Pop-up foamie for Cross-Canada trip

[dancam]

“ The supports are solid but i need to make shims for the sides to keep the wind from rocking the top around. “ … What about some thin rubber gasket material ? … or something like that ? Just an idea .

Maybe just hook you hold down straps on diagonals to form cross bracing?

Ok thanks, i will repost my previous stuff with photos like the last one when i have a minute, then you can see whats going on.

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[dancam]

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Ok, i edited post #60 and 67 to the end. Everyone said post #63 was fine, so is post #61-63 ok?
Thanks

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[me&z]

Thank you!

Great to be able see your build. Looks as if you've fixed everything posted after Aug 30th.

Love the headroom!

Oops:. Your pic showing the gap by the door (posted on Monday) is still big.

[dancam]

Well i attempted to apply 'the mix' last night. 5 hours and i had 2 coats on the insides, thats it. Took forever. 75/25 felt like i was just applying solvent, so i started with a coat of 60/40, then went back over it with a coat of 20/80.
This morning its obvious that there isnt enough on there. It should feel like the clearcoat on a car right?
Also hadnt realized that it just runs off if you try to apply it to something verticle, so that was a pain.
I plan to try and do the outside this saterday. Will probably do a coat of 60/40, then 40/60, then 20/80. See what that dries like. And the floor inside will need another coat of either 10/90 or straight urethane.
What took forever on the inside is all those stupid ribs and their end cuts.

Thank you!

Great to be able see your build. Looks as if you've fixed everything posted after Aug 30th.

Love the headroom!

Oops:. Your pic showing the gap by the door (posted on Monday) is still big.

Thanks

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[S. Heisley]

I can see the latest pictures!!! I can see you, standing inside, with the top up!!! Oh, Wow! Thanks for fixing it!

I'm not clear on what your problem is with worrying about the wind lifting the top off. I would think that good clamp locks in strategic places and maybe some strapping (Maybe ratchet straps to start with?) would solve that problem. But, then again, you are dealing with foam, which could make everything work a tad different.

Now, as far as air getting in....If air can get in, so can water, sometimes But, if the air space is like a vent, it might not cause a problem. Maybe try it with a small sample and a hair dryer on cool air to see? Weather stripping might help but the normal kinds might scrape off. I'm testing the type below on my lifting wall areas and have had fairly good luck so far. I say "fairly" because I didn't get a good attachment the first time I put it on and it slowly slipped off. But, I think I didn't clean the area well enough/still had some oil on the surface. The second fitting is working okay, so far...:

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Strippin ... +stripping

The above is for regular doors and windows without sills and is similar to garage door weather stripping; so, if you need something wider, take a look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... rage+doors

...Just a thought.

[dancam]

I can see the latest pictures!!! I can see you, standing inside, with the top up!!! Oh, Wow! Thanks for fixing it!

I'm not clear on what your problem is with worrying about the wind lifting the top off. I would think that good clamp locks in strategic places and maybe some strapping (Maybe ratchet straps to start with?) would solve that problem. But, then again, you are dealing with foam, which could make everything work a tad different.

Now, as far as air getting in....If air can get in, so can water, sometimes But, if the air space is like a vent, it might not cause a problem. Maybe try it with a small sample and a hair dryer on cool air to see? Weather stripping might help but the normal kinds might scrape off. I'm testing the type below on my lifting wall areas and have had fairly good luck so far. I say "fairly" because I didn't get a good attachment the first time I put it on and it slowly slipped off. But, I think I didn't clean the area well enough/still had some oil on the surface. The second fitting is working okay, so far...:

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Strippin ... +stripping

The above is for regular doors and windows without sills and is similar to garage door weather stripping; so, if you need something wider, take a look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... rage+doors

...Just a thought.

Can you see post #76 from sept 4? I went back and edited the older photos so they should be visible now. If you can see that post youll see the ratchet straps i have to hold the top down and why i need shims of some sort to keep it from rocking still.
With the air getting in, what part of the trailer are you referring to?
Thanks for the links to the weatherstripping

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[GPW]

Dan , Altering the mix affects it’s absorption. The “solvent” is the carrier that penetrates DEEP into the wood sealing all the little tubes. A thicker mixture just sits on the surface …

Since there are no rules here , you’re welcome to do anything the way You want , even if it’s not as effective as the time proven method . The 75-25 mix has been around for over 40 years , and has well proven it's worth …

[GPW]

“ This morning its obvious that there isnt enough on there. It should feel like the clearcoat on a car right? “ … Er, NO !!! The purpose is to SEAL the wood to slow/prevent water intrusion that eventually rots All wood. The test is to put a drop of water on the surface and if it just sits there and doesn’t get absorbed , then you’ve done your job . You can always add as much more as you want but the mix is just a well proven sealer /waterproofer ! It’s Not a finish coat eh !!!
It was originally used to waterproof corrugated cardboard model planes a long time ago. http://feltondesignanddata.com (page 3 @ construction tips ) That mere mention was much discussed and tested by many people ,over many years , everything from outdoor furniture to fenceposts. All still surviving.

Dan, if I could , we’d have big tanks of "the mix" with wood soaking in it .. internally plasticizing the wood … eliminating most any way for it to rot .. or be attractive to bugs too …

[dancam]

Dan , Altering the mix affects it’s absorption. The “solvent” is the carrier that penetrates DEEP into the wood sealing all the little tubes. A thicker mixture just sits on the surface …

Since there are no rules here , you’re welcome to do anything the way You want , even if it’s not as effective as the time proven method . The 75-25 mix has been around for over 40 years , and has well proven it's worth …

“ This morning its obvious that there isnt enough on there. It should feel like the clearcoat on a car right? “ … Er, NO !!! The purpose is to SEAL the wood to slow/prevent water intrusion that eventually rots All wood. The test is to put a drop of water on the surface and if it just sits there and doesn’t get absorbed , then you’ve done your job . You can always add as much more as you want but the mix is just a well proven sealer /waterproofer ! It’s Not a finish coat eh !!!
It was originally used to waterproof corrugated cardboard model planes a long time ago. http://feltondesignanddata.com (page 3 @ construction tips ) That mere mention was much discussed and tested by many people ,over many years , everything from outdoor furniture to fenceposts. All still surviving.

Dan, if I could , we’d have big tanks of "the mix" with wood soaking in it .. internally plasticizing the wood … eliminating most any way for it to rot .. or be attractive to bugs too …

I didnt quite understand how it was applied after reading the waterproofing your wood thread so i asked (post #142 there). I did something similar to what i think the only guy who replied said. Anyway, these were my questions there:

Just read through this thread and my first question was asked but not answered- what's your wait time between coats? or do you just keep rolling it on non-stop? Seems that with 4 different mixture ratios you would have different coats. So do you keep rolling on the 75/25 miture till it wont soak up any more and then wait for that to flash off before doing the 50/50 and so on? And if coating 1/8th plywood do you do both sides at the same time or do one side and let it dry, then do the other side so all the solvents can evaporate?
Second- for paint adhesion it looks like no one is sanding it, but is the satin, semi gloss or gloss urethane best for paint to adhere to later?
Third- flooring urethane was mentioned. All the floor urethane I have seen is interior, is that what was used?
Thanks

I understand all the mix ratios mentioned but not the application process. Im going to do the outside this morning so if you could help me understand it that would be great!
The inside was like 2.5hrs per coat so i didnt really want to do 4 coats since it shouldnt really see much water. But the outside needs to be done right.
Thanks.

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[S. Heisley]

I can see the latest pictures!!! I can see you, standing inside, with the top up!!! Oh, Wow! Thanks for fixing it!

I'm not clear on what your problem is with worrying about the wind lifting the top off. I would think that good clamp locks in strategic places and maybe some strapping (Maybe ratchet straps to start with?) would solve that problem. But, then again, you are dealing with foam, which could make everything work a tad different.

Now, as far as air getting in....If air can get in, so can water, sometimes But, if the air space is like a vent, it might not cause a problem. Maybe try it with a small sample and a hair dryer on cool air to see? Weather stripping might help but the normal kinds might scrape off. I'm testing the type below on my lifting wall areas and have had fairly good luck so far. I say "fairly" because I didn't get a good attachment the first time I put it on and it slowly slipped off. But, I think I didn't clean the area well enough/still had some oil on the surface. The second fitting is working okay, so far...:

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Strippin ... +stripping

The above is for regular doors and windows without sills and is similar to garage door weather stripping; so, if you need something wider, take a look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... rage+doors

...Just a thought.

Can you see post #76 from sept 4? I went back and edited the older photos so they should be visible now. If you can see that post youll see the ratchet straps i have to hold the top down and why i need shims of some sort to keep it from rocking still.
With the air getting in, what part of the trailer are you referring to?
Thanks for the links to the weatherstripping

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Okay, yes, I see them and that should help a lot. If wind comes up, it's going to sound like a bunch of didgeridoos, though. (I speak from experience. The wind will play those straps like bass guitar strings and it will be very noticeable, more so inside.) A trucker gave me a trip that helps, though. He told me to twist the straps like a licorice strip and it will cut the noise. He said that's what the truckers do.

As far as the gap goes, you could use some foam weather stripping but remember that wherever the foam weather stripping is a tight fit, it may peel off. Still, adding a foam strip on the inside edge of that gap, if you have room, (They make several sizes) would help keep down the back and forth action that you're writing about, as well as cushion the sides where they overlap/gap. The other weatherstripping that I mentioned would go along the bottom edge, with the flap part going inward to give you a decent seal against rain, etc. I don't think it would hurt the trailer to try it; and, if you aren't happy with it, all you'd be out is a wee bit of money. You might also try adding a thin strip of wood there; but, you know your build better than I, and would know if that would work. If there's room, precut door stop wood strips might be the key. (They make a couple different thicknesses and sizes of that, too.) Or, maybe just a strip of your thinner Styrofoam at the over-lap area?

I hope that all makes sense. Sometimes, it's kind of hard to explain just with words.

[me&z]

I seem to recall that someone was using or suggested using pool noodles as a gap filler. Not permanently installed but pushed into place after the top was raised.


Found it: http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=59418

It was pipe insulation, but same idea.

[GPW]

Outside ?? The mix is only for exposed wood ( or wood that might get exposed ) . Time betwen coats ? Depends on the weather eh ? ( dry to the touch ) The Mix ratio … there’s only one 75% MS-25% P ( others have invented their own ratios to suit their own sensibilities (?) ) … we’ve used it very successfully for many years …
The idea is Cheap Poly because it will soak Inside the wood ( Interior) and never see the light of day … Just a waterproofer , not a finish concern ( gloss or satin)

And then most wood will pe painted over after all that anyway … right?

Did you do the water drop test … ???

[dancam]

Outside ?? The mix is only for exposed wood ( or wood that might get exposed ) . Time betwen coats ? Depends on the weather eh ? ( dry to the touch ) The Mix ratio … there’s only one 75% MS-25% P ( others have invented their own ratios to suit their own sensibilities (?) ) … we’ve used it very successfully for many years …
The idea is Cheap Poly because it will soak Inside the wood ( Interior) and never see the light of day … Just a waterproofer , not a finish concern ( gloss or satin)

And then most wood will pe painted over after all that anyway … right?

Did you do the water drop test … ???

Yes, the inside of the tongue box will see some water, not sure how much but it will. I think i asked somewhere about weather bolth sides needed to be done or not and if so if they should be done at seperate times so it can evaporate better. Wood thats sealed on one side and not the other always seems to warp in my limited experience.

Yes, i realize now there is only one mix. I reread the waterproofing wood thread after your 2 comments yesterday. i mentioned that just now in the waterproofing wood thread.

I didnt, i just did another coat of the mix on the floor since im sure i didnt get enough on there the first time.



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[dancam]

I seem to recall that someone was using or suggested using pool noodles as a gap filler. Not permanently installed but pushed into place after the top was raised.


Found it: http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=59418

It was pipe insulation, but same idea.

Yup, thats our plan for if we use it when it gets real cold. For now that gap is our only airflow and were not looking to block it.

I can see the latest pictures!!! I can see you, standing inside, with the top up!!! Oh, Wow! Thanks for fixing it!

I'm not clear on what your problem is with worrying about the wind lifting the top off. I would think that good clamp locks in strategic places and maybe some strapping (Maybe ratchet straps to start with?) would solve that problem. But, then again, you are dealing with foam, which could make everything work a tad different.

Now, as far as air getting in....If air can get in, so can water, sometimes But, if the air space is like a vent, it might not cause a problem. Maybe try it with a small sample and a hair dryer on cool air to see? Weather stripping might help but the normal kinds might scrape off. I'm testing the type below on my lifting wall areas and have had fairly good luck so far. I say "fairly" because I didn't get a good attachment the first time I put it on and it slowly slipped off. But, I think I didn't clean the area well enough/still had some oil on the surface. The second fitting is working okay, so far...:

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Strippin ... +stripping

The above is for regular doors and windows without sills and is similar to garage door weather stripping; so, if you need something wider, take a look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... rage+doors

...Just a thought.

Can you see post #76 from sept 4? I went back and edited the older photos so they should be visible now. If you can see that post youll see the ratchet straps i have to hold the top down and why i need shims of some sort to keep it from rocking still.
With the air getting in, what part of the trailer are you referring to?
Thanks for the links to the weatherstripping

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Okay, yes, I see them and that should help a lot. If wind comes up, it's going to sound like a bunch of didgeridoos, though. (I speak from experience. The wind will play those straps like bass guitar strings and it will be very noticeable, more so inside.) A trucker gave me a trip that helps, though. He told me to twist the straps like a licorice strip and it will cut the noise. He said that's what the truckers do.

As far as the gap goes, you could use some foam weather stripping but remember that wherever the foam weather stripping is a tight fit, it may peel off. Still, adding a foam strip on the inside edge of that gap, if you have room, (They make several sizes) would help keep down the back and forth action that you're writing about, as well as cushion the sides where they overlap/gap. The other weatherstripping that I mentioned would go along the bottom edge, with the flap part going inward to give you a decent seal against rain, etc. I don't think it would hurt the trailer to try it; and, if you aren't happy with it, all you'd be out is a wee bit of money. You might also try adding a thin strip of wood there; but, you know your build better than I, and would know if that would work. If there's room, precut door stop wood strips might be the key. (They make a couple different thicknesses and sizes of that, too.) Or, maybe just a strip of your thinner Styrofoam at the over-lap area?

I hope that all makes sense. Sometimes, it's kind of hard to explain just with words.

Shoot, i didnt think of that. I know that sound exactly. Ill try twisting it and/or sticking something like a slit pool noodle over it so it cant vibrate.
Thanks for mentioning it

The gap is 1inch wide all the way around and the top overlapps the bottom by one inch. That 1inch overlap should keep out any and all rain. Do you think so or not? If not i just cut the verticle supports another inch shorter so it overlapps 2 inches. A 1inch gap is a bit big for weatherstripping but your right-shims will squeak. I think i will have to do some experimenting, so thanks for the ideas. I will try a few different things to see what works best probably after i finish this tongue box and doors. The foam would probably squeak too, hmm...



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[S. Heisley]

The gap is 1inch wide all the way around and the top overlapps the bottom by one inch. That 1inch overlap should keep out any and all rain. Do you think so or not? If not i just cut the verticle supports another inch shorter so it overlapps 2 inches. A 1inch gap is a bit big for weatherstripping but your right-shims will squeak. I think i will have to do some experimenting, so thanks for the ideas. I will try a few different things to see what works best probably after i finish this tongue box and doors. The foam would probably squeak too, hmm...

Okay, the 1" overlap may be good for keeping water out but cold air coming through the 1" gap could make it pretty drafty. But, that 1x1" overlap x gap may be to your advantage! This is because you can get 1/2" thick and wide foam weatherstripping. So, if you put a strip of that at the very top of the outside side of the stationary "box" and a strip at the very bottom of the inside side of the lifting "box" so that they meet like two fists knocking on each other or maybe touching but not scraping each other, it might work. Here's one that you could tack or glue on; but, you'd have to use a couple pieces to make your length:

https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-AC41W ... atherstrip

There are other types of foam weather stripping that don't scrape or make noise. The problem is that the sellers don't usually give all the measurements or they give them but don't say which is width and which is thickness. Your best bet may be to go to the hardware store and look. Your good fortune is that hardware stores usually restock this stuff in the fall; so, you should have a good selection of products to look at. Foam weatherstripping doesn't make much noise, if any, when it rubs. It isn't like Styrofoam. But, remember, if it rubs, it will likely come loose or even off.

Post script: There is one other kind that you might look at. It's expensive and you have to go to an RV supply store to look at it. It's used for pull-outs on RVs. I used it across the front of my lifting roof to give me a little extra protection from wind-driven rain. I had to tack it in on each end to keep it from wanting to come loose. That did the trick. It doesn't make scraping noises.