New build, a standrop....Update 11-28-17

[Woodbutcher]

Made some more progress.... This trailer is being made in parts to be reassembled a little down the road. So I make parts and take them apart. LOL. I'll try and do the finishing of the inside walls and cabinets and then reassemble.

So I drilled my serving bowl sink without a problem. I used a hole saw and drilled from both sides. The plastic is very hard and did start to smoke alittle so I drizzled some water in while drilling and it helped. had to finish with a battery drill from the inside, but got a clean hole.



Next I worked on the interior cabinets up front. Above the AC unit will be 2 drawers. One for a small induction hot plate thingy and the other for utensils Etc. The cabinet on the front wall will have a drawer at the top and I'll leave the lower section open with a fabric curtain, or maybe a door, we will see. The 5 gallon water jugs need to come in and out there. The counter top will be covered in Formica Gray Boomerang pattern laminate. Cabinet above, on the road side will have doors. I've got some cool vintage chrome hardware for them. The large space on the front wall is for a toaster/convection oven. Open space is a table. The porta potty will be in that corner with a cabinet built over it. Sitting on a porta potty at the table seems wrong. So it will be enclosed in a bench seat.





This is the backside of the cabinet over the AC. I'm using soft maple framing with 1/8th inch Birch skins. Counter top is made the same way, except it has 1/4" plywood on top under the laminate.





Last thing of the day was put the skin on the inside of the road side wall. I used everything close by for weight.

[sagebrush]

On page 6 of WTW 2014 I posted a picture of Terry's (junkboy999) trailer. He has a slide out for his dog's bed.
The slides on our 5th wheel have a toothed rack with a pinion on each side. The pinions are connected with a shaft to move the slide in or out. There is a flange in the inside and outside of the slide with a "D" shaped rubber seal. Also on the outside of the wall there is a rubber wiper on top and sides.
That is about clear as mud, hope you can figure out what I am trying to describe.

[Woodbutcher]

I t6hink I have it Will. Next week I have to do paying work and then I'll get onto the pullout side. One way or the other I will figure it out.

[packerz4]

Looks great!

[noseoil]

" Sitting on a porta potty at the table seems wrong...." Have to agree with that statement. While economy of space & consolidation is laudable in a build, there are limits to proper hygiene & table etiquette, especially with company at dinner. It could qualify as a "free range rude" type of meal....

Looking really nice now. Great use of space & a light weight build. Moving along nicely!

[Woodbutcher]

Just to make you feel a little better noseoil, there will be an enclosed bench over the porta potty. That is what i will sit on. You will never see the potty. Plus, the space is too small for guests.

[OP827]

What kind of drawer slides and catches for them do you plan this time? I am doing drawers now and wanted to borrow your long experience here. I've never done drawers for trailers. Thanks!

[friz]

I'm just starting to catch onto the genius of what you have going on there! Outstanding use of space!

[Woodbutcher]

What kind of drawer slides and catches for them do you plan this time? I am doing drawers now and wanted to borrow your long experience here. I've never done drawers for trailers. Thanks!

Well, I use KV, (Knape & Vogt) Full extention slides. They make an 8400 series for RV with a positive stop, I may try this time. I usually just use their 8400 series slide with little trouble. I have added a secondary catch to a few drawers that were very heavy, loaded with cast iron. My favorite catch is called a "bulldog catch" It really hold well and also aligns a door or drawer. Some RV's use then.

You can also make a friction drawer, with no metal slide at all. You make the drawer just slightly smaller then the space it slides into. You recess the drawer bottom up 1/2" from the bottom of the drawer side. Then cut a small notch out of the drawer side, right behind the drawer front. This notch holds the drawer in place, as the notch drops over the face frame. When you want to open the drawer you must pick up the drawer to get over the notch and pull it out. The notch does not have to be more then 3/16th" .

Hope this helps.


Here is a picture showing the slides. The drawer front was not on yet.

[OP827]

Thank you for explanation and sharing your experience. I think I need to have full extension drawers due to pots sizes and small height/space I have available.
I sourced ball sliders with detente, but could you tell me more about this bulldog catch?
Is that the one: https://www.wwhardware.com/bulldog-catch-la65-br? So they hold stronger than others?

Did you think of using "elbow catch" with some sort of access hole?

Also there are 20mm push pull knobs on ebay, but I have no experience with them and don't have time to wait for postage, too long. Need to build sooner.

[Woodbutcher]

I am not familiar with the term elbow catch. The bulldog catch you show the link to is the one I am talking about. They hold very well. You will need a tug to open them and that is what makes them so nice for the trailers. The cheapest way to go is the bulldog and the handle of your choice. Bulldog also makes another catch. It is a flat plate catch instead of the 90 degree catch. It would make it easier to use on the back of a drawer box for a positive catch.

[OP827]

I saw this elbow catch in homedepot locally, looks like this(some pic from web):

It is a positive catch, not just a spring loaded ball or ring. It holds like a latch with a spring, just small.
Did not see them used for drawers, they are designed for doors.
After looking at it, I had this idea if I make drawers front openings similar to a picture below then it could be possible to locate this elbow catch on the side under that drawer front opening to unlock by pushing the elbow latch inside and pull out/open the drawer.
I hope it is possible to understand what I am trying to describe here.


I am interested to know what do you think of such idea. Sorry for hijacking your build thread.

[Woodbutcher]

I would not be inclined to use a catch like that. It takes up to much space and requires to many extra steps. Try the slides by themselves. If they are not secure enough add the Bulldog catch, or a simple lock. Your mileage may vary.

[OP827]

That is a good point, thank you.

[OP827]

Woodbutcher, I appreciate your light weight cabinetry walls out of 1/8 plywood, I did the same in my build. Now allow me to ask, how are you building your cabinet doors and drawer faces to keep it light?