TG teardrop

[Chris H.]

I'm just purchasing a car at the moment and I want to build a teardrop to tow behind it, Why call it a TG teardrop? Well, the car is a TG Sports which is an MG TF replica using an older Mazda NA series MX-5/Miata 1.6 auto drivetrain. This means I need something lightweight.
I also have a couple of requirements. I want to be able to fit a mattress 2030mm x 1530mm/80" x 60"(5'x 6'8") and I want to add a toilet with standing headroom.

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[Chris H.]

Given these requirements and the fact that I like the Cub shape but wider to accommodate the mattress, I'm thinking about basing it on the New Cub Lightweight but doing something like the New Kampmaster/Wild Goose for a longer than normal Cub rear hatch and an enclosed awning to provide the standing room.

In order to keep the weight down, I was thinking about building a torsion box base like the Singcore panels but including the axle and drawbar within it and then building foam core SIP type structure on top. I also thought I could use 3mm corrugated cardboard to build the honeycomb to help reduce the weight.

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Hatch awning Kampmaster - Wild Goose 5.jpg (48.32 KiB) Viewed 6773 times

build Singcore torsion box SIP - could use 3mm corrugated cardboard for the honeycomb.jpg (49.7 KiB) Viewed 6773 times

[Chris H.]

Integrating the trailer chassis and the floor will also lower the overall height slightly. I'm also thinking about being able to drop the floor when parked and/or adding a dropped footwell/s where needed to help create more vertical space.

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[Chris H.]

For the rear hatch, I was thinking of doing something like this so that the awning can remain permanently attached to the outside of the raised edge so providing a seal when the hatch is open but still inside the hatch when it is closed therefore only requiring the hatch being opened to be set up. Maybe use some sort of elastic cord to pull it in when closing it.

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[Chris H.]

The rear area apart from housing the toilet could be treated like a wet room and also serve as a space for showering if required. The cooking could be done with some sort of slide out kitchen or built-into the front of the camper as it would only have a straight drawbar as an obstruction. Could also add some extra removable bench space on the side/s.

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[Chris H.]

I should also mention the need for a toilet and decent room around it, is that there are regulations in New Zealand that have minimum requirements to be met to get it certified as a self-contained camper which opens up a lot more places I can use it. I'll also have to add a minimum 24l/6 US gallon fresh water tank and a 24l/6 US gallon waste water tank to meet the requirements.

[Chris H.]

I've been giving some thought to the dropping floor and I think I need to go with permanent footwell/s to try and maintain as much strength/rigidity in the floor. I'm thinking that the floor/chassis should be a 50mm/2" thick core to capture the axle and drawbar. I'll add solid mounting points in the corners for mounting stabilisers.

I'm looking to see if I can integrate a slim line galley at the front with a front hatch for access, means hatches at both ends so a little more work involved.


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[aggie79]

Looks like an interesting set of design challenges. I'll be following this to see what you come up with.

[Chris H.]

I don't have a rated maximum towing capacity for my vehicle at this stage but as it is basically the same weight and dimensions as the MX-5/Miata drivetrain donor vehicle I'm going with 750kg/1653lbs which is a rating the NA series MX-5/Miata had. I'm seeking clarification with the authorities at the moment.

I've been giving more thought about putting the galley at the front and how to deal with the drawbar hindering access. I'm now thinking of making the floor slightly deeper to contain a larger section RHS extending the full trailer length which I will use to insert a removable drawbar. This means clear access to the galley will be possible but it will require front stabilisers being added. It will also provide a rear hitch for mounting a removable bike rack. I was looking at using torsion suspension half axles and strengthening of the floor/chassis side rail internally for their attachment but I will now look at going with a full-width axle cut in half with mounting plates added so I can bolt the two halves to the new larger full-length central spine to better deal with the rotational forces from the torsion suspension.

Something else I would like to consider is adding double side doors to really open it up on those nice days and they would also provide real ease of access. I would also like a skylight for bringing in the light and creating a sense of space and one that I could open would be even better.

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[Chris H.]

Further to the skylight, I also came across this idea of a removable external sunshade.

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[Chris H.]

I quite like the idea of this swiss army knife style unfolding galley idea that could be adapted to work at the front.

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[Chris H.]

Another idea is to build a swing out galley set in a storage box something like this. It could even be built to be two halves that swing out each side creating a U-shaped galley.

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[Chris H.]

This is the toilet I'm looking at using. It has a swing away shutter to hide the waste, just turn the knob to open it when in use, waste goes straight into a container which is a readily available plastic pail at a hardware store that will be lined with a compostable bag. Reduces cleaning and easy to get additional containers if needed. The urine will be plumbed from the diverter to the waste tank. The toilet has a built-in 12v fan exhausted to an external vent running 24/7 to dry out the waste and prevent any smell inside. The fan is a common computer fan so spares are easy and cheap to get. I might put on a solar powered vent to deal with it

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[Chris H.]

I'm allowing about 760mm/30" x 1530mm/60" floor area for the wetroom toilet/shower space. Either a shower curtain or a canvas cover for the toilet should keep the toilet dry when using the shower. This wetroom area will also be good for storing wet freediving and bodyboard gear when traveling.

[Chris H.]

Just had a realization that putting the galley at the front, and especially if I put it in a swingout box, would put way too much weight on the hitch. Yes, I could move the axle forward to compensate but it would have to be so far forward that it would be no good for towing or reversing. Thoughts are now of how can I put the wetroom at the front, still have a storage box AND have reasonably quick and easy access to the toilet when required. Might need to consider something other than a Cub shape as I think having a flat front will be better for this layout to maximise the floor space. Maybe something like a Benroy or a Jim Dandy Sportsman with a lift up front hatch and attached awning and a swing out storage box that exposes a canvas door in the awning to access the wetroom. What do you think would look better behind the car? Maybe something else altered to have a flat front? Don't forget to imagine a storage box as well. Open to suggestions.

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