Joeb wrote:@Aguyfromohio So by changing the 2x2x1/8 to 2x2x1/16 or 14 gauge I will be okay with the strength correct? (Then my drilling would be easier also.) Also change the 4 cross members to 2x14ga angle. What if you added pads on the insides of the outer rails that had holes then you do not need to drill through 2 only 1.
Thanks!!
@swoody126 I see to add front stab jacks would help camping and not rely on the front jack. Also I never thought of the front pad interfering with the tailgate of a pickup truck. (Great idea) Also to make sure the vehicles do not hit each other thus making sure the tongue is out far enough.
Again thanks.
Joeb I can't certify your frame will be strong enough with the thinner material.
For all I know you will build a 5,000 pound cabin with granite counter tops and take it bouncing over rocks off-road.
But there are many discussion threads about this here you can read. Many say " Don't build like a battle tank, build like an airplane".
Many argue that the cabin makes the frame much stiffer and stronger once it's bolted to the frame.
I endorse both those views.
For our builds I was happy with 14 gauge 2 x 2, with 2 x 3 at 14 ga on the A-frame hitch members.
I had considered going down to 16 ga but my welder said such thin steel gets to be difficult to weld up, and the weight savings were negligible.
Our trailers are a bit longer and wider and taller than most true teardrops, and so we are fairly heavy as teardrops go.
We should be at about 1,300 lb total weight including the frame.
I'm still happy at 14 ga.
Next time I will take out most of the square tubes and replace it with angle to make screw holes far easier, probably 1/8 inch 2 x 2 angle, just about the same amount of steel per foot as 14 ga square tube.
I think you are on the right track with your changes.