kathy chorjel wrote:Thanks Cindy, Don, and McDave. I have never even heard of double square screw heads! Previously I took one to the local ACE when having trouble with removal and the gent there just thought it was stripped out also... Glad to learn so many things here.
Don, I am in east central Fl, so the heat and humidity are a huge factor. I really knew deep down I would have to insulate, just trying to talk myself into it I guess. The factory put in the bubble wrap insulation in the ceiling. I am thinking it won't be enough, but will probably use McDaves suggestion on the paint and try to not tear that up too. I figure to try it out before putting all the trim back on after insulating the sides. Do I need to do the ramp also? I saw on that you did on your build and am wondering if it will make that much of a difference, it seems pretty sturdy. Thanks again all!
I am in East Central FL also.... same environment.
The ramp is also the rear wall and needs to be insulated. This was my logic when I insulated: White trailer helps... Each foam panel taped and spray foamed (where needed) to prevent thermal bypass.
1) Double in the ceiling as it get's the direct sun. The front half of the roof is covered with solar panels so that keeps the heat off. I am going to get the Henry roof coating for the back half later this summer.
2) 3/4 inch thick foam panels in the walls with 1/4 inch air gap. Park facing south on the awning side and that shades one side most of the day. The opposite side mostly shades itself.
3) Double insulation (1 and 1/2 inches) in the ramp because there was room and it will get a lot of sun also.
With this insulation in a 7*18 with 2ft V, I can cool adequately with a 6000 BTU unit in the summer and run off a small Honda 2000 Watt generator (or solar and batteries for 4 to 5 hours via the inverter) which is nice for several reasons which you can imagine. Good insulation makes that possible. Of course, I could park in the shade to help, but I depend on the sun for power. Another thing to note... even without AC, I can run the Maxxair fan and the inside of the trailer gets no hotter than the outside air temperature. Heat does not build up any faster than the fan can evacuate it and the interior walls do not radiate significant heat.
The bubble wrap in the ceiling probably is not going to cut it for Florida. If you are going to be in campgrounds with power, you could get a 13,500 BTU ceiling AC . That will cool it regardless...
Sorry.. not good news... but it is the reality. I think you will regret it later if you do not get the insulation in now... these trailers can be ovens in the sun due partly to the aluminum skin.