The Astroliner

[KCStudly]

With the West System they have a special hardener, 207, that is supposed to dry clear and not yellow or cloud due to humidity. It is specifically marketed for applications where you want the "wood grain" (or fancy paint job) to show through nicely. Might be something worth considering over regular laminating epoxy.

[Atomic77]

With the West System they have a special hardener, 207, that is supposed to dry clear and not yellow or cloud due to humidity. It is specifically marketed for applications where you want the "wood grain" (or fancy paint job) to show through nicely. Might be something worth considering over regular laminating epoxy.

You're correct KC... The laminating epoxy I use by West is amber in color. I'll be using Pro Marine's table top epoxy designed for this purpose. It also has UV properties that laminating epoxy doesn't have.

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[KCStudly]

Excellent. I was thrown off by the picture of the general purpose stuff.

[Atomic77]

I was too! But they actually make a laminating epoxy then they make a general-purpose that is used for table tops, artwork and encapsulation. But you're right it is confusing. I had to email the company to be sure.

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[Atomic77]

Excellent. I was thrown off by the picture of the general purpose stuff.

Have you poured it before KC? The only thing I'm concerned about really is the drips on the bottom edge of the piece. I see in videos several ways to deal with it, some people foam brush the drips, others use a stir stick to scrape them off, some use a razor blade when it's soft and some just sand the lip after it sets up fully. I'm torn between which method will give me the most perfect results.

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[KCStudly]

I wouldn't worry too much about the underside. I'm in the "walk-away and deal with it the next day" camp. I mean, yes, try to get what you can when it is still wet, but shave the rest after cure. I find a small 1 inch paint scraper, or even a matchbox plane works well.

[KCStudly]

... no I have never done a poured/encapsulating coat. I would worry about bubbles. Maybe, in addition to the torch waving, I wonder if agitating from underneath with a palm sander would have any positive effect getting the bubbles to rise(?).

[Atomic77]

Hadn't thought of that. I also read that a heat gun will pop the bubbles but also increases the possibility of getting dust in the piece.

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[Atomic77]

Even though USPS said next Tuesday for a delivery on the Epoxy, it came today. I was pretty excited so I mustered up some energy and did the pour. Now, I don't want to get all premature about it, but at this point it looks great! I followed the directions to a "T" and things went very well. I had some bubbles, which were expected, so I used the heat gun on the lowest air setting and the highest heat setting. A quick pass over the surface and they vanished. I also used a foam brush right at the end to get the bulk of the drips. I figured it would save me some sanding later. I am amazed at the leveling properties of the product. At first it highlighted any dips in the surface and caused my blood pressure to rise. But after about 15 minutes it self leveled and looks like glass. Somehow I kept it dirt free so I'm hoping it stays that way and I won't have to cut and buff. Also it's crystal clear. I know it won't see much UV but the Galley is right in front of a window so I'm glad I got the one with UV protectant. As far as the shine goes, well, it's super slick and about the same as the Imron Elite clear that I use, the difference being this coating is super tough and durable and should withstand the test of time and accidentally dropped utensils!

Now to recover and start on the Dinette table one of these days!

[Atomic77]

Saturday update! I spent the day hanging out with my brother, making sawdust, talking Campers and Hotrod's.

We were able to finally figure out a plan for the AquaKing, Instant on Hot Water Heater.



After some rough calculations regarding the air intake needs of the unit, we built a fire proof (ok, technically flame resistant) enclosure out of some Fiberglass Green Board. We chose this products specifically because of its flame resistant properties and considerable weight difference when compared to cement board.





Once the fireproof enclosure was built in, we did something that I've been waiting to do for a long time! We finally lined the interior of the closet with cedar. I love cedar and the smell is absolutely therapeutic! The entire coach now has that fragrant, woodsy aroma!





We added a door and closed in the secret compartment.





Next trip down we can run water and gas lines and finish up the 3" flue.

Until next time... Happy Building!

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[OP827]

I got a question Michael. How to you plan on doing the heater air intake and fumes exhaust, through the exterior wall? As always, great work and I love cedar smell!

[Atomic77]

I got a question Michael. How to you plan on doing the heater air intake and fumes exhaust, through the exterior wall? As always, great work and I love cedar smell!

To answer your questions Oleg, the fireproof cabinet is vented into the fridge cabinet which is vented to the outdoors through the sidewall. According to our calculations, this should be enough air to keep the O2 sensor happy. If not, we've already planned ahead for the addition of another thru-wall vent for fresh air if necessary. On the exhaust, there will be a 90 degree elbow through the wall with a termination hood on the outside of the wall that will keep water and critters out.

[KCStudly]

Ah yes cedar. Love that smell.

[Atomic77]

Ah yes cedar. Love that smell.

Yep, I love it. Should have done the entire cabin in it!

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[Atomic77]

I needed something to mess around with today, so I drilled the 1.5" hole in the counter top and dry fit the faucet. I think we matched it to the graphics pretty well! As soon as the cabinet is ready the counter top can be installed!





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