Doors question.

[curtybird95]

I noticed when looking through a lot of builds that everyone makes them flush. Is there a reason to make them flush vs having it overlap the sidewall? I have to build mine next so i'm curious on what everyone thinks?

[QueticoBill]

I have been sketching and looking at products for building doors on my slow-to-get-going build and I feel like I can build a more weatherized seal by going flush, using to rabbets so the door overlaps in a way, with a silicon or qlon kerf seal compressed at the overlap. If the door is proud, It seems it will always be tough to not channel water into the gap at the top and, while moving, the forward edge.

[curtybird95]

I have been sketching and looking at products for building doors on my slow-to-get-going build and I feel like I can build a more weatherized seal by going flush, using to rabbets so the door overlaps in a way, with a silicon or qlon kerf seal compressed at the overlap. If the door is proud, It seems it will always be tough to not channel water into the gap at the top and, while moving, the forward edge.

Is there anyway you could post those skecthes? I'd really like to see them if you can!

[QueticoBill]

I'll try - I struggle with posting here but will work on that this weekend.

[aggie79]

Here's how I did mine:



The door sits "proud" of the sidewall by 1/8". This left room for a 3/16" seal around the t-molding on the outside of the door. It also left room for the same seal on the interior. I never put on the interior seal because the exterior seal worked well and didn't leak.

Part of the door discussion should include consideration of the type hinge you'll use.



I used strap hinges. To get the 1/8" offset, I put a 1/8" spacer under the sidewall side of the hinge. Also, I used t-molding on all sides of the doors including the hinge side. If you're going to use t-molding on the hinge side, you'll need to have the hinge centerline outside of the outer edge of the t-molding or the door won't open.

[QueticoBill]

This is where I'm heading. The "fins" in the upper view are for a wiley window - still working on detail so it drains properly to the outside. I'm intending the door basically extends from near roof - which would extend as drip cap - to trailer frame - so it drains down. I don't believe you can stop water from getting in a joint - just divert it so it drains and doesn't stand.

[KCStudly]

The wiley window frame looks like it might be close enough to the edge of the door that it will catch on the jamb when it swings. If you haven't already checked for that you can strike an arc from the hinge center and see if it crosses.

[QueticoBill]

The wiley window frame looks like it might be close enough to the edge of the door that it will catch on the jamb when it swings. If you haven't already checked for that you can strike an arc from the hinge center and see if it crosses.

I agree. Its a place holder and thinking about the construction and milling the hardwood frame now. I haven't quite resolved the drainage from the wiley window - so bottom sits on a ledge that drains to outside - and then I need to adjust the door width to fit available inexpensive tempered glass shelves available ( 24 x 12 or 14 seem common - which impacts how far I move axle back so door is far enough back so its comfortable to swing legs around and lie down. And the door skins are to come from the cut offs from the 4x8s used on 5' wide roof. So many piece and details to juggle.

That was all after I tried to figure out how to make a round wiley window. I'm convinced that is a dead end. Half round or arched top though can work and might add some character. And thought about just scaling the whole tear profile for window shape , but it looked a little corny when I drew it - what one architect friend referred to as a "frozen smile" - a visual gag that gets tires.

[Tomterrific]

Home made doors. I built square corner doors because I'm no craftsman. The part cut from the wall has 1x3's suround put around the outside with an one inch overlap. The door then will set in the cut door hole in the wall. I used another 1x3 on the wall next to the door to hinge the door. Another 1x is on wall top and the wall side opposite the hinge. The top has a gutter to catch water and the opening side has a locking screen door handle. These doors do not leak water in the heaviest rain even while towing. The gutter on top and the labrinth seal of the door keep the water out without a rubber seal.

Tom