOD is WARM & FRIENDLY

WESTERN RED CEDAR fencing material comes in 4" & 6" widths and is typically 5/8" thick w/ one smooth side & one rough side

WRC is light in physical weight, quite rot resistant, takes stain beautifully, then varnished for a natural wood finished product

many racing sailboats up to and thru the late 1960's were planked w/ WRC and finished natural

there is almost nothing any more beautiful than a yacht finished sailboat that is planked w/ WRC

if you have access to a thickness planer & a table saw or router, you can thin the planks down to 1/2" and cut the edges similar to LAP SIDING

over a 1/4" plywood(BCX-YP @ under $20/sheet) outer skin you can then add the WRC to achieve your desired look, whether in a horizontal or diagonal pattern

a combination of PL-PREMIUM adhesive and some carefully placed metalic fasteners(RINGSHANKED BRONZE BOAT NAILS would look KILLER, IMHO) for applicatiln of the WRC should do the trick

i agree w/ the suggestion to use thicker framing, which can be ripped out of virtually any species of "1 by" materials, to accomodate 3/4" foam insulating layer and ultimately skin the interior w/ 1/8" door skin ply(very common and inexpensive) for a smooth attractive finishable surface that you can "paper" w/ maps to your heart'z content...

the above suggestion to use EPOXY as a coating on the outside is not wrong, the folks who suggested it just forgot to tell you that most EPOXIES DON'T HAVE UV INHIBITORS in them and will eventually dull and go away, therefore EPOXY must be coated w/ a UV inhibiting coating like varnish...

1/4" marine plywood of miranti or okoume would, either one, look great finished w/ stain a/o varnish and would run you between $50 & $100/sheet depending on where you get it, if you pick it up or if you have to have it shipped to you

IF YOU LIKE/WANT WOOD BUILD IT W/ WOOD

sw

Awesome This will go on my list!!!

[Esteban]

Here's some inspiration: The Gallery. Camping Classics' Finished projects with photos of beautiful wood sided teardrops Steve Fredericks built. Steve fiberglassesd and varnished them. Varnish helps protect the epoxy and fiberglass cloth from UV (ultra violet) light damage.

Before I began building a teardrop I met a local man named Robert who used Douglas Fir plywood for his teardrop's outsides. He epoxied the boat grade Douglas Fir plywood sides and roof without using reinforcing fiberglass cloth. Over time it checked (cracked) in hundreds of places. Robert had to sand it down and do it over. That took him a lot of time and extra expense.

Some kinds of plywood, especially Douglas Fir, are prone to checking. Fiberglass cloth and epoxy can prevent plywood from checking.