7x7x16 V Nose Cargo Trailer Conversion, First Build

[RixPlace1]

My suggestion only addresses a toilet.Originally I had mentally committed self to a Natures Head unit @ 1000$.But when its way to hot to be working on trailer I research other ideas.I found on youtube a site called TheFitRV. WWW.TheFitRV.com.A couple who have a Sprinter type RV, upscale but really informative about buying ,using and good ideas.They had recently a wildly interesting segment relating to a Cassette type toilet.There is a lot of humor and self deprecating back and forth. Nice folks to watch.They gave a thumbs down on a cassette toilet and the reasons why. And exchanged it for a Thetford(sp.) about 100$ to 125$.Convinced me to go the Thetford way instead of Natures Head. I spent almost 2 years on the road ten years ago with a beautiful 25" Airstream.The only part I REALLY disliked and I mean REALLY, was the dumping waste and the hose, et al.Ignoring the doing until abso necessary,hauling almost 150# of waste, sometimes free dumping and mostly paying,but understand that building a dumpsite is costly

[jr9744]

So it's been a little slow going these last few weeks. Life happens, and my motivation waned a little bit. But then I think about sitting at a state park, waking up and having some coffee, and then taking a hike along a nice river with the pooch, then starting my work day (Hillsborough State Park in my mind since I was just there, in case anyone know of this park). So yeah, I thought I would set some goals and start moving forward on this project.

My goal for this week is to install the onshore power inlet, the water inlet, and 3 of the windows. It'll mean me taking my first stab at cutting the trailer.

I picked up about 5 Hehr used windows for 20 bucks each. One is a big escape window. I may not use them all, but I couldn't stay away from them for the price. While I start building the window framing and framing for the inlets, I figured I would take apart the windows so I can start preparing them.

Assembled Window Front


Assembled Window Back


Dissasembled Window


My plan is to spray paint this window black and make all the seals black too.

If you look at the picture of the disassembled window with the Herr label on it, you'll notice some black tape they used to seal the window in place. Anyone know what this is called and if I can get it at home depot?

Also, the trim that was once white is super dirty. Anyone have any tricks on cleaning this? Like maybe soaking it in something? I plan to paint black, but I want to clean it first.

Also, i'll have to install these vertically because they are too wide to fit between my studs. They were meant to be horizontal. Any things I should watch out for while doing this? I noticed it had slits on the bottom which I assume is for water run off, but those will not be facing downward when I'm done.

[hankaye]

jr9744, Howdy;

When you said,
"Also, i'll have to install these vertically because they are too wide to fit between my studs. They were meant to be horizontal. Any things I should watch out for while doing this? I noticed it had slits on the bottom which I assume is for water run off, but those will not be facing downward when I'm done."

You are correct about the slits being for water drainage. With them on the side water can and will become trapped
in the frame and will most likely end up creating corrosion damage and/or mold and even a leak into the cabin area.
The choice is yours.

hank

[jr9744]

jr9744, Howdy;

When you said,
"Also, i'll have to install these vertically because they are too wide to fit between my studs. They were meant to be horizontal. Any things I should watch out for while doing this? I noticed it had slits on the bottom which I assume is for water run off, but those will not be facing downward when I'm done."

You are correct about the slits being for water drainage. With them on the side water can and will become trapped
in the frame and will most likely end up creating corrosion damage and/or mold and even a leak into the cabin area.
The choice is yours.

hank

I took a close look at those slits. I think I can replicate them on the side that I will face down. There is also a slit on the inside I will have to do. If the window can handle being placed in the vertically structurally, then I think I am o.k. That is my main concern. I don't want this window breaking or crumbling because it's on the wrong side.

[Padilen]

I saw windows that have, slits on horizontal and vertical. But little plastic plugs in those not used. Window mounted vertically would have horizontal holes unplugged, and vise versa. Might have been on an RnR trailer.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

[jr9744]

I saw windows that have, slits on horizontal and vertical. But little plastic plugs in those not used. Window mounted vertically would have horizontal holes unplugged, and vise versa. Might have been on an RnR trailer.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I'm going back and forth on the windows. I'm thinking about going to HD and seeing if I can find a cheap one that fits between my studs. Still on the fence. I"ll be thinking about this over the next few days.

I have installed my power inlet and my water inlet.

Power Inlet Hole. The cut wasn't perfect, but it worked. I used a Ryobi multi tool thing for the cut. I also did not want to cut over the metal siding, but my measurements were off.


This was the frame I made for the power inlet. I would not recommend using OSB for the wood, it doesn't grip so tight. The circular shape of the inlet also was a pain.


I bought the Kreg tool for cabinets, but figured I could use it to add the left side of my frame for the power inlet after I attached the main piece to the studs.


Inlet power and frame installed inside view. Also hole for the water inlet.


Frame for the water inlet. I used 2x2 wood framing.


Water inlet installed interior view


Both inlets from the outside. Unfortunately they are pretty crooked, but are very solid and I know will not come loose easily. Also notice that I used some clear Dap stuff to caulk the power inlet. This worked terribly. I will clean this up and use a Dap white caulk I bought. Feels like it works and looks better.


As I've read before on the Forum's, cutting the hole is the easy part. Building the frame and trying to make sure the inlets are straight are more challenging. Finding the right caulk is also important. I'll be cleaning the power inlet and using another caulk I bought for the water inlet. Trial and error.

Also, I'd probably buy better inlets. These seem pretty cheap. It's worth spending more for quality inlets. I figure if these don't last long, I will just replace them with better ones.

My plan now is to paint the floors with some kind of sealer. Then I plan on doing all the framing. I wish I would have done framing before insulation. I find that the framing helps you know where stuff will go and help you run electric wires.

[Padilen]

I did not frame my inlets. Because they have flanges holes were cut by wall up rights. This allowed the flanges to go into an up right. I used butyl for sealing.

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[jr9744]

I did not frame my inlets. Because they have flanges holes were cut by wall up rights. This allowed the flanges to go into an up right. I used butyl for sealing.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

'

I just bought some. I'll use this when I get it. I've read about Butyl tape. I will also use this for the windows.

Looking at the seal for the aluminum that came on the trailer, I realize now that this looks like Butyl tape.

[McDave]

Hey jr,
Well alright, got those first holes under your belt. It can be nerve wracking cutting into the side of a perfectly good trailer. By the time this all over you'll be just itchin' to punch another hole somewhere. No sweat. One method for locating things that go through walls where you want them is to drill tiny pilot holes. So, you decided where the outlet is going from the outside. Hold that baby where you like it and either mark the mounting holes with a pen /marker if you can reach through the mounting holes to the side, then drill, or use a small drill bit to go through the holes and mark or drill through side. It may be tough to get the drill into a tight space like the power inlet if the cover interferes. I have used toothpicks with a dab o' paint to make marks before. You could also make templates then use those to mark or drill.
Remember the old saying, "Measure twice, then go have a smoke and a beer come back and measure again, and cut once." Works for me most of the time...

McDave

[jr9744]

Hey jr,
. One method for locating things that go through walls where you want them is to drill tiny pilot holes. So, you decided where the outlet is going from the outside. Hold that baby where you like it and either mark the mounting holes with a pen /marker if you can reach through the mounting holes to the side, then drill, or use a small drill bit to go through the holes and mark or drill through side. It may be tough to get the drill into a tight space like the power inlet if the cover interferes. I have used toothpicks with a dab o' paint to make marks before. You could also make templates then use those to mark or drill.
Remember the old saying, "Measure twice, then go have a smoke and a beer come back and measure again, and cut once." Works for me most of the time...
McDave

I agree McDave. I wanted to get stuff done and probably moved to fast with those holes. I"ll use your advise with the windows. And it was good to get some holes out of the way.

So this morning I decided to paint the floor to give it a little protection.

Before picture of the floor


I just bought Glidden exterior paint. For 20 bucks, I figure it can only help and is worth it.


I managed 2 coats with this paint. I also painted the ramp door


Ramp Door


Floor from the inside


I plan on building the frame for the bathroom and cabinet that will house the batteries and power items tomorrow. Once I have the cabinet for the power ready and the PD center, I plan on running my electric and testing my circuits while I do it. I bought a 15 amp converter so I can run a wire to my power inlet and test with a house cord.

[jr9744]

I got some framing done today. I did not make the framing permanent yet because I just needed it to get an idea of where things go and how I can run power to my power center. I still have to put the osb walls back up and whatnot.

My goal tomorrow is to tackle that corner cabinet next to the bathroom so I can hook up the AC Cord and start running all the electric.

I still have to frame a wall for the right of the shower to tie it down. I also decided on a 24 inch cheap HD door on a track so I can slide the bathroom door open and close it. I still have to research the tracks, but it doesn't seem to hard.

Left side of the shower from inside


Behind the shower where the kitchen will eventually go


Added some more studs there so I can tie the shower pan down


Had to really research how to make the angle I needed. I think it came out o.k. I still have to cut a triangle to stick in the end of the two walls.


Full Shower View


Tomorrow I'll build the cabinets for the batteries, PD4045, Inverter, Charge Controller, Rocker Switch Panel, and anything else electrical that I will need to stuff in that corner.

I do need to figure out how much of a vent I need for those 4 batteries. If anyone knows, let me know. I figure I can buy a cheap vent panel from HD, or cut holes in the floor which may be easier and not so ugly.

[John61CT]

Any holes in the floor could allow poisonous CO to enter, should be sealed while traveling.

A small vent should be fine, make it the size of an 80mm computer fan in case you ever want to make it active.

[hankaye]

jr9744, Howdy;

Just so happens that there is a vent built just for that purpose.
http://www.valterra.com/product/battery ... hite-bulk/
A quick search will show you plenty of merchants eger to take your $$'s .

hank

[jr9744]

@hankaye, Thanks for the tip. I'll be ordering one of these vents from Amazon. I notice they also sell a back cone to couple with it, but not sure I need this. It made me wonder if the vent is to bring air in or take air out?

So I made some progress, so I'd figure I'd give an update.

I made the framing for the bathroom permanent so I could start the cabinet that will house all the power items:


Since I decided to have two levels of batteries, I just put slots as the shelf for air circulation:


Second set of batteries on the shelf:


I made another level with slots. But then I needed a shelf. My hacked up way to measure the shelf I needed:


Shelf made with power center on it:


Framing and shelving for power cabinet complete:


With the power cabinet ready, I started feeding the inlet wire to the corner:


Since I will be raising the bathroom floor, I just fed the inlet wire on the floor.


Inlet cord into the power center:


First wire out to first socket:


Hooked up to shore power with a 15 amp cord. I bought a 30 amp converter:



Testing the Power center and a socket to see if it works. It Worked!!


Finished placing the outlet and wire where I wanted, and tested. Still working.


I had to change the layout of the bathroom. The blank tank is easier to put in the side and not in the nose.


On a side note, I really like the Kreg tool. Made the framing easy. I've used the system enough so that I do believe the cabinets will be easy. If you can afford it, I would recommend buying it.

I plan on running all the AC sockets on the left side tomorrow. Then I will probably do the right side and finally a cord all the way to the back for the ac.

After this I think i'll raise the bathroom floor and work on the bathroom.

[Iconfabul8]

Lovin the pattern, thats awesome! Use what ya got and make it work! I do it all the time.