VT800C wrote:ae6black wrote:Personally I'd be concerned about the locks on the doors. Not for keeping people out but about somebody messing with you and locking you in. I've had kids in youth groups that would love to lock me in a camper and then taunt me while I was locked in side. Just saying.
Art
I thought about that. Actually,
if the hasp is open and the lock on and locked, the hasp doesn't go far enough on to keep me from opening the door. With my 2 sons helping me, believe me, this was one of the first things I tried!
I will be using a screen door latch and handle for opening and closing when camping.
The sliding bolt latch I used was the second latch I tried; the first was a rotating post hasp (using a padlock to lock open or closed), but on my test piece, I couldn't get it to shut tightly enough to fully compress my automotive doorseals. I then tried to find a black swinging door latch, but none were available, so I measured (on a zinc-plated sample) the usable gap between the handle piece and the bolt receiver piece...I didn't think the bolt could reach far enough across my door gap to securely lock it. So, I tried the sliding bolt latch, but had to fill the open bolt receiver piece with a machined piece of black acetal rod, drilled just the right size to hold the bolt in the closed position (secured in position with a Spax screw from inside the trailer). I put a lot of effort in getting my prank-proof latch to work! And about using a "screen-door" latch & handle, I never saw one that couldn't be pulled open by a small child...they're not made strong enough. I said that my doorseals were hard to compress, right?, so I had to use something for an inside latch that could hold that compressed force...I took some thick aluminum square tubing (thick-walled stuff), and cut-off one side of it, to make a channel to snap another aluminum tube into, to keep the door shut in tight compression. Well, the inner aluminum could be stubborn to remove, so I switched to 3/4" oak dowels (very strong, easier to remove, and can be sawn thru if they stick!). I wish you luck with the screen door hardware, if you so choose to use it. I was building a secure fortress for my wife to camp in (she never has), so I took door security to heart. Note: I put my windows up high on my trailer for the same reason (a typical teardrop door/window just didn't look safe enough to me). But, that's just my way....

- rotating post hasp.jpg (51.05 KiB) Viewed 2648 times
wouldn't hold the door closed tight enough

- Swinging door latch.jpg (77.11 KiB) Viewed 2648 times
latching bolt wouldn't reach across the door gap

- Stanley sliding bolt door-gate latch.png (145.44 KiB) Viewed 2648 times
two locking positions, some modifications done to ensure tight fit