tony.latham wrote:Wayne:
I've done it both ways, and you're right, Steve's suggested method is weighty. I did it the lighter way in this little 4x8 I built for my sis.
I hope this is the answer to your question.
Tony
p.s. Make sure you've got plenty of room with your counter for the hatch's gussets.
1) The most obvious is that you reduced weight by using an inner curved ( 1/2" ?) plywood (male) lip instead of fully covering the inside sidewalls of the galley with 1/2" plywood. It may cost less too.
2) It also looks like your outside hatch rib gradually widens in the middle more than it does at the top and bottom, which would help stiffen the galley hatch. Steve Fredericks' plans, instead, have a somewhat similar wider in the middle hatch stiffener on the inside of the galley hatch. This looks like another way your design reduces weight and construction complexity.
3) You also have multiple horizontal inner hatch ribs instead of multiple vertical (fiddly to make correctly) curved inner hatch ribs. To my eye this looks easier to build (less construction complexity) and it may be less prone to construction errors that sometimes lead to do overs. It may also cost less.
4) I'd like to see a photo, or more detail, about how you weather strip the hatch. I'm unsure if your design creates an upper (female) socket for the weather strip like a Fredericks' design does. I'm guessing that your rubber weather strip will be used somewhat like an edge band at the interface of inside/lower hatch skin and outer ribs once you install the inside/lower skin to the galley hatch?
DWT77 wrote:tony.latham wrote:Wayne:
My concern with that was I was going to use my sidewall as a mounting surface for a slide out drawer. I am eventually going to mount a ARB freezer there and don't have a lot of clearance. I thought the drawer might hit the lip that creates. I can measure the clearance on the drawer slide maybe it will be greater than the 5/8" lip for the hatch seal.
?
Thanks for the help!
KTM_Guy wrote:DWT77 wrote:tony.latham wrote:Wayne:
My concern with that was I was going to use my sidewall as a mounting surface for a slide out drawer. I am eventually going to mount a ARB freezer there and don't have a lot of clearance. I thought the drawer might hit the lip that creates. I can measure the clearance on the drawer slide maybe it will be greater than the 5/8" lip for the hatch seal.
?
Thanks for the help!
There are some nice heavy duty bottom mount draw slides. They can be kinda spendy but could be an option.
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1960es wrote:Tony,
Thanks so much for your post advising the 3/4 inch plywood over the method in the plans. I am building the Rondack Lodge and this is my second build. My wife wanted a bigger teardrop.
I have welded up a trailer according to his plans, added the dexter axles, and completed the floor so I am about to tackle the walls. I love his plans so far. On my first build, I used ply for the walls and was really wanting to use ply for this one but was hesitant. So, seeing your advice is just the push I needed.
Thanks!
Eddie
Tony I like your galley design with the propane and pot storagetony.latham wrote:[img]My%20concern%20with%20that%20was%20I%20was%20going%20to%20use%20my%20sidewall%20as%20a%20mounting%20surface%20for%20a%20slide%20out%20drawer.[/img]
There you go, thinking this stuff out.
As you can see in this picture, I had to add blocking for the drawer slides.
Tony
That hitch bike rack is awesome!tony.latham wrote:That's my sis's four-wide. Here's our five-wide:
I'm in the planning stages of #4. It'll have a slide out 12" x 18" Partner Stove on the left (that'll come out at 90º). Below it, there will be the slot for the seven-gallon Reliance jug that is the same width. In between will be another drawer. Over on the right, the cooler will be on a slider and a larger drawer in between.
It'll look something like this:
I'll probably put a slide-out cutting board above the cooler.
Tony
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