DaddyJeep Crawler Hauler

[DaddyJeep]

I am new here and just starting out with the idea of building a camper. I have had plans for a couple years now to mount a pop up camper on the front of a car trailer so I can tow my Jeep and my camper at the same time. Thanks to all of the cool builds on here I have decided to take that thought to the next level and build a hard sided camper using parts scavenged from my pop up. I have been working on my design to maximize the space I have available on my trailer and have been doing a bunch of research on here to be sure I have a solid build plan. The construction will be a modified foamie of sorts. I plane on ripping the 2" foam into 24" or less widths and laminating the ends with 3/4" plywood for a little bit of strength. The drawing that I will attempt to attach will show the basic layout of things as well as where the plywood will end up. In addition to the 3/4" plywood I will be using 1/2" plywood on the top and bottom of the panels. I stretched my trailer almost 7 feet over the weekend, but I probably will not make too much progress on the camper until after the holidays. I encourage any feedback or questions on my build since there are a lot of knowledgeable guys here.

[jsnbergman]

I am new here and just starting out with the idea of building a camper. I have had plans for a couple years now to mount a pop up camper on the front of a car trailer so I can tow my Jeep and my camper at the same time. Thanks to all of the cool builds on here I have decided to take that thought to the next level and build a hard sided camper using parts scavenged from my pop up. I have been working on my design to maximize the space I have available on my trailer and have been doing a bunch of research on here to be sure I have a solid build plan. The construction will be a modified foamie of sorts. I plane on ripping the 2" foam into 24" or less widths and laminating the ends with 3/4" plywood for a little bit of strength. The drawing that I will attempt to attach will show the basic layout of things as well as where the plywood will end up. In addition to the 3/4" plywood I will be using 1/2" plywood on the top and bottom of the panels. I stretched my trailer almost 7 feet over the weekend, but I probably will not make too much progress on the camper until after the holidays. I encourage any feedback or questions on my build since there are a lot of knowledgeable guys here.

Goin to need some pics of the Jeep before I can condone this type of activity sir!

[DaddyJeep]

Goin to need some pics of the Jeep before I can condone this type of activity sir!

I can accommodate that request

An action shot from when it still ran.


This was before I tore it down for another drive train swap. It is getting Chevy parts this time. I just finished up building the fenders and stinger.

[jsnbergman]

Very nice! Its hip to be square. Carry on, looking forward to seeing the build come along.

[DaddyJeep]

Current status of the base. I still need to weld in the second main "I" beam on each side. I will then build out the deck to just shy of 8 feet with some angle iron.

[pchast]

Why so heavy?

[DaddyJeep]

Why so heavy?

The trailor was originally built out of a mobile home frame. It is not as heavy as it looks. The "I" beams are pretty thin, less than 1/8". I am continuing what was already done.

[working on it]

Why so heavy?

The trailor was originally built out of a mobile home frame. It is not as heavy as it looks. The "I" beams are pretty thin, less than 1/8". I am continuing what was already done.

If the trailer base was originally a mobile home frame, I'm hoping you ditched the axles/wheels for better equipment. Can't tell in the photo.

[DaddyJeep]

Why so heavy?

The trailor was originally built out of a mobile home frame. It is not as heavy as it looks. The "I" beams are pretty thin, less than 1/8". I am continuing what was already done.

If the trailer base was originally a mobile home frame, I'm hoping you ditched the axles/wheels for better equipment. Can't tell in the photo.

That is certainly on the list. The axles are fine, 6,000# Dexter axles, but the brakes and wheels will be updated before I make any long trips. The trailer was free and came with a title so I can't complain too much yet.

[DaddyJeep]

For all of you experts out there.... am I getting carried away with the wood? I am looking at other builds and even some that are as big as mine are using all foam. Thoughts...I am starting to get a little or maybe

[KCStudly]

You don't need 3/4 or even 1/2 inch thk splice ribs. The thickness of the plywood dosen't add any strength to speak of in that direction, it is the thickness of the wall, the "width" of the plywood splice pieces that determines how good they will be at adding stiffness (flatness) to the wall panel. Sure a 5mm (3/16 thk) slat of plywood is pretty floppy when you wave it around by itself in free air, but when you constrain it between two pieces of foam that prevent it from bending in the y-axis (thin way) and only apply side load on the wall in the x-axis (wind, a tree branch or somebody standing a ladder up against it), then that 2 inch width of ply acts the same as a 2 inch stick of lumber, stiff as a board.

Truth, you don't even need the slats at all. Leave the foam in larger sheets so that there are a lot less butt joints to cut, align, clamp, glue, scrape, sand, and repair after you sand into the foam too far (the foam sands so much easier than the wood, or even the glue, that it is very difficult not to over sand the foam).

Make sure you leave a fair amount of depth in the header over your rear door, as that will be your only "shear" panel there. I would look for at least 4 inches, 6 would be better. If you don't want the roof that high you could use a "slouchie" height door. You can also help gusset the wall to roof joint by building over head cabinets in along your side wall seating/bedding/kitchenette areas.

I'm not sure I understand your section diagrams. What is 4 inches thk? I'm very pleased with how rigid my walls are with 1-1/2 inch thk foam and 5 mm interior ply skins (even before adding the outside skin). I would think that 4 inches of foam would be excessive, unless you plan to do a whole bunch of sub-zero camping. If you are worried about the width and height of your front wall and being able to withstand wind pressure during travel, you could use a standard thickness wall and consider stepping up to a thin ply veneer, or just add a couple of foam ribs, like pilasters, covered with PMF.

The YJ looks like fun. Are you going LS or old school SBC?

[DaddyJeep]

You don't need 3/4 or even 1/2 inch thk splice ribs. The thickness of the plywood dosen't add any strength to speak of in that direction, it is the thickness of the wall, the "width" of the plywood splice pieces that determines how good they will be at adding stiffness (flatness) to the wall panel. Sure a 5mm (3/16 thk) slat of plywood is pretty floppy when you wave it around by itself in free air, but when you constrain it between to pieces of foam that prevent it from bending in the y-axis (thin way) and only apply side load on the wall in the x-axis (wind, a tree branch or somebody standing a ladder up against it), then that 2 inch width of ply acts the same as a 2 inch stick of lumber, stiff as a board.

Truth, you don't even need the slats at all. Leave the foam in larger sheets so that there are a lot less butt joints to cut, align, clamp, glue, scrape, sand, and repair after you sand into the foam too far (the foam sands so much easier than the wood, or even the glue, that it is very difficult not to over sand the foam). All the advice I was looking for. I would never not see the wood in the finished walls because of the sanding difference you mention.

Make sure you leave a fair amount of depth in the header over your rear door, as that will be your only "shear" panel there. I would look for at least 4 inches, 6 would be better. I had not considered that If you don't want the roof that high you could use a "slouchie" height door. The roof height is constrained by the door in my shop, I would love to go a couple inches higher, but it just won't fit. You can also help gusset the wall to roof joint by building over head cabinets in along your side wall seating/bedding/kitchenette areas. The green on my drawings represent cabinets. The kitchen, on the same wall as the bathroom, will have a base cabinet and overhead cabinet. In the corner by the door it will be a full height cabinet. Along the front wall there will be thin cabinet that will add strength for the fold out bed. This will probably be framed in with 6 or 8" plywood. The base to the couch will probably tie everything together as well.

I'm not sure I understand your section diagrams. What is 4 inches thk? I'm very pleased with how rigid my walls are with 1-1/2 inch thk foam and 5 mm interior ply skins (even before adding the outside skin). i would think that 4 inches of foam would be excessive, unless you plan to do a whole bunch of sub-zero camping. If you are worried about the width and height of your front wall and being able to withstand wind pressure during travel, you could use a standard thickness wall and consider stepping up to a thin ply veneer, or just add a couple of foam ribs, like pilasters, covered with PMF. The 4" piece was supposed to cap the end of the side wall and tie it into the front wall. Since none of the wood is necessary anyway, it doesn't natter much. All of the foam will be 2"

The YJ looks like fun. Are you going LS or old school SBC?Somewhere in between...old school SBC with TBI. It is a mid 90's truck motor.

Thanks for the reply

[DaddyJeep]

I did a little more work on the trailer. I made the trailer wider to support the 8 'width of the camper. I kept the framing 2" short so I have room to wrap the PMF underneath. Since I was building the framework I decided to design it so I can fully box it later to create tool boxes on both sides.

[DaddyJeep]

I have been steadily making revisions to the plan as I have been reading other builds and working my way through the "Big" thread. I am finding that the first couple hundred pages may be wasted time as many of the techniques have evolved since then, but it is kinda nice to read the process and all of the testing. Anyway, I am thinking that I am going to add a radius along at least the length of the camper and the front. I still have to determine the size of the bed fold out before I can determine how much radius I can fit on the front. I think the radius will add strength to the roof. I am also considering adding some stringers glued between the panels for the roof. I know KC mentioned that they wouldn't be needed, but that 8' roof span has me a bit nervous, especially of it spends time outside with snow on the roof. I may even use a larger radius on the inside so I can add some cool hanging holes like the "Foamstream". Finally, I just had to start visualizing the whole package so I brought in a drawing of my TV that is pretty close to scale and then had to throw some colors at it. The truck is a work in progress as well, but this drawing represents the final paint scheme of the truck so the camper should match I figured.

[DaddyJeep]

OK... the more I look at it the more I think it can be better.



This idea should at least help with cutting through the air. it will complicate adding a radius , but I like a challenge.