I am trying to figure out the jacks for my trailer. I want to be able to lift nd support the trailer on the jacks not just take the bounce out. Also need quite a bit of lift as the frame will sit about 23" off the ground so standard trailer jacks seem to come up a bit short. At the moment I am leaning toward using slide in pickup camper jacks at the four corners but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.
They might if i could find ones with enough extension. My worry with those was suspending the trailer whells off yhe ground for both uneven ground and during storage. I was just looking at northern and thinking with some injinuity and some brackets that these might work
2manytoyz wrote:They might if i could find ones with enough extension. My worry with those was suspending the trailer whells off yhe ground for both uneven ground and during storage. I was just looking at northern and thinking with some injinuity and some brackets that these might work
Quite expensive and you will not like them as they ratchet up and down like old bumper jacks and are heavy and sometime difficult to work with... I have one that we take out when in Jeep and its at best a last resort tool because of its size and some times orneriness to use and stability issues... And the uptight rail is not hard secure in base so if you are trying to put camper up on 4 of these it will not be stable.... It is good for lifting a single corner only and pretty much requires rest of vehicle firmly on ground for stability.. Go to local Tractor Supply or local 4 wheel drive (off road) emporium and look at them before you commit to purchase... Personally I would stay away from them for what you want...
For full lift off ground at four corners I would consider nothing less the hydraulic jacks like uses to remove campers off PU truck beds....
Dale
Lives his life vicariously through his own self.
Any statement made by me are strictly my own opinion. You are free to ignore anything I say if you do not agree.
Very good points thank you Dale. Once you mentioned the stability it mkes perfect ense as I have used them offroad neumerous times sometimes with good sucess sometimes not to much. I was trying to cheap and it was silly of me.
I welded on scissor jacks and just going to put 4x4s under them at all 4 corners. With a cordless impact driver takes about 90 seconds to drop all 4 (though I'm only using them to stabilize, no take all the weight off the axles)
We do not use jacks, other than the tongue jack. I use Lynx Levelers under the wheels and have yet to exceed their ability to level the tear. I have also looked at the Lippert 285332 30" Scissor Jack for tire changing etc.
Tigris99 wrote:I welded on scissor jacks and just going to put 4x4s under them at all 4 corners. With a cordless impact driver takes about 90 seconds to drop all 4 (though I'm only using them to stabilize, no take all the weight off the axles)
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I have the drop down type and find them very frustrating to use to get that exact height needed. They are hard to use to fine tune things. I have watched others with scissor jacks and a power driver and I think I want to make the swap to them. They are very simple to adjust.
I also have used a hydraulic jack before and they can do the job.
Bob
First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722 Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/
goto your local farm/utility trailer yards and take a gander at what 's called LANDING GEAR for the front of gooseneck trailers
they also use LANDING GEAR on most 5th wheel travel trailers
they can be either manually operated or 12v/button operated
there is an inner sliding/pinned leg that protrudes from the bottom which will equalize your stance within an inch or so and that can be accommodated w/ a wood shim
just this LAZY old man's 2¢ worth
sw
"we are the people our parents warned us about" jb
Consider installing BAL LIGHT TRAILER STABILIZING JACKS. There are two versions. Model #23025 extends up to 17". Model #23026 extends up to 20".
I installed two BAL jacks at 45 degree outward facing angles for increased stability on the rear of my trailer frame.
LIGHT TRAILER STABILIZING JACK
For use on tent trailers, lightweight travel trailers and fifth wheels with up to 20" of frame-to-ground clearance.
Includes crank handle (Model 23033).
Ideal replacement for Atwood, Fulton and other non-screw design corner stands. Super low profile storage (2"). Bolt-on application; mounting hardware included. 1,000 lb. static capacity per jack. Rust-inhibiting E-coating for long life.
The Socket Jenie LVSG-630 is designed for trailers that use the BAL screw stabilizer jacks, such as COLEMAN, VIKING, CLIPPER and APACHE. This socket requires a 1/2" drill chuck, and can be used with 110V or battery operated drills. The bit fits the BAL Light Trailer Stabilizing Jack which uses an acme screw to lower and return it to the stored position. Due to the pitch of the screw threads the use of this socket with a drill moves the jack extremely fast, and caution should be used when returning it to the storage position. Because of the jack geometry and the momentum of the drill motor it will snap back into the storage position, potentially breaking the ears of the socket. KNOWN BRANDS USING THIS STYLE: Coachmen, Viking, Forest River, Mallard, Jayco, Apache, Coleman, and Fleetwood to name a few. Sold individually
Made from a single piece of steel Features a grey corrosion resistant finish The stem has been specially machined to eliminate slipping in the drill chuck. Use with a Cordless or Electric 1/2" Drill Fits BAL Light Trailer Stabilizing Jack Lifetime Warranty
Be sure to use caution - Because of the jack geometry and the momentum of the drill motor it will snap back into the storage position, potentially breaking the ears of the socket. Socket Jenie For BAL Light Trailer Stabilizing Jacks
I like the profile when up for these BAL stablizers better then the scissor type. I have changed my want list to include this type.
Bob
First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722 Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/
I am trying to keep everything tucked in myself. my frame is 1/4" thickness tubing do it can take one heck of a hit with no damage. I am trying to keep all items above that so they do not get damaged by impacts.
2manytoyz wrote:I am trying to keep everything tucked in myself. my frame is 1/4" thickness tubing do it can take one heck of a hit with no damage. I am trying to keep all items above that so they do not get damaged by impacts.
Somewhere on this site I believe I saw these installed tucked up inside the frame. These are 2" deep according to website. Doesn't seem hard, even if it took a couple of plates welded on frame just under deck. With a light enough trailer and well secured deck to frame, not sure they couldn't be bolted to deck.
by KennethW » Fri May 05, 2017 6:49 am 
