Off Road Grumman 2ish (5x5x10) Build

[KCStudly]

Fake/old credit or medical cards, or used gift cards make great squeegees. Also like Bondo brand spreaders. Just be careful not to pull your weave out of position.

Another tip is to trim the edge closer when wet, about 1/2 inch or less; that way it doesn't tend to try and droop of the corner, which in turn lifts the fabric right next to the edge, resulting in a ridge or dry cloth/bubbles.

Aim for about 1:1 epoxy weight to cloth weight for the initial wet out; more, about 1.5:1 if doing dry on dry.

[DWT77]

DWT77, using a SQUEEGIE may help

i have had similar results and have been using the stuff FOR YEARS...

when i got turned onto SQUEEGIES the job went faster and the results have been much more pleasing to the eye

once you cut the glass and lay it down on your surface that has been pre wet put a cup of POX in your off hand and begin pouring a small amount in the center and SQUEEGIE the POX out toward the edges

you can second coat POX as it gets tacky and will have a thicker coating rather than sanding when dry and adding the 2nd coat which can result w/ 2 layers

your intention to pre-coat intended flat surfaces on level flat surfaces is SOUND

sw

SW, I used a bondo spreader and actually was able to wet it out pretty decent. Just had to learn the proper angle with the spreader. That way it would wet out the cloth and wood, plus not pull/raise my cloth.

The main problem I had was the additional coats. I did wait for the first coat to get tacky. Then I used the spreader and a brush for the second coat. For some reason I could not get it to level out correctly. Some parts were nice and others still showed the cloth. I tried to brush it around/level it to make it look better.

Since that wasn't working, I waited for the second coat to get tacky. I figured well maybe a third will be easier to fill in the low areas. Still didn't work. Practice will help I guess. I did pick up an epoxy roller. Maybe that will help for the additional coats? Overall I got good coverage just looks like crap lol

Thanks for the help!

[DWT77]

Another tip is to trim the edge closer when wet, about 1/2 inch or less; that way it doesn't tend to try and droop of the corner, which in turn lifts the fabric right next to the edge, resulting in a ridge or dry cloth/bubbles.

KC overall/mostly I was able to get it to wet out with no problems. I could definitely tell the difference in the second half of my layout than the first half. Hopefully the roller helps with the additional coats.

Thanks for the tip about cutting the cloth closer. I did notice bubbles on the edge. I also kept bumping it while I was reaching over into the middle of the plywood.

[Heifer Boy]

The main problem I had was the additional coats. I did wait for the first coat to get tacky. Then I used the spreader and a brush for the second coat. For some reason I could not get it to level out correctly. Some parts were nice and others still showed the cloth. I tried to brush it around/level it to make it look better.

Since that wasn't working, I waited for the second coat to get tacky. I figured well maybe a third will be easier to fill in the low areas. Still didn't work. Practice will help I guess. I did pick up an epoxy roller. Maybe that will help for the additional coats? Overall I got good coverage just looks like crap lol

Thanks for the help!

For the additional coats wet on wet I always used a small foam roller or a really short nap one. First coat was done using a spreader like described but the subsequent coats go on really well and evenly with a roller.

[KCStudly]

I wonder if your tack wasn't tacky enough. Not sure if it is possible, but if it wasn't tacky enough in spots perhaps the weave "floated" (or was pushed) up.

[DWT77]

:thinking: I wonder if your tack wasn't tacky enough. Not sure if it is possible, but if it wasn't tacky enough in spots perhaps the weave "floated" (or was pushed) up.

I did put the second coat on to soon. I figured that out about a 1/4 into the second coat. I stopped and waited about an hour before putting on the rest of the second coat. For the third coat I waited 2 hours.

I thought it would set up quicker then it did. Of course I had only tested a small board and checked it well after the epoxy had dried. I had noticed how fast it sets up in a cup so that is what I was kinda going off of.

After reading Raka manual a little more it states "Generally speaking, for up to twenty four hours you can re-coat without sanding and still get a good chemical bond" Which the 24 hours seems a little long because mine had definitely set up by the next morning

I think I have a better feel of what I need to do now. Hopefully anyways

[DWT77]

Tonight I finished sanding the fiberglass. I started with 60 grit orbital sander and found that wasn't working very fast. Then I tried the belt sander with 80 grit and that took to much off to fast. Then I switched over to 120 grit on the belt sander and found that worked the best for me.

After sanding and cleaning off the fiberglass I put down the Grip#4 adhesion promoter. Waited about 20 minutes and sprayed it with Raptor Bed Liner.

It took about 2.5 bottles for 2 coats and to get the coverage I wanted (Plywood is about 5x9). Once you start a bottle you may as well use it, so I just finished off the plywood with the remainder of the bottle.

In a few days when that is good and dry I will flip it over and start marking out the dados I will need for my flooring system.

[DWT77]

Today I got the top side of my floor completed. I got the dados done for the dividers that will make up my storage area. I may cut those down a couple of inches. They seem a little tall and I'm sure an extra couple of inches in the cabin would be nice.

Then I sprayed it with bed liner. I taped off edge so I can wet it out and apply epoxy when I go to permanently install the sidewalls.




















Here is a topic where I asked the best way to mount the wall to the floor since I was using bed liner.
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=68119

[DWT77]

I got the external side of the walls fiberglassed this weekend. I made sure I squeegeed my first coat off really well. Then I waited 2-3 hours in between coats. I used the roller below and it seemed to really even out the coats. I also didn't use near as much epoxy doing it this way. The last image is 3 coats of epoxy and no sanding in between coats. Next I will sand the fiberglass and spray the area that will be behind the wheel well with bed liner spray. I figure now would be the best time since it will be in the way when I install the walls. Then I will start to mate the exterior walls together.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006 ... UTF8&psc=1

[Dirtclod]

Looking Good !!

Refresh my memory, Is this going to be a woody or are you going to go Aluminum?

[DWT77]

Looking Good !!

Refresh my memory, Is this going to be a woody or are you going to go Aluminum?

I am actually going to bed liner spray the exterior. I am going to get the tintable bed liner spray and match it to the same color as the new Toyota Tacoma Cement color. Hopefully it turns out ok. I just wanted to fiberglass it for extra protection.

[Dirtclod]

I am actually going to bed liner spray the exterior. I am going to get the tintable bed liner spray and match it to the same color as the new Toyota Tacoma Cement color. Hopefully it turns out ok. I just wanted to fiberglass it for extra protection.

I cant wait to see the results. NICE Truck by the way

[DWT77]

I got my two exterior walls sanded down. Then I got one coat of bed liner sprayed. I wanted to get part of them done because when I put up the walls the fenders will be in the way so I wouldn't be able to spray that area. I didn't go all the way to the top because I still need to fiberglass where the wall and roof edge meet together.

I wanted a smoother finish for my walls than I did with my floor I sprayed previously. I did some research and found a way to reduce the bed liner so it is not as coarse.
Fine texture using a HVLP Gravity Fed Gun -
15% Urethane Reducer -
1.6-2.0mm Tip -
29 PSI -
Spray at a distance of at least 6" from the surface -
Spray one even, wet coat, and then a second coat reducing the pressure and material flow to achieve a fine mist

Amounts used
750 ml = 25.3 oz – Raptor Bed liner
250 ml = 8.4 oz – Hardner
150ml = 5.0 oz – Urethane Reducer
100 ml = 3.3 oz – toner/paint

It's definitely slower than using the schultz gun but you also get about 25% more coverage out of the bed liner adding the reducer.











I will have to add another coat. Then they are ready to put the wiring in for the switches and mate together.

One day it will look like a teardrop trailer!

[2manytoyz]

Very cool build looking foreword too seeing it progress.

Brian

[Dirtclod]

That looks really nice. I love the fact that you were able to get it smooth.

I may have to look into this vs aluminum.