Ultrlight trailer build October 2016

[R. W. Alexander]

Build # 3 will start tomorrow. I sold build #2 a foamy because I had too many new ideas. So best to start new. I programmed the inner wall (3/4" CDX ply) supports, the outer, and inner skins, ( 7/32" plywood) and the insulation (3/4" ridged board insulation) I'm using the same lightweight A frame set up from build #2 (2" by 1/8" steel angle) and the Torsion half axles. What will change is the way I am building the support frame on the bottom. We all get the standard metal frame from Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, or make a metal frame ourselves. What if we integrated the support frame into the walls instead? and instead of steel, we use wood. I am planning on using only 3/4" plywood as the base frame with a 3" tall wood frame along the outside edge. The trailer is only 4' 6" wide by 8' long, so just a basic sleeping trailer, no standing.
More to come.

[azgreg]

Looking forward to this one. Have fun.

[R. W. Alexander]

Got the cutting of the walls done. After doing this 3 times it gets faster. The walls are made up of a 3/4" ply frame, and a inner and outer 1/4" ply wall. The inner wall has notches put in for the horizontal stringers that will connect the two sides. Each wall weighs less than 45 lbs. If you notice the door is a bit larger than most tear drops. On my last tear I wished I had more room to move in and out of the trailer.

[ELM]

Looking great.

[KCStudly]

I'm looking at the difference of where your model's seat is when laying down (not centered in the door) and sitting up (centered in the door) and am wondering if you have enough room with your fender location to allow the door to be moved back some.

[R. W. Alexander]

I'm looking at the difference of where your model's seat is when laying down (not centered in the door) and sitting up (centered in the door) and am wondering if you have enough room with your fender location to allow the door to be moved back some.

I added a additional 2" to the width of the door. It was 26" now it's 28". Which still gives me room for the fenders. The models are not accurately placed in the side view. They are just for reference, to give a idea of the size of the tear.

[R. W. Alexander]

Since I do not have access to sheet metal machines anymore. I had to improvise. I got some thin aluminum flashing from the hardware store. Cut it to length and width on a old paper cutter and bent it into a channel to fit over the door edges. I will then add a small trim piece of wood trim around the perimeter of the door and door opening, for looks.

[tony.latham]

Great looking work.

I assume you used some kind of template to rout out your doors?

Tony

[R. W. Alexander]

Great looking work.

I assume you used some kind of template to rout out your doors?

Tony

Nope, no template to route out the doors. Just a C.N.C. router. Makes things a lot easier.

I got one door on. The piano hinge is connected inside the door and wall jamb. I put on the decorative trim and started to do the wood molding that goes over the door edges. Those pieces will get stained to match the stain on the sides.

[R. W. Alexander]

Changed things a bit. Made recesses for the hinges and put them on the outside. I then made some wood covers that will go over the hinges.

[R. W. Alexander]

I was not satisfied with the aluminum trim over the edge of the door so I redesigned the door. Everything is now flush and clean looking. There is a 3/8" D gasket that the outside door will press against to keep wind driven water out. And even if the gasket got damaged, there is still a 3/8" lip on the inside. I also dry fitted the tinted windows I got off of Ebay. If you didn't notice there are some 1/4" extensions that go over the window and door. This will prevent water from getting in. And on me when opening the door after a rain storm. I intend on putting on a layer of epoxy on the exterior wood and door jamb surfaces.

[R. W. Alexander]

Finally was able to do some work on the tear drop. I had done the epoxying on the sides in November. 3 coats of clear epoxy, followed by 3 coats of Marine varnish. I bolted up the bottom ply to the frame, glued down the sides to the bottom with epoxy and added wood screws 6" O.C.

[Wolfgang92025]

looking good...

[friz]

Nice work!

Sent from my Altair 8800 using Tapatalk

[R. W. Alexander]

Got the insulation done, and the aluminum skin on. My son-in-law will help with the sanding, preping and spray painting of the aluminum.